Without measuring I am just guessing but my hunch is that the 3-5 would work just fine.
Air bags are good way to go for towing.

 

Without measuring what? Is there another (more definitive) measurement I can to take other then the one I did to determine actual lift height? Cary had asked me to measure the shock height from bolt to bolt, and was not even interested in the measurement discussed here?

I was also thinking that the rear air bags might help dissipate some of the "stiffness" in the ride coupled with the ability to control ride height and manage tongue weight when towing.

 

He asked you to measure the distance from bolt to bolt to determine the static length of the shock at ride height, you can then compare that to the compressed and extended length of the new shock to make sure it is not to long or short based on the axles movement.

But if you don't know the axles movement range and your shocks are not bottoming or topping out then you could just take off a shock and measure its collapsed and extended length ( E-C= shocks travel ) and compare those specs to the shock you are considering. ( manufactures list the lengths )

Air bags will not dissipate stiffness. air bags are springs, putting air in a air bag increases the spring rate. Spring rate is what holds up the weight of the vehicle and its load.. The more weight you have the more spring rate you need to hold that weigh. In an air bag because it is adjustable you can increase the spring rate beyond the current load and that causes the air bag to lengthen which in turn will raise the vehicle ride height. But doing so will then require hitting a given bump on the road with more force to compress the spring as well as need more shock valving to control the movement. The goal in suspension design is to use the lowest spring rate required to support a given load.

Shocks control the speed at which the spring can compress or extend by forcing oil through a valve. The more valving you use the slower the spring can compress. The general result is a firmer ride but less comfort. It is a simple concept but a tricky balancing act between ride quality and handeling

That is a basic overview of springs and shocks but hopefully give you a starting point to work from.

 

Before you buy shocks : Are you thinking of keeping the current springs ?? Remove the 2 front shocks & see if they are wasted or working well ?? With 3" or so lift in the front you should not be hitting the bump stops on every little bump in the road.

 

Fwiw, Even somebody experienced with suspension setup isn't going to jump to the "soften it up" conclusion until that suspected front end bottoming out issue is resolved.

 

Just doubling back on this topic "AGAIN" as I am ordering some 5100 shocks all around right not on Amazon, as well as a steering stabilizer.

In this thread we figured out I have approx 3 in of lift on my Ex, in looking at the selections of 5100 bilsteins, there is an option for 3-5in suspension lift shocks for the rear, but not that option for the front- only 4-6in lift? If I order 4-6in lift shock will these work or will the shock be overly compressed?

I do plan on installing some new leafs front and rear soon (but am reeeeeally trying to get my 65 stang on the road by summer so money has been funneling that direction) and probably rear air bags so I can see the lift amount increasing an inch or two, will the 4-6in lift shock be "ok" for now?

 

I'd say your going backwards... IF you have a 3" lift up front(you did not post your measurements) if I'm recalling correctly, AND you are bouncing off your bump stops now. IF you put on 4-6 longer shocks It would seem like recipe for BLOWN shocks very quickly. IMO

 

Hey Harley, yeah I measured a little while back and posted the measurements, it appears according whom you talk to (based on stock suspension ride height), I have at best a 4in. lift f/r, or possibly a 3in lift...... the measurement of the front/back was the same at around 26 1/2 or just a hair less so I said 26 1/4 which tells me the rear is sagging a bit.

I do plan on replacing the springs at some point, but would like to do the shocks first too see how much the ride improves, if that makes sense... or will be putting air bags in the back for towing, either way I will be increasing the ride height a bit so I imagined buying the 4-6in. shock gives me a little room for "growth".

 

on the front I can not tell you with any confidence that the 4-6 will fit as I have not done it.

either order the non lifted ones for the front and replace them when you make spring changes or if you want to chance it buy the lifted ones and find out.

 

OK SORRY I did not remember nor did I go through the thread looking for them. I'l still stick with my same thought. I'm with PC. I think your close to 3" up front (which means the spring have already been replaced) . I'd try to find out what they are. 3" up from stock & still hitting the BS does just not seem correct to me ( unless your jumping RR Tracks ). However hitting the BS does seem to be the consensus SO going to a 4-6 with springs that are hitting the BS for what ever reason seems to be to tight & could end with blown fronts. Have you pulled the current shocks as to know their current condition ?? I did not think so.

 

Ahh yes, the beauty of ambiguity...

Well, it seems that this "3in. lift" puts me in no mans land I guess? Not stock, and not quite 4-6in. lift, well maybe then I get new leafs first to raise it up to 4in. or better, and can get the corresponding shocks and be done, but this in itself opens up a whole other box, much like another fellow member currently has with trying to get his lift sorted out.

Can I move up to a 4in. lift whilst not dramatically changing the geometry of components, and not needing other items like drop pitman, track bar, or am I just "half assing" things.

Or do I just say screw it 12in. lift and 44in. super swampers...

 

the ride will improve or degrade depending on the shocks you select.

let's review.
1. springs support the load and in the case of the excursion locate the axle
2. shocks control the speed at which the suspension moves. this determines the ride and handeling.

 

No jumping any railroad tracks for me, now my wife has been driving the Ex quite a bit and I cant be certain what exactly she has been doing...

Front springs have an old torn up "Skyjacker" sticker on them, and the shocks are unrecognizable as to the brand, I want to say skyjacker too, but for all I know the PO left the stock shocks on it- which could explain why I am bottoming out on BS"s Also answering you're question, no I have not checked he old shocks off the truck, if I were to go through the trouble to pull them off- I would just rather replace them and not reinstall, I think the ASSumption can be made that they are shot to s#@t!

 

JUST so you are clear YES I think you should settle on where you want it to be 1st. As PC suggested to the OP you mentioned WHAT SIZE TIRE do you want to run. You are always in no mans land with the X UNLESS the lift & or shock is specifically for the X and NOT A SUPER DUTY. A 4" SD lift is a 6" lift for an X

 

Gotcha, i think around 4in. lift is fine (which I am just short of now) and I am currently running 35in. tires, and will probably stick with that for now, little kiddos and all getting in and out.

Been looking all over for used V,B,C code springs and no luck finding any... popular I guess. I am thinking about some pro-comp leafs, or possibly another after market leaf that are more readily available.