Hi, I am new to all of this. I have spent hours on this and other forums and I'm trying to learn as I go.


I have a 2006 F250 6.0. I have been told that it has been "basically bulletproofed" with the exception of not having a tuner. (That's something I would like to get this spring sometime.) At the time I was told this, I didn't actually know what that entailed. I do know I have had the EGR delete.


So basic question today: How do I figure out, without going back to the diesel mechanic, what has been done to my truck? Like, what kind of cooler do I have, do I have a coolant filter, where do I look to find the answers? (I'm sure "under the hood, dummy" is your first thought but where exactly, and what should I be looking for?) Also the head gaskets - I know they were "done," but is there a way I can tell by looking, what exactly they are?


I also bought a ScangaugeII yesterday and was able to play with it a little bit last night. I'm looking forward to learning about my truck. Please go easy on me, I'm just a mom who bought a truck to tow a horse-loving daughter around the state, and I didn't realize I had stepped into a whole new world.

 

Welcome to the forum! And to the 6.0! Bulletproofing isn't exactly what most people think and it can mean different things to different people. In my opinion there is NO bulletproof engine made. Anything mechanical can and will break. The 6.0 had a few weak spots that most people try to upgrade or at least keep a eye on.
Some of he main ones are the EGR cooler, oil cooler, high pressure oil pump, and head bolts. IDeleting the EGR cooler pretty much eliminates it as a weak point. The oil cooler can be upgraded to a pricier version from BPD but can still clog, it's just easier to change. A coolant filter helps prevent it from clogging. If your truck has one it is probably located on the passenger top side of the radiator with filter hanging from it and hoses coming out of it. As far as the HPOP goes, since you have a 05 more than likely you already have the better one that ford already put in. No way to see it unless you dig in the engine. I am in aware of any way to verify the brand of gaskets once they are installed. You can however verify whether or not you have the head studs as opposed to the TTY bolts by looking around the valve covers. If you google pictures of TTY bolts and ARP studs, many pics will show up and you wil see.
As far as a tuner goes, they can be good and bad depending on what you are pulling and how you are pulling it. I suggest doing a lot of research on the tuning and ask lots of questions. You can cause a lot of damage if you aren't careful. Check out FCIMrepair.com for tuning. The owner Ed is the expert. There is a wealth of knowledge in the tech folder of this forum as well and will answer a lot of your questions.
Good luck and welcome!!

 

Bulletproof is a broad term for sure. Most are looking at egr delete, head studs and new gaskets. Updated Stand pipes and dummy plugs, updated turbo feed line and drain tube, and new oem oil cooler. Most of these items are toward reliability. You also have upgraded alternators, ficmrepair ficm, etc. Just looking you can tell if you have headstuds, egr delete (unless stealth), updated turbo feed. Most of the rest you can't tell without tearing into it. Welcome to the club....you found the right place.

 

By the way, that scanguage is one of the best tools to help diagnose problems and keep an eye on the health of your engine. Wise investment!

 

Welcome to the forum. There is no better place to get the information you need. I'm new to the 6.0 as well, having just bought mine in October. It's too easy to spend a lot of money on unnecessary "fixes". Do your research, check out YouTube videos, read the articles in the Tech Folder, third sticky from the top in the main 6.0 forum page, especially the "New to me used truck" article.

Good luck!

 

You can stop by the Ford dealer and ask for an Oasis Report on the truck. It will show all the things that were fixed while under warranty. Need the truck's VIN number to give them.

Oh, post up a picture of your engine compartment for us. You will be amazed how much can be seen from a picture.

 

Welcome to our forum and 6.0 ownership! Just to agree with the others, the word "bulletproof" is sort of like "super" cleaner, or "turbo" mode on a computer. It Implies its better but isn't any real specification. To make matters a little more complicated there is also a company called BulletProofDiesel and you may see someone say the have a bulletproof part on their truck.

On top of the first page of this (6.0 diesel) forum is the Tech Folder. In there is a wealth of info and one thread specifically on what to do after buying your 6.0 truck. Monitoring temps and pressures and preventative maintenance is key to keeping it running well. You did good to pick up the ScanGaugeII it works well as a monitor.

The coolant filter should be easy to spot. Almost all of them use a spin on filter (like a common oil filter) and will usually be mounted near the passenger side battery toward the front of the truck and often bolt on the stud that holds the radiator in place. Head studs are a little tougher, a couple of the large bolts will be visible on each side of the engine. With stock bolts you simply see the head of a bolt, with the preferred head studs you'll see a nut over a threaded stud. A few threads will be visible above the top of the nut. Head gaskets are even tougher but there is a visible tab sticking out between the engine block and cylinder head I believe on driver side front and passenger side rear. It may be possible to see a number using a flashlight. As far as oil cooler, it's completely covered up by the oil cooler cover (top front of engine). Same with the updated standpipes an dummy plugs, STC fitting, and blue fuel pressure regulator spring. All good stuff but not visible once they are installed. It may be worth a stop by the shop that did the work to get a rundown of what has been changed or may still need to be done.

Good luck with the new (2u) truck.

 

Thanks to all for the info and the warm welcome. I will stop by the dealership and ask for an Oasis report the next time I'm in that town. I did take a couple of pictures as suggested - not sure what everything is besides the batteries. Unfortunately I don't know much about the trucks history, where any work was performed, etc.

When I was taking pictures, I noticed something that looked off. The cold air intake looks like it's come undone. This should be attached with the little metal clamp, yes? (Bear with me while I figure out pictures)

 

 

Hey, this was kinda fun, sorta like a test of sorts

1st pic- blue thing with blue hoses and Sinister etched on top is the coolant filter. I see the correct (short) oil filter cap and I believe a (preferred) fairly new 140amp alternator. (Is it a dual alternator truck?) The drive belt looks like it's rubbing on something (check the edges) and it looks like maybe belt dressing slung from the belt on the front of the engine. Not sure what the yellow wires are near the back, top. Maybe it was holding up the long plastic piece across there. The holes look to be intact and the little plastic "tree" push rivets are available from the parts store for a couple of bucks. Sneaky little red wire under positive battery connector, and the wires are spread out on the glowplug controller like someone has been messing with them.

Pic #2- more rigged up wiring I don't like the looks of. Coolant and brake fluid are both pretty dark. And as you mentioned, intake tube is off between the filter and turbo. Need to get that fixed quick, your engine is breathing unfiltered air. Not liking the aftermarket air filter set-up. The hose that loops by the radiator and stops at the silver thing in front of the driver side battery is the (non factory) sender for a remote fuel pressure gauge. A big plus, no sign of degass bottle overflowing or any attempt to hide it if it was.

Pic #3- same as #2

Pic#4- not seeing anything much here. Pretty fresh CAC boot and clamp (blue hose behind alternator). Good shot of the hanging plastic piece I mentioned earlier, just needs plastic rivets to put it back where it goes. Yellow wire disappearing into the drivers side end of it is suspicious. Standard size pully on alternator, a smaller one makes more power at an idle if you have a need for that, like if you'll be idling truck to run lights while loading horses etc.

Pic#5- yup, get that hooked up right away.

Overall, not too bad unless I missed something, no major issue that caught my eye.

 

Welcome to FTE, plenty of knowledge right here and no question is too dumb unless it's "do I run gas or diesel fuel"

Just a couple things to keep in mind.
Change the oil every 5000 miles, religiously. This engine loves clean oil and because of the way it is set up, does not like extended oil changes. Most folks here will tell you run a good diesel grade 5W40 synthetic oil like Shell Rotella T6 or Delo 5W40 synthetic. Always specify diesel rated oil.
Change your fuel filters, both top and bottom, every 10000 miles or every other oil change. You will keep your injectors happier that way.

Don't let all the 6.0 terms and stuff scare you and don't hesitate to ask!
Like Rusty mentioned, get that hose clamp back on so it's breathing clean air, no need to dust the turbo.
I would also add it would be a good idea to get the wire loom back up where it belongs, it's the long piece in the first pic that looks like it was tied up with yellow wire. That way it's not sitting on the turbo and getting warmer than it needs to.