I think the pcm has to be on the truck.

 

Oh, well that's not too bad then I'll just take it in afterwards. I just wanted to make sure I didn't miss out on getting something done with it out! I'm now in the process of learning about all the places oil can leak from.

I read the turbo pedestal can leak some (oil is puddling up around there) and maybe the HPOP or fittings can leak. I have oil puddling up on the top of the engine in a few spots. I basically want to change every gasket with the engine out, I just don't know exactly what everything is yet! I'll have some time to learn though before it goes in the Bronco.

 

Okay, I have yet another question, this time regarding the oil cooler setup.

I've been reading on what seals to replace while I have the engine out and this one came up. I looked it up replacing these seals deals with the o-rings for both the front and rear cap, and the gaskets for where the two caps mounts to the block.

My issue is, when I took off the oil filter, a little spring came out. After looking into it, it seems as if that was the oil relief valve spring or something. It appears that I'm missing some of the parts, so I only have a spring and nothing else.

Are there any repair kits for this pressure relief valve? I can only find gasket kits and no spring/washer things for the valve. I read that not having this work properly will cause idling and starting issues. Would I be better off buying a whole new oil cooler entirely?

If they do make kits for this, can someone send me a link to where the parts are sold or tell me the best place to get them? I couldn't find anything after a while of searching so I decided it would be best to ask here! Thanks!

 

I think you have to buy the end cap.

 

Ahh that's too bad but is what I was figuring. I found some on ebay but they are several hundred dollars. There are a few full oil cooler setups from super duty's on ebay as well that are cheaper than just the end cap. I'm hoping I can get some money soon so I can purchase one of those!

 

I will soon have some spare end caps.

 

Oh well that could be pretty nice. I have a buddy that lives in Las Crusces going to school there. If I get some money soon, maybe I can make a trip down there to visit him and then pick up another endcap! I don't know when I'll be getting my funds though, it should be pretty quick but until then, I can't afford to pay for anything! It's quite upsetting seeing so much that needs to be done but having no money to pay for the parts!

I guess that's the luxury of not working a full time job my last semester of college. My family and I are all getting a very small amount of inheritance from my grandma which was super nice of her, so that money will last me the rest of the semester and slightly after I'm out of college. I'll need to find a job though somewhat soon, but I can only get a temporary one because I'll most likely be leaving at the beginning of next year for the Air Force (if not then by the end of this year all depending on when tech boards become available.) It's probably going to be hard getting a temporary engineering job... so I may see if I can be a hometown mechanic or something in the meantime (probably gasoline since I'm not familiar with diesel !)

 

Well I have yet another question, this one regarding the HPOP.

I have determined that the HPOP is leaking from the rear plate that is held on by the c-clip. Apparently these don't normally leak from what I've read, but it's definitely leaking from there. I had it pulled off and cleaned up and it's slowly seeping from under the c-clip.

Anyways, I purchased a new o-ring for behind the plate from dieselorings and took the c-clip off, but the plate will not come out at all!

I rear that some people hit the plate with a hammer until it starts to turn. I didn't want to hit it too hard but I tapped on it for about 15 minutes, it wouldn't budge so I stopped that.

I also tried hitting it decently hard with a rubber mallet and also tried hitting the sides of the pump with this too to no avail.

I then tried prying it out with a screwdriver while also using brake clean to maybe clean up/lubricate the edge to loosen it up but that didn't work either.



The two other options I've read are that you can use compressed air to blow off the cap, or let it sit overnight and hope it makes it's way loose. I am currently watching my "neighbors" house (we live on a ranch so neighbors aren't directly across the street) to house sit/watch their dogs while they are gone so I'm letting the pump sit on it's end overnight as of now. I'm not holding my breath on the cap coming lose overnight, so I'm thinking I'll have to use compressed air. That's no problem for me because I have a decent air compressor, but I don't know what I'm doing.

What port do I blow the air into to get that cap off? I don't know how the pump works and am afraid of messing something up if I blow in the wrong port (or continue hammering it too hard). I'd rather not spend 500 dollars for a new pump when I have this 3 dollar o-ring to put in!

 

Subbed, looks like a lot of great work!

 

I forgot to update this thread! Thanks Dillon I'll now post an update for people who may read over this.

I ended up getting the cap off my old HPOP by cleaning around the plate edges very well and using some patience, tape, picks, and time.

After doing all this work, I later found out that my HPOP was the wrong one for a 1995 block.... I saw it didn't have the anti drainback valve that the 95 blocks require to keep the HPOP reservoir full. It was replaced before but done so with a 96+ unit which don't have the valve because the engine cover has the valve with those years. I ended up buying a remaned Cardone one from rockatuo because it was the cheapest option to get the correct year one (at 500 bucks with no core charge.) It does have a lifetime warranty which is good, I just hope I won't have problems with it ever! I will probably upgrade to a terminator or some other HPOP before this one gives me any trouble (at least that is the plan, and that plan won't take effect for YEARS because I don't need to be spending money on HPOPs again!)

 

At $500 I would hope it lasts for a while. When/if you replace it and the reman one still works, keep that sucker as a spare unless there is a core.

 

Haha yeah I actually already sold it for 165 bucks. Since it was the wrong year HPOP, it would let the oil reservoir drain down when the truck wasn't running so it would take a very long time to start up initially since it would have to fill the reservoir first.

If mine goes south, I may see if I can send it in and get it rebuilt to be a better one. I think that's an option!

 

Could be possible. What I meant was after you get the new reman, if you replace it with a the new one you want, keep the reman as a spare

 

Oh yeah that's a good idea I'd definitely do that if I purchase a new one outright. I hope that I won't have to get a new one any time soon though!

 

How did you get the hpop with out a core charge? When I look everything has from 150 to 250 core charge.