5.4l 3v Expy running issues
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I tested my cops with my multimeter, 5 of my coils read out at .8-1.0ohms of resistance the remaining cops range from .5-.7 I am assuming the higher reading cops ate my good cylinders and the other are fine basically only to idle. After I cleaned all the junk up and water and dirt inside the tunnels I'm going to tell you she idled smooth and on all 8 until I went to move her out of the driveway then she started stumbling and running on maybe 6 cylinders
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From: Georgia
I tested my cops with my multimeter, 5 of my coils read out at .8-1.0ohms of resistance the remaining cops range from .5-.7 I am assuming the higher reading cops ate my good cylinders and the other are fine basically only to idle. After I cleaned all the junk up and water and dirt inside the tunnels I'm going to tell you she idled smooth and on all 8 until I went to move her out of the driveway then she started stumbling and running on maybe 6 cylinders
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From: Georgia
That thread is for a coil pack not a cop. But someone replied with the testing procedure for the cop's.
Or read below.
The haines manual says for the Coil over plug that the Primary resistance should be 0.55 ohms and the secondary resistance should be 5,500 ohms. To test it disconnect the electrical connector from the coil assembly and connect an ohmmeter across the primary (+) terminal and the negative terminal. The resistance should be as listed above. Then remove the COP from the engine. Connect an ohmmeter between the secondary terminals (the one that fits over the spark plug). The resistance should be as stated above.
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I tested mine with the wires and springs off,I will retest with them on and hope for a more certain 1.8 reading. By the springs not being on could be throwing my reading off. I will retest and see. Will be visiting the yard today to get a few "right now" replacements to hold me over until I can replace them all with new.
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From: Georgia
I tested mine with the wires and springs off,I will retest with them on and hope for a more certain 1.8 reading. By the springs not being on could be throwing my reading off. I will retest and see. Will be visiting the yard today to get a few "right now" replacements to hold me over until I can replace them all with new.
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From: Georgia
I've been researching in the coils some today and all to expand my personal knowledge. From what I've found, testing the coils with a ohm meter is a static reading/results. The readings may be right, but during operational loads, the coils don't perform as they should.
Thought I'd share this todbit of info with you.
Thought I'd share this todbit of info with you.
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Well ironically enough I stumbled upon a 2v truck with all brand new coils, I swear they have never been fired. Slightly made different than the 3v but seem to work just fine if positioned right because the plug in placement is slightly different but works none the less.
Now with all good coils and good stiff springs and excellent boots she is idling soooo smooth but....
Under moderate load she stumbles and misses on a couple cylinders but will drive around fine as long as you're not trying to "quickly" get out of someone's way.
I was hoping for an easy enough fix with coils and springs but I am wondering now if I do in fact need to bite the bullet and pull these 200k mile spark plugs....
Now with all good coils and good stiff springs and excellent boots she is idling soooo smooth but....
Under moderate load she stumbles and misses on a couple cylinders but will drive around fine as long as you're not trying to "quickly" get out of someone's way.
I was hoping for an easy enough fix with coils and springs but I am wondering now if I do in fact need to bite the bullet and pull these 200k mile spark plugs....
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From: Georgia
Lucky find! Is it tossing any codes? As for the coils, I personally didn't know they were any different between the 2v and 3v? And absolutely change the plugs. If you can stand it, put some money into a good set of plugs. It won't be as bad as you think, Id just be sure to have the broken plug tool before you tackle the project. Hopefully you get lucky and they all come out easy.
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I could be wrong, but I think the main difference between the 2v coils and the 3v coils are the rubber boots and springs. Buy a new set of those, and you're good to go. The 2v ones are angled, and if you bend it to fit in a 3v, the boots probably won't last long before they crack and in worst case short out a coil.
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No codes at the moment I will try and drive it some, it needs some fuel I'm going to throw some premium in it and try and get some carbon build up cleared up. Plus I need to get a few miles on it and hope for a code so I have direction. But i will be taking the hot engine approach in removing the plugs.
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I disagree. I just had a coil go out on my 2000 f250 5.4l. Boot was in great shape. No detoriation. No discoloration. I've never seen or personally heard of anyone I know having a boot go bad. Typically the coils die. My dad has a 2000 f250 5.4l as well, and has had a coil completly die aswell. Replaced that one. And all others are still stock (close to 200k miles on them. And the second motor they've been on)
I agree.....Ive replaced 6 of my 8 coils so far and every one had a decent boot.....the cops went bad(usually btw 125k to 190k)...spend the extra 30 bucks and change the whole kit and caboodle......that way you wont always be wondering
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Update, after some driving with high octane and sea goam, pb blaster in the tunnels days ago. Hot engine extraction with a 3/8 impact gun I successfully removed all 8 ford factory 200k mile plugs with ease