1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Oh No! Head Gasket??

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  #31  
Old 03-16-2016, 01:04 PM
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Mix Man, I have a new radiator and hoses and will soon have a new water pump. There still could be a lot of debris in my engine given its age and history--ever after flushing. I just didn't think too much about having accumulated "gunk" in my engine because the 45 year old antifreeze came out looking so good. A coolant filter is probably a good idea. I'm just not sure I could justify the expense given the limited use my truck will see--Maybe for my daily driver it is something to think about.

I do for sure need to have a coolant recovery system of some sort. Thanks for you interest and help.
 
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Old 03-16-2016, 07:02 PM
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I'm not real familiar with the 215's (had one 30+ yrs ago). Where did you drain it? At the radiator? Is there a block drain?

Part of the problem with all these engines is that they lay back to the rear at a 3-degree angle. On the V8's, there is no block drain at the rear, so even if you pulled the water pumps, there is still almost an inch of fluid at the rear. That's exactly where all the sludge accumulates due to gravity. The only way to get that junk out without a drain at the rear is to have the heads off and stick a pressure washer down into the block. It's unbelievable what comes out!
 
  #33  
Old 03-16-2016, 07:46 PM
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Ross, The radiator drain was "stuck", so I just removed the lower radiator hose and let the antifreeze drain into a pan. Looking back, that was pretty lame. I didn't attempt to do any type of flushing. I do remember though marveling at how bright green the antifreeze still was as it drained out. My Dad must have changed the antifreeze (and oil) in his truck sometime after he stopped driving it. It was last licensed in 1967.

The guy flushing the system tomorrow said he had a machine he uses, and his process will involve chemical cleaners. I guess I'm not too sure how effective he will be at getting into the recesses of the block. The guy is kind of a friend now (my truck spent about a year in a back corner of his shop) and I didn't ask a lot of questions. Probably I should have.

I drove the truck to the shop this afternoon for tomorrow's appointment. It was about a 15 mile trip. I replaced the radiator cap because someone suggested I should and because I wanted my friend to see the radiator cap pictured in this thread. Interestingly, new deposits did not form this time, but the radiator didn't overflow either after the engine was shut down.
 
  #34  
Old 03-21-2016, 04:44 PM
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It took a few days for the water pump to arrive, but it is installed now and the cooling system was flushed. The radiator cap was also replaced. The mechanic that worked on my truck was fairly certain that the head gasket is not leaking. That is a relief! I ran the truck for about 30 minutes and everything looked good--no sludge on the cap, and the antifreeze still nice and bright green. Even after 30 minutes running time, however, the radiator never got very hot--I'm thinking maybe there isn't a thermostat, or if there is one it is possibly stuck open.

Just for my information--what do you think a water pump should cost? Mine came from a local independent auto parts store and it was expensive!

Thanks again everyone for your interest and help.
 
  #35  
Old 03-21-2016, 04:59 PM
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Not going to venture into the cost of the water pump. But, try removing the radiator cap while the engine is cold and start it. If the thermostat is stuck open or missing, you'll see coolant circulation soon as the engine starts. If the thermostat is working, you will not see significant circulation till the engine warms and the thermostat opens.
Edit: Just noticed that you're in Wisconsin. If temperatures are freezing or below, it will take a long time for an engine to warm up enough to open the thermostat.
 
  #36  
Old 03-21-2016, 08:28 PM
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Raytasch, thanks for the thermostat tip. I'll check out my coolant's circulation tomorrow. Spring came early to the Northwoods of WI this year, but it still usually gets below freezing at night--good maple syrup weather.

I think i saw on line that a water pump could be ordered for about $40 plus shipping. I paid much more, and I'm not sure why. Is what I saw on line maybe not a quality unit?
 
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Old 03-21-2016, 08:41 PM
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Prices are all over the board on parts for these old vehicles. I have a friend in TN who paid three times the going price for a MOPAR steering component. NAPA told him it was a special order and thought they could get it.
 
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Old 03-21-2016, 09:39 PM
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My 215 runs cold. When it is mid 30s or below the heater in the car will cool the engine at idle, the thermostat doesn't open at all until I drive the car.
 
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