Electrical PLEASE HELP!
New User
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 12
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I'll try to remember to bring home my wiring schematic book from work today... it's for 2000 model year super duty/excursion but should be similar. I believe your truck uses a GEM (generic electronic module) located behind the interior fuse box...the GEM controls many if not all of the interior functions you mentioned were acting up.
There is a spot where wires go through the firewall on the driver side, above the PCM, and a cover should be in place, but on one of our work trucks that cover was missing and water intrusion caused some corrosion on the connectors at the back of the fuse box...just something you might want to check.
There is a spot where wires go through the firewall on the driver side, above the PCM, and a cover should be in place, but on one of our work trucks that cover was missing and water intrusion caused some corrosion on the connectors at the back of the fuse box...just something you might want to check.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
I'll try to remember to bring home my wiring schematic book from work today... it's for 2000 model year super duty/excursion but should be similar. I believe your truck uses a GEM (generic electronic module) located behind the interior fuse box...the GEM controls many if not all of the interior functions you mentioned were acting up.
There is a spot where wires go through the firewall on the driver side, above the PCM, and a cover should be in place, but on one of our work trucks that cover was missing and water intrusion caused some corrosion on the connectors at the back of the fuse box...just something you might want to check.
There is a spot where wires go through the firewall on the driver side, above the PCM, and a cover should be in place, but on one of our work trucks that cover was missing and water intrusion caused some corrosion on the connectors at the back of the fuse box...just something you might want to check.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2016
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Ok didn't even think about that. Is that essentially what they do to repair those parts when you send it in to that shop on the East Coast?
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New User
Joined: Jan 2016
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I checked with a local computer repair shop here and they said they couldn't (or wouldn't) do it. I have limited computer repair shop options here and they said it would have to be done by machine. I call Bs, but back to the drawing board on that front.
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Joined: Jan 2016
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Got home from work and started messing with the OD switch. Pulled the end off since I ordered a new one anyway and found two of the wires had nicks in the insulation. Though cool I'll keep the plug off, plug it back in, and try to see if them not shorting on the tube worked to keep everything up.
Batteries have been unhooked all night.
Started the truck with new fuse in #35 slot and everything was on and working perfectly. Thought "AWESOME" it was the switch the whole time. Wires were just screwed in the tube portion!
Tried the driver window switch, worked. Tried both the driver and passenger side, fuse blew. Unhooked the batteries again, replaced the fuse, hooked them back up, pulled the fuse, it was shot already. Put another fuse in, heard a click from behind the guage cluster as that fuse blew. Does this mean it is my battery switch and the only reason it worked was because the batteries were off over night? Thanks in advance.
Batteries have been unhooked all night.
Started the truck with new fuse in #35 slot and everything was on and working perfectly. Thought "AWESOME" it was the switch the whole time. Wires were just screwed in the tube portion!
Tried the driver window switch, worked. Tried both the driver and passenger side, fuse blew. Unhooked the batteries again, replaced the fuse, hooked them back up, pulled the fuse, it was shot already. Put another fuse in, heard a click from behind the guage cluster as that fuse blew. Does this mean it is my battery switch and the only reason it worked was because the batteries were off over night? Thanks in advance.
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New User
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Abbotsford
Sounds like a short in the interior lights to me, remove the cluster and unpin (or cut the wire if you prefer and fix it later) Pin2 of connector c220c Black/Light Blue wire. If the fuse still blows, it's in the cluster. If it doesn't it's a short in the interior light system.
Diagram and identification of the plug in this post:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-override.html
Diagram and identification of the plug in this post:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-override.html
New User
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 12
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One more thing, visually checking wire basically tells you nothing...the copper under the insulation can be corroded green, or even split in two and you would never know it!
Best bet is to find the ends at a connector, unplug, and check with a light that draws some current (I use a brake bulb with running light terminals soldered together to draw the most possible out of it). If the wire checks out good, then you can start to isolate by sending 12v power and ground with it plugged in/working switches, etc...
Sometimes a sewing needle comes in handy to probe in the middle of the wire somewhere to get a better idea where your problem may be, but can also give an entry point for moisture so choose wisely lol. Then either splice out that section or just overlay the entire thing.
My 2000 book will be no help if your truck uses the VSM, ran into the issue on one of our 04's and I was wondering when the change was made, like another member mentioned must have been around 02.
Best bet is to find the ends at a connector, unplug, and check with a light that draws some current (I use a brake bulb with running light terminals soldered together to draw the most possible out of it). If the wire checks out good, then you can start to isolate by sending 12v power and ground with it plugged in/working switches, etc...
Sometimes a sewing needle comes in handy to probe in the middle of the wire somewhere to get a better idea where your problem may be, but can also give an entry point for moisture so choose wisely lol. Then either splice out that section or just overlay the entire thing.
My 2000 book will be no help if your truck uses the VSM, ran into the issue on one of our 04's and I was wondering when the change was made, like another member mentioned must have been around 02.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
One more thing, visually checking wire basically tells you nothing...the copper under the insulation can be corroded green, or even split in two and you would never know it!
Best bet is to find the ends at a connector, unplug, and check with a light that draws some current (I use a brake bulb with running light terminals soldered together to draw the most possible out of it). If the wire checks out good, then you can start to isolate by sending 12v power and ground with it plugged in/working switches, etc...
Sometimes a sewing needle comes in handy to probe in the middle of the wire somewhere to get a better idea where your problem may be, but can also give an entry point for moisture so choose wisely lol. Then either splice out that section or just overlay the entire thing.
My 2000 book will be no help if your truck uses the VSM, ran into the issue on one of our 04's and I was wondering when the change was made, like another member mentioned must have been around 02.
Best bet is to find the ends at a connector, unplug, and check with a light that draws some current (I use a brake bulb with running light terminals soldered together to draw the most possible out of it). If the wire checks out good, then you can start to isolate by sending 12v power and ground with it plugged in/working switches, etc...
Sometimes a sewing needle comes in handy to probe in the middle of the wire somewhere to get a better idea where your problem may be, but can also give an entry point for moisture so choose wisely lol. Then either splice out that section or just overlay the entire thing.
My 2000 book will be no help if your truck uses the VSM, ran into the issue on one of our 04's and I was wondering when the change was made, like another member mentioned must have been around 02.
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|
New User
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 14
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Since I've been slammed at work and my wife has been bugging me, I broke down and called Ford and brought it in to them. They charged me $135 and tested a bunch of the components for me and determined it's the cluster. :-( Already put my order In with CBM and should have the cluster out and shipped tomorrow. Thank you for all of the help but unfortunately, electrical just isn't my thing and I felt like I would be pulling more hair out. Figured for $135, it was worth it with my work schedule right now. I'll let you all know if it gets fixed once back and installed next week. Thank you for all of your help on this one, fellas!
Problem is, I thought this was going to be my solution and now it does not. My gut tells me there is a short since Ford tested the fuse block and it tested out ok. Someone also mentioned the GEM as a potential issue but not sure what that is or entails. Any additional odeas would be appreciated. Thanks!
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 330
Likes: 15
From: Greenville, SC
dkrimetz,
We've been tracing this down further since the fuse didn't blow on our test stand or even on our test truck here. Have you replaced the bulb in the dome light recently by any chance or had any problems with the dome light?
We've been tracing this down further since the fuse didn't blow on our test stand or even on our test truck here. Have you replaced the bulb in the dome light recently by any chance or had any problems with the dome light?