77 ford f150 gauges not working help
#18
My dash lights worked every so often but I needed them to work. So I bought all new stuff and did the job. The circuit board in stock form isn't quite perfect. One of the inner bulb holders when tightend properly doesn't make contact with the circuit board so you have to loosen it slightly. I only found this out after putting everything back together and only half the dash lights worked😀
#20
Well the circuit board connects to all gauges and also snaps onto the voltage stabilizer which is also on the backside of the cluster. Not sure as to the ground but I assume it is part of the main connector that plugs into the back of the cluster.
#22
How I would check the ground connection: Remove cluster, take a look at your plug. Look at location # 9 on the plug, it should have a black wire running to it. This is the cluster ground. Connect a continuity meter to one end of the # 9 terminal on the plug. Connect the other end to a clean metal surface on the dash, or run a wire to the - side of the battery. If you get a 0 reading, your ground for the cluster is good. No reading, you have ground problems. If you have ground problems, time to start tracing that black wire in the harness. Or cut & splice that black wire to a good ground, like clean metal on the dash. Since you have some dash lights working, I'd say your ground is most likely good.
Thinking about it, but without my wiring manuals to double check, I believe the gauges ground individually, thru the sending unit. Oil & water in the engine block, fuel back at the tank area on the frame.
Have you checked your fuses????
Have you removed the wire from the temp sending unit & run a wire from it to a good ground such as the - battery terminal?? Turn the key on & see if your temp gauge moves. If it does, sending unit is most likely bad.
Thinking about it, but without my wiring manuals to double check, I believe the gauges ground individually, thru the sending unit. Oil & water in the engine block, fuel back at the tank area on the frame.
Have you checked your fuses????
Have you removed the wire from the temp sending unit & run a wire from it to a good ground such as the - battery terminal?? Turn the key on & see if your temp gauge moves. If it does, sending unit is most likely bad.
#24
#26
#28
ID number: D3TF-10C956-AA = Ford part number: D3TZ-10K843-A .. Printed Circuit Board-Use with Oil/Amp Gauges / Obsolete
Applications: 1973/74 F100/350.
D6TZ-10K843-B .. Printed Circuit Board-Use with Oil/Amp GAUGES / Marked with ID number: D6TF-10C956-BA / Obsolete
Applications: 1976/79 F100/350; 1976/91 Econoline; 1978/79 Bronco.
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E1PZ-10848-A .. Instrument Panel Cluster Back-Use with Oil/Amp GAUGES / Obsolete - Available NOS
Applications: 1981/91 Econoline, retrofit: 1976/79 F100/350; 1976/80 Econoline; 1978/79 Bronco.
This was the Ford "service part replacement" for the 1976/80 POS composition cluster back that can TURN TO DUST before your very eyes!
#30
Bigbluedent,
The ground you are looking for is directly forward of the gauge cluster. It should be a ring terminal screwed to a narrow vertical web of sheet metal, with a black wire leading from it. Mine was rusty, so I disassembled and cleaned it up. I posted this on the "Electrical Systems/Wiring" forum, it might help and it is a cheap fix (always nice)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...9-f-150-a.html
The ground you are looking for is directly forward of the gauge cluster. It should be a ring terminal screwed to a narrow vertical web of sheet metal, with a black wire leading from it. Mine was rusty, so I disassembled and cleaned it up. I posted this on the "Electrical Systems/Wiring" forum, it might help and it is a cheap fix (always nice)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...9-f-150-a.html