Tie rod replacement
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 343
Likes: 5
From: Plumsteadville PA
Tie rod replacement
I am in the process of replacing a stuck caliper and some worn out ball joints. I ordered the moog kit that includes ball joints and all the tie rods http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...packagedeal012 I already have the ball joints in and I am getting ready to tackle the tie rods. Are there any real good detailed videos or links that you guys know of for that project? I understand the concept of what I need to do but wouldn't mind comparing notes with a someone who has already completed the job to avoid road bumps.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 872
Likes: 18
From: Jasper, Mn
I haven't personally done tie rods myself, but I have had them all removed from the truck before and that part is a pretty simple operation as I'm sure you know if you have done ball joints.
If you are replacing everything I would remove them all from the truck, set up the wheel to wheel and tie rod to pitman arm tie rods on the ground, then bolt them up to the truck. By setting them up I mean putting them together with the sleeves to the approximate correct lengths.
If you are only replacing the tie rod ends, and not the sleeves, then again, I would remove the whole thing from the truck and replace one end at a time while on the ground so you don't get confused or lose track of a length or something.
I have always had good luck counting threads to get the tie rods close to the same spot, so that's the method I would recommend, but really any decent measurement method should work. No matter how you do it, get it aligned when you are done.
Those are just my thoughts.
Baatzy
If you are replacing everything I would remove them all from the truck, set up the wheel to wheel and tie rod to pitman arm tie rods on the ground, then bolt them up to the truck. By setting them up I mean putting them together with the sleeves to the approximate correct lengths.
If you are only replacing the tie rod ends, and not the sleeves, then again, I would remove the whole thing from the truck and replace one end at a time while on the ground so you don't get confused or lose track of a length or something.
I have always had good luck counting threads to get the tie rods close to the same spot, so that's the method I would recommend, but really any decent measurement method should work. No matter how you do it, get it aligned when you are done.
Those are just my thoughts.
Baatzy
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
Likes: 24
From: Damon (South East Texas)
I have found a few rare occurrences where the thread length on a tie rod end was different; skewing the "counting" method. I always measure from the grease fitting (center of ball socket) to the adjustment sleeve, or the opposite side center (total length, C-C). Counting and measuring will gain the best results. I never had an alignment done on my truck. I used to do alignments about 30 years ago with a Snap On bubble type caster/camber gauge. I used a level and tape measure to check mine after doing ball joints and it was "good to go" after a toe-in adjustment. 
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 343
Likes: 5
From: Plumsteadville PA
Thanks guys. That's kind of what I had in mind. Pop the old ones off and lay them on the work bench so I can make the new ones match. Any concerns when I disconnect or reconnect the pitman arm? I read something where a guy was talking about wrapping the seatbelt around the steering wheel? I guess to keep it from spinning? Is it it easier to do the tie rods with the truck on stands or on the ground? I still have the two ends off while I'm reassembling the wheels
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 872
Likes: 18
From: Jasper, Mn
Don't disconnect the pitman arm, just disconnect the tie rod from the pitman arm. You could use the seat belt to hold the pitman arm in place if you wanted but it really shouldn't move much if at all.
Baatzy
Baatzy
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