Hi all, this issue is referring to cold starting and running on a Motorcraft 2150.

On cold morning the truck starts no problems but wont run on its own, I have to continually blip the throttle until its warm at which time it runs like a dream.
Everything checks out, no leaks or issues.

If I set the fast idle screw too far in, it starts and runs ok but really frikkin fast and drives on its own - yikes, if I set it where I think it should be, it wont run on its own until warm. I cant get the fast idle screw to sit on the V-notch either, the manual says to turn the Allen adjustment screw but no diagram to show what this is - any idea?

 

you didn't mention if the choke is closing properly??

 

Yup, seems to be working OK. It's getting power, only 6v though. When warm its all ok so i assume the choke works? Again, I'm kinda lost even reading books and forums so if you have any ideas.

 

the power is to warm up the choke so that it opens when the engine warms up...and factory voltage comes from the stator of the alternator, so it is actually an AC signal...so 6 volts measured on a DC scale is normal... Before a cold start you should be able to see the choke blade mostly closed.

 

Yup, the choke blade is mostly closed when cold, I do see this...and the fast idle screw sits on the cam next to the v notch

 

Before starting cold, are you pressing the pedal all the way to the floor once to "load the choke?" As soon as the engine is running and you press the gas pedal even a little bit it will automatically kick out of the highest idle setting, even if the engine is still cold. There are 3 different settings on the fast idle cam and the only way to get it to the highest idle location is when the engine is shut off and cold (When adjusted properly).

 

Here are the directions I used to adjust my motorcraft 2150. Mine was an automatic choke where yours is an electric choke, but I imagine most of the linkage to the fast idle cam is probably the same.

Credit for the below information goes to the original poster "FMC400"

This is going to be a long one. But I want your problem to be fixed. Read up.

Instead of experimenting trial-and-error with the float level, only set it to the factory specification. If you do that and you still have problems, the problem is elsewhere. You can't mask another problem by compensating with the float level.

Since the carburetor is already on the engine, check the wet height of the float. Start the motor and let it run until it's at operating temp, and remove the air horn from the carburetor to expose the fuel bowl. Measure the distance from the center of the fuel level to the top machined surface of the fuel bowl, and this is the wet height. The rebuild sheet will specify what this height should be. If your measured height does not match the specified height, you must remove the float, bend the tang, and start over. Don't forget to snap the float retainer in place when you replace the float.

Be careful when you remove or bump the float, as fuel will spray out of the needle. Also be careful when doing this check, because you have an open fuel source and a running motor. Do this step correctly, and we can take the float out of the picture. Don't waste your time playing guessing games when working with carburetors. Take the time to do things right and do them once, and you won't have problems.

Here is how you take care of the choke and fast idle issues. Once again, proper procedures dominate shade-tree trial-and-error time and time again. Please read my instructions carefully.

Choke pulloff clearance. When you get in any carbureted vehicle to start it first thing in the morning, you push the gas pedal once to "load the choke." This snaps the choke plate shut all the way. Because it's just a spring, its job is to tighten itself. It can't accurately control "how much" it tightens. If we just let the choke pull the choke plate all the way shut when you first start the motor, there will be no way for air to get into the engine. Therefore there is a "choke pulloff" which serves to slightly open the choke plate against the choke spring tension, just enough for air to pass in. The vacuum created by the starter cranking the motor pulls the pulloff diaphragm and lets that first sip of air through.

To adjust the choke pulloff, the motor must be cold and shut off. Loosen the 3 choke cap retaining screws and rotate the choke 90 degrees toward the back of the truck to completely shut the choke. Then, find the choke pulloff vacuum motor on the rear passenger side of the carb. There is an arm coming out of it which actuates the choke linkage. Press the arm all the way in to simulate vacuum pulling the diaphragm, and the choke plate should open slightly. In your rebuild sheet will be a "pulloff clearance" specification and it will be something like 3/32" and such. You must take a drill bit of this size and insert it between the rear of the choke tower and the back-end of the choke plate, to measure how far it is open. It acts like a feeler gauge. There is a small set-screw in the back of the choke pulloff. If your pulloff clearance is not to specification, you must adjust that screw and start the procedure over.

Fast idle index. While the choke is engaged, there is a mechanism to raise the idle above curb idle because the enriched fuel mixture requires the engine to run at a higher RPM. There are two settings for this - fast idle speed, which controls engine RPM during this time, and fast idle index - which controls how much of the choke engagement time that the linkage actually contributes.

When things are functioning properly on a Motorcraft 2V carburetor, there are 3 stages to startup - start, fast idle and curb idle. A small cam on the passenger side of the carburetor has 3 steps and controls this. When you first start the truck and you load the choke in the morning, the engine starts at its highest possible RPM and the throttle linkage is on the first step of the cam. When you bump the gas pedal again, the fast idle linkage is released and allowed to drop, at which point the throttle linkage is on the second step of the cam. The throttle linkage remains on this step of the cam for the entire length of time the choke is opening. Once the choke is completely open, the cam drops out of the linkage completely and the carburetor returns to curb idle. This is where the engine remains for the rest of the driving until the engine cools down again the next morning, and the process starts over.

To properly idle during warmup, it is imperative that you sync your choke with the fast idle cam. Again, there is a factory procedure for this. If you're with me so far, your choke cap is still rotated 90 degrees from when you were setting the choke pulloff clearance. Here is where to go from there:

1. If the choke isn't rotated toward the back of the truck already, do so now.
2. Open the throttle, and hold it there with one hand.
3. With your other hand, push the choke pulloff rod in all the way, the same way you did in the pulloff clearance procedure. The choke should now be open in the pulloff position.
4. Your other hand is still holding on to the throttle. Let go of the throttle, so that it rests again.
5. Now the important part. Look down at the fast idle linkage, underneath the choke cap on the passenger side of the carb. There is a small cam above the throttle shaft. You will see a small V notched onto the second step of the cam, and you will see a long screw with its tip touching the surface of the cam. The tip of this screw must be aligned perfectly with this V. This is the measurement Ford uses to tell you that you've set the fast idle index properly. If it is not aligned with the V, there is a small hex screw on the plastic fast idle arm in the linkage. You turn this to adjust the index. Each time you adjust this screw, you must start this procedure over and check for alignment.
6. Note that anytime you adjust pulloff clearance, you must adjust fast idle index. This is why I had you check the clearance first, before doing this procedure. Make sure one thing is right before you move on to the next.

This configuration gives the following results: when you first start the engine, the idle is high. Once you get out of your driveway and start driving while the engine is still warming up, the idle is still high, but not as high as when you first started it. Once the truck is warmed up completely, the choke is open and the idle returns to normal.

Fast idle speed. Once your fast idle cam is properly aligned, you must adjust the speed at which the engine idles when the fast idle is engaged. You will notice that under fast idle, the throttle plates are open further. I usually adjust this to allow the engine to run at a 200-300 RPM higher than curb idle. Contrary to most of my statements in this post, this adjustment can be trial-and-error provided the linkage is working in the first place.

Choke cap index. If you're still with me, the choke cap is rotated toward the back of the truck. Now you must align it properly. On the rim of the black choke cap is a small notch. On the metal choke housing to which it attaches are seven notches. The goal here is to align the notch on the cap to one of the seven notches on the housing. Going from the back of the truck toward the front, the notches are represented as 3 Rich, 2 Rich, 1 Rich, Index, 1 Lean, 2 Lean, 3 Lean. On the emissions label attached to your hood or valve cover, it will say which notch to align the choke to. If your label is long gone, 1 Rich is usually a safe ball-park figure. This adjustment is often changed during winter and summer season changes. While you're doing this, this is a good time to make sure the choke spring is properly engaging the choke linkage tang inside the housing, as this is often overlooked during a carb rebuild. Once you have the choke cap aligned, tighten the three retaining screws back down.

If you follow the procedures above, your choke and fast idle will be set properly. Like I said before, proper carburetor performance comes from closely following proper procedures, not making guestimates. Ford engineers marked these carbs with all sorts of notches and numbers for a reason - so that they may be tuned properly.

 

Yup, loading the choke and NOT touching the pedal, starts OK then bogs and dies

 

subscribed for future. Thanks

 

My motorcraft 2150 on my 302 still doesn't run the best at first start up either. I have issues with it dying at stop signs etc. when cold and the only way to prevent it is to increase the idle speed and then by the time the engine gets warmed up it idles way too fast, in the 1100 to 1200 range.

My choke and fast idle cam operates flawlessly and I've checked initial timing and the idle mixture screws, both of those are fine. My only guess now is to run a compression check and see if the motor isn't building compression. I rebuilt both heads so the only way it wouldn't be is if it is slipping past the rings and I hope that is not the case. I understand your frustration as this issue gets quite annoying.

 

Its easiest to nail down the fast idle cam settings with the carb off the truck in my opinion. Toss it on a work bench and its much easier to adjust and see what your changes do to it. You just gotta remember to account for the changes in choke and what the gas pedal and everything else will do to it as well.

Once you're done bench setting it, toss it on the truck and make final checks.

 

Thanks, followed the instructions, starts better and idles ok. cheers

 

So today I went to start the truck. Started right up and then died a hideous death on its own. I thought turning the fast idle screw a turn would make a difference but after driving the truck to get warm (around the block) it stayed on high idle. I started tweaking again and buggered it up completely. Now I'll need to wait until its cold and start again. However, given the instructions above how do I do this section below? What is it that's adjusted?

Fast idle speed. Once your fast idle cam is properly aligned, you must adjust the speed at which the engine idles when the fast idle is engaged. You will notice that under fast idle, the throttle plates are open further. I usually adjust this to allow the engine to run at a 200-300 RPM higher than curb idle. Contrary to most of my statements in this post, this adjustment can be trial-and-error provided the linkage is working in the first place

 

I am checking on the voltage at my electric choke for a factory carb. I come up with 12 volts and I know I am supposed to have only 6-7. the following is from another thread from MikeoOoOoO-


"If you try to get a voltage reading using the DC scale of your VOM it'll read something like six or seven volts."


The choke is plugged into the factory plug which is on the firewall under the hood, passenger side, a two prong rubber plug, mine has one wire coming out on the male side and it goes to the choke. What am I measuring wrong? I believe I am reading the meter correctly.


Also I have read that the anti diesel solenoid was plugged into this harness. Would that be 6 or 12 volts?


Thanks

 

My question is I have a fuse labeled (choke) in the fuse block inside the cab.....when I check voltage on this fuse with key on engine off I read 12 volt's on both sides of the fuse while checking voltage on the wire under the hood to the choke spring cap I get no voltage with the key on engine off.

I have read this wire get's AC voltage from the "S" stator terminal on the back of the alt.

If so does this wire come from the back of the alt. to the fuse block then back out thru the wiring harness to the choke spring cap.....and how would I check voltage and what should it read ??