More Electricity
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From: AZ
More Electricity
1983 F100 302, AOD. I am looking to get more amps. I have installed two 12 inch fans on the outside of the condensor to assist with the A/C. If I have the A/C on and the lights I lose the directionals at idle at a stop light. I have tested the out put and it drops dramatically at that idle sped. May I get a different voltage regulator or do I need a different alternator? My local supply does not have anything bigger than the 65 amp. If I put in one with more, do I need to make any other changes? Where may I find a larger one.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
An alternator is only capable of sustaining its rated output.
Run it higher than that for long, the diodes will fail and the windings will short when the insulation melts.
I'd be looking at a more efficient fan.
You could search this forum for '3G alternator upgrade'
Run it higher than that for long, the diodes will fail and the windings will short when the insulation melts.
I'd be looking at a more efficient fan.
You could search this forum for '3G alternator upgrade'
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From: AZ
I am using the fans to cool the condensor. In AZ we get up to 115 in the summer and the A/C would not operate as the pressure would build too high. I will have to look for an alternative.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Houston
Only thing I could advise is look into a 3G alternator upgrade. I cant remember which car but theres a car you can get the alternator from that is a straight bolt in. Just transfer your current pulley and shim it with a thin washer and youll be good to go.
I currently don't need it but my stock truck you come to a idle you actually can hear the A/C or Heater fan actually slow down at full idle. But its doable and not worth spending extra cash at this point for this upgrade when the only upgrade I have is two 40ish Watt LED flood lights mounted up front.
I currently don't need it but my stock truck you come to a idle you actually can hear the A/C or Heater fan actually slow down at full idle. But its doable and not worth spending extra cash at this point for this upgrade when the only upgrade I have is two 40ish Watt LED flood lights mounted up front.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: Northeast Ohio USA
Only thing I could advise is look into a 3G alternator upgrade. I cant remember which car but theres a car you can get the alternator from that is a straight bolt in. Just transfer your current pulley and shim it with a thin washer and youll be good to go.
I currently don't need it but my stock truck you come to a idle you actually can hear the A/C or Heater fan actually slow down at full idle. But its doable and not worth spending extra cash at this point for this upgrade when the only upgrade I have is two 40ish Watt LED flood lights mounted up front.
I currently don't need it but my stock truck you come to a idle you actually can hear the A/C or Heater fan actually slow down at full idle. But its doable and not worth spending extra cash at this point for this upgrade when the only upgrade I have is two 40ish Watt LED flood lights mounted up front.
I had a '97 Ranger 2.3l which i used for volunteer fire/ems and ran an old school rotator lightbar, siren, etc. which caused huge power draw. I consulted a fairly large LKQ wrecking yard locally and they cross-referenced a higher amp alternator which was "plug-n-play". It might be worth a phone call or two.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Houston
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
If you need the 7" C-C mount for Windsor engines they come from the 3.0l V-6
For 4.9 and 460 engines get the 8.25" mount from the 3.8.
Taurus, Sable and Aerostar I believe...
For 4.9 and 460 engines get the 8.25" mount from the 3.8.
Taurus, Sable and Aerostar I believe...
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From: Virginia
Something simple you could do is increase the idle speed on the carb. When I first put the snowplow on my old f150 it would not pick the plow up at idle. I just turned the idle up a little bit and it worked fine from then on.
This would also make your A/C work better in that hot weather. Just don't turn it up too high where it really slams hard when you put it in drive, or you have two feet on the brake pedal holding it back at a stoplight. Just a little bit is probably all you need.
This would also make your A/C work better in that hot weather. Just don't turn it up too high where it really slams hard when you put it in drive, or you have two feet on the brake pedal holding it back at a stoplight. Just a little bit is probably all you need.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: Northeast Ohio USA
Something simple you could do is increase the idle speed on the carb. When I first put the snowplow on my old f150 it would not pick the plow up at idle. I just turned the idle up a little bit and it worked fine from then on.
This would also make your A/C work better in that hot weather. Just don't turn it up too high where it really slams hard when you put it in drive, or you have two feet on the brake pedal holding it back at a stoplight. Just a little bit is probably all you need.
This would also make your A/C work better in that hot weather. Just don't turn it up too high where it really slams hard when you put it in drive, or you have two feet on the brake pedal holding it back at a stoplight. Just a little bit is probably all you need.
No readjusting the carb when you d/c the plow for the summer months either. I'd imagine that if you are into babysitting your carb, this would be a viable option, or a band-aid on a severed arm.
More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 566
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From: SC
It isn't "theory", it's a method of dealing with the known low RPM low-charging propensities of Ford 1G and 2G alternators. Easily proven by use of an ammeter. These days many alternators are controlled by the powertrain computer. One of the computer strategies is to raise engine idle RPM's (withing limits) during periods of high electrical power draw. Even with with earlier fuel injected systems where the alternator wasn't under direct computer control idle could be raised on demand due to power draw.
For years people have co-opted AC throttle "kickers" for the same purpose.
Turning up the idle a bit with a screwdriver is simply the stone age equivalent.
I used to have an '83 and equipped it with a 100 amp "large case" 1G alternator. Which helped nothing. The maximum amp rating of an alternator doesn't help with low RPM charging. It wasn't until the introduction of the 3G when Ford really rectified the low RPM charge issue.
Heh, rectified. Yep.
For years people have co-opted AC throttle "kickers" for the same purpose.
Turning up the idle a bit with a screwdriver is simply the stone age equivalent.
I used to have an '83 and equipped it with a 100 amp "large case" 1G alternator. Which helped nothing. The maximum amp rating of an alternator doesn't help with low RPM charging. It wasn't until the introduction of the 3G when Ford really rectified the low RPM charge issue.
Heh, rectified. Yep.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
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From: AZ
Something simple you could do is increase the idle speed on the carb. When I first put the snowplow on my old f150 it would not pick the plow up at idle. I just turned the idle up a little bit and it worked fine from then on.
This would also make your A/C work better in that hot weather. Just don't turn it up too high where it really slams hard when you put it in drive, or you have two feet on the brake pedal holding it back at a stoplight. Just a little bit is probably all you need.
This would also make your A/C work better in that hot weather. Just don't turn it up too high where it really slams hard when you put it in drive, or you have two feet on the brake pedal holding it back at a stoplight. Just a little bit is probably all you need.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
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From: AZ
With the truck in drive and the parking brake on, I turned on the A/C, lights and a directional. I then got 12.8 volts at the battery. This is significantly lower than normal, but with a 12 volt system shouldn't that be enough?
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Houston
12.8V is the nominal battery voltage with no alternator output. 12.7V to 12.8V is what a battery should have fully charged with no loads on.
My truck I believe is like 14.2V at idle but I never checked it with things like headlights on or A/C on. Thing is though the voltage shouldn't change with load the amperage is what should change. Unless I am thinking incorrectly on it but the alternators job is to provide more than 12.7V to run the vehicle as well as maintaining the battery. Then the battery is used to remove ripples from the charging system since an alternator produces A/C current which when rectified via a rectifier bridge results in not a smooth DC pattern.
I personally could idle my truck up some as its right above 500 RPM with A/C on its right on 500 RPM, but the thing is though when idled up the brakes really make you work on stopping at the level I have it at now it stops great. Can actually lock the wheels up pretty easily. this is why I would go upgrade route with a 3G vs idling the truck up.
My truck I believe is like 14.2V at idle but I never checked it with things like headlights on or A/C on. Thing is though the voltage shouldn't change with load the amperage is what should change. Unless I am thinking incorrectly on it but the alternators job is to provide more than 12.7V to run the vehicle as well as maintaining the battery. Then the battery is used to remove ripples from the charging system since an alternator produces A/C current which when rectified via a rectifier bridge results in not a smooth DC pattern.
I personally could idle my truck up some as its right above 500 RPM with A/C on its right on 500 RPM, but the thing is though when idled up the brakes really make you work on stopping at the level I have it at now it stops great. Can actually lock the wheels up pretty easily. this is why I would go upgrade route with a 3G vs idling the truck up.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: nw pa.
12.8V is the nominal battery voltage with no alternator output. 12.7V to 12.8V is what a battery should have fully charged with no loads on.
My truck I believe is like 14.2V at idle but I never checked it with things like headlights on or A/C on. Thing is though the voltage shouldn't change with load the amperage is what should change. Unless I am thinking incorrectly on it but the alternators job is to provide more than 12.7V to run the vehicle as well as maintaining the battery. Then the battery is used to remove ripples from the charging system since an alternator produces A/C current which when rectified via a rectifier bridge results in not a smooth DC pattern.
I personally could idle my truck up some as its right above 500 RPM with A/C on its right on 500 RPM, but the thing is though when idled up the brakes really make you work on stopping at the level I have it at now it stops great. Can actually lock the wheels up pretty easily. this is why I would go upgrade route with a 3G vs idling the truck up.
My truck I believe is like 14.2V at idle but I never checked it with things like headlights on or A/C on. Thing is though the voltage shouldn't change with load the amperage is what should change. Unless I am thinking incorrectly on it but the alternators job is to provide more than 12.7V to run the vehicle as well as maintaining the battery. Then the battery is used to remove ripples from the charging system since an alternator produces A/C current which when rectified via a rectifier bridge results in not a smooth DC pattern.
I personally could idle my truck up some as its right above 500 RPM with A/C on its right on 500 RPM, but the thing is though when idled up the brakes really make you work on stopping at the level I have it at now it stops great. Can actually lock the wheels up pretty easily. this is why I would go upgrade route with a 3G vs idling the truck up.
If you don't know something is wrong.
Check your belt tension. Idle speed should be set to factory specs. Check your electrical connections at the alternator and voltage regulator if you have an external one. Failing that take it to an auto parts store and have them run a full system test on your electrical system there is usually no charge at Advance Auto.