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Why not bypass a lot of these questions and buy a manual? Originals are avail on eBay all day, reprints are not expensive and pics as well as diagrams are great ( although the reprint photos are terrible- originals are clear )
All of the wiring will be the same except: The 8 ga yellow (now red here) will need to be routed opposite of stock (don't forget, 12v- ground vs. 6v+ ground ) otherwise charge will show discharge It is Hall effect as stated earlier, no contact ... the flow of electrons effects the needle through magnetic forces beyond my need to explain The voltage drop goes between the power from ign source and the temp guage (normally black/ green tracer- no idea on this harness).
That device is case grounded ( edit: I think... Mixer man has DC newer style w/ 3 wires) and will power all the gauges via the bus-bar , it is not a resistor but a S S electronic voltage reducer/regulator similar to units used on clusters all the way through toe eighties
Good luck and keep at it
I have a manual, this is my first time with a project of this size. And since the manual is for the standard 6v pos grn, I wasn't sure And the advise has been great and lessons learned from others an incredible resource.
The manual does help though.
That device is case grounded ( edit: I think... Mixer man has DC newer style w/ 3 wires) and will power all the gauges via the bus-bar , it is not a resistor but a S S electronic voltage reducer/regulator similar to units used on clusters all the way through toe eighties.
Good luck and keep at it
Nope. Mine is not case grounded, hence the blue wire. From Dennis Carpenter.
This is how it should be for 12v negative ground. Note that the fat 8 AWG wire passing through the ammeter pick up is fully insulated. The ammeter utilizes the Hall Effect to operate instead of a shunt.
Also notice that there is a voltage reducer for the other gauges. You don't want to push 12 volts through a 6 volt gauge.
ok, I purchased the same electronic voltage reducer, it wasn't cheap, but now I get 6v on each gauge when switch to accessory side of ignition switch, and something like .56v when on ignition start side??? wired the same.
Do you still have the cluster on the bench? Is the case grounded? The power supply wire to the voltage reducer is just one wire attached to the GA / ACC terminal of the ignition switch.
ok, I checked all the wires and cleaned up a couple. I believe I have 6v on accessory and start ignition positions. Now I'm not sure if all my gauges work, as my fuel didn't move, and battery stays in the middle (?).
I'll check everything tomorrow, I've rewired the gas device line.
I spent today rewiring and checking the wires. I can't seem to get 6v out of the electronic voltage reducer???
In the picture, I get 12v to the red wire.
I get less than .5V out of the blue wire.
I checked the ground, I have a good ground from the engine block and frame. I even wired a ground directly from the battery to the cluster...
here's the one I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151296050494?item=151296050494&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
That appears to be wired correctly. Make sure the case of the reducer, or anything else for that matter, isn't touching those bus bars on the gauges. You also might have some current loss in that fuse, what size is it? There isn't a fuse there in the OEM wiring. Your black temporary ground wire looks like it might be undersized for the load too.
ok, I spent another couple hours going through the electronic reducer. I took apart the cluster and cleaned all the contacts and sanded down contact points.
I've found it only seems to work (though the voltage is 6V out of each gauge connector point until I hook them up then it bounces and isn't very consistent) when I hook it up like in their diagram (attached). Which is not the way I see it connected in your picture?
I'm going to try 3 individual V drops on the gauges now to see if that works better.
I hope to get this behind me so I can connect more to it.
I think what I see is that you have un-protected power to the ignition switch. The two center lugs on the circuit breakers are not protected. That shouldn't affect what you're doing now but it's wrong for operation.
What do you mean, "I hope to get this behind me so I can connect more to it."? The voltage reducer is only capable of supplying the 3 gauges, nothing more.
I think what I see is that you have un-protected power to the ignition switch. The two center lugs on the circuit breakers are not protected. That shouldn't affect what you're doing now but it's wrong for operation.
What do you mean, "I hope to get this behind me so I can connect more to it."? The voltage reducer is only capable of supplying the 3 gauges, nothing more.
Sorry, I meant more to the cluster, i.e. lights, etc. via the other connections.
And I added a 5AMP in-line fuse on that line between voltage reducer and the ignition switch
03-06-2016, 08:51 AM
And the advise has been great and lessons learned from others an incredible resource.
