I've been Thinking about putting an E4OD back into my truck.

I'm currently running 180/100s with a D66 1.0 w/ no intercooler on Gearhead tunes through a ZF5 running a stock clutch.

The truck pulls HARD and runs just like I want it too, although I seem to be running out of gear really quick. Speed shifting this tranny just doesnt work.

I dont see myself wanting to push anymore power than what Im running right now.

Im not going to drop $4-5K on a trans. I dont care what color its painted.

Basicly, I need a TC, VB and what else?

Anyone running Alto Red Eagles and like them? They are cheap but I havent heard many good things from them in the drag circles around me. My other choices are Raybestos/BW set up or Raybestos H.E. Stage 1s with Kolene steels.

 

Racer X sells some good stuff.

 

If you don't plan on drop 4-5k then stick with the zf. There's more to a built auto that'll a T, VB and some clutches and from the way it sounds that you run your truck a basic build won't hold up.

 

Yea yea. I need billet this and billet that.

 

You don't need billet ****. You need machine work done in the trans.

 

Remember you came here asking. I answered.... So if you want to take a chance on trashing 1500+ in parts go for its your money.

 

This is news to me. What kind of machine work? I didnt mean to come across as an ***. Just seems like people spew the same opinions across the forums. "I only recommend so and so's stuff. everything else is junk"

 

Some of the hard parts get worked. Exactly what and how much I'm not sure. That's why they are 4-7k

 

This is a hard subject to discuss. There are many misconceptions and misinformation. I am far from an authority but have been building autos for 20 years or so mostly on the side. I am in the planning stages of an attempt to make a usable e4od for my turd. I have studied and so far billet parts are far from the ultimate cure. Some stronger hard parts are nessary in certain circumstances and there are other upgrades not billet. The machine work is secret and only the inventors know about that. They don't let that stuff out so us poo boys will have to muddle through without.
I have read and discussed with several people that do NOT recommend red eagles. Genuine Borg Warner seems to be what the big name builders use as well.
The other big thing discussed in many places is valve body tuning. Proper line pressure , engagement and release timing is paramount over billet Ching Ching across all references I find.

Clear as mud yet?!?!

If I get to mine it will be documented what gets done and if I can make it live...if I can I have a feeling I'll have plenty of friends to help out...lol

 

This is exactly what I though. I don't drag this truck not even 4-5 times a year, but I do like to get on it from time to time. I'm not hard on my truck. Costs too much money if you go ***** to the walls all the time.

In my mind, if I'm pushing 400hp(maybe) then there is no need for billet this and that. A good TC, quality clutches and the proper valve bodies should cover the big items. A 6 planet gear set is a good idea and updating to a hardened shell is too. Cryo treating the drums and planetarys would help too.

I'm not harping on JW but with all the billet parts and machining that seems to go into his tow master I have no idea why he only rates that trans for 450 horse. Those billet components should be able to withstand well over 1500ft. Lbs.

I've a built a few of these transmissions but haven't ever gone further than just putting a shift kit in them performance wise. Just a typical rebuild. No one around me seems to know jack **** about beefing these up. I guess Brian isn't too far from me but I doubt he'll let too many secrets if any out of the bag.

Maybe a 4R100 isn't a bad idea either.

 

Get some manuals to read. ATSG is good. If you want to go deeper. Use the Ford service manuals. Look on evilbay for them. You will have plenty reading to do.

Some machine work hints.

You can machine the pressure plates to squeeze more frictions and steels to packs.
Machine and shim the center support. You can get the parts from Sonnax Sonnax recommends one stabilizer ring. You can use two by machining each face of the center support.

Tighten up the low/reverse clutch pack clearance. You can go with thicker steels, or a friction and steel with some machine work.

Billet input shaft. Yes you need billet here.

Most important. Make sure the tranny case is good. De burr all the lugs. You will see where the steels dig into the case.

Make sure the case is not warped by checking it with a straight edge across the pan rail.
Check the valve bodies too.

As fore a shift kit. Follow the instructions on the box. If you use TransGo, drill the holes small first.

If you get a hold of a pre 95 case or a an unknown rebuild. Make sure the front pump has the number F5. Better yet, just get a new (rebuilt) F5 pump. Get ready to shell out some $$$ for this from Ford.

After replacing all the hard parts. Machine work, a good converter and shift kit. Plus some misc expenses, like a 4R100 tranny pan. You should be around $3500 bucks in the hole.

 

Ive got ATSG manuals and have access to Ford Manuals from working at dealerships in the past.

I've heard of the machining of the plates to fit more clutches and steels. Ive got access to all those machines. Hadnt heard of the Center support shim but saw the shim on the sonnax site. Was wondering what that was all about.

I know all about warped cases too.... Spent 3 days chasing a no-shift when hot problem on one couple years ago. Took that transmission apart more times than I want to think about.



Going to call Raybestos tomorrow and talk about their H.E. packs with Kolenes. Cant seem to find anyone local that is a distributor.

Really been thinking about just grabbing a 4R100. Cant seem to find any consistent information about that swap though. Some say you need to re-pin the main harness for a SD PCM some say its a direct swap, Some say its impossible. General consensus is that the Solenoid pack needs to be swapped to a '96-'97 NPWM along with the front pump. Seems to be more of an aftermarket for the 4R100 than the E4OD.

Thanks for the reply. This was exactly the kind of information I was looking for.

 

Or you could find a dude who wants a ZF that has a brand new JW and trade them.

 

That would be perfect!

Too Bad youre so far away.

 

Here's an interesting article on billet vs cast and forged parts:

Billet versus Forged