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Can anyone suggest a suitable budget conscious welding machine for small sheet metal body work on '48 F1?
I see them 120v and 220v machines..Mig/Flux??
I also see pricey acetylene models..overkill?
I'm a first time DIY welder and have come to the realization that after weeks of prep work ( Youtube Auto body college) there are some lower fender areas that need new sheet metal.
Also..all of my fenders, truck bed, hood, running boards & doors are off the truck. I keep wondering which finish paint approach makes the most sense..
finish paint while they're
off the truck or after installation.
Painting after installation minimizes damage to the finish but prevents full coverage..what do you guys think. Thanks
I'm a VERY amateur welder. After my old mig was stolen, I bought an Eastwood Mig 135, and leased a bottle of Argon. I've been pretty happy with it so far. (1.5 years)
For what it's worth I did all of my welding with a Northern Flux Core Mig and everything worked just fine. My wife bought it for my for Christmas in 2014. I think he paid maybe $120 or so. I see Northern no longer sells their own branded welders. But honestly this one below is pretty much identical to my own and it has great reviews. I'd buy it without hesitation. Perfectly suitable for your needs.
Edit: I missed the end part of your inquiry. Sorry. I painted all of my removable sheet metal off the truck. I used blue painters tape on each piece so I didn't scratch any one panel when I reinstalled them. By removing the sheet metal it gives you the freedom of adjusting each piece for absolute coverage. You don't have that freedom when they're mounted. I don't know how a big shop would do it but it sure worked for me.
Step up and get a small 110 unit that uses gas. Don't waste your time with the flux stuff. The weld quality will be inferior, and as a novice you'll be more frustrated with it than learning to do it right.
For painting, you can get a better job if you paint your parts in pieces. But if you don't have good help assembling, as noted, you do run into the issue of potential damage putting it together. Personally, I like doing it apart.
If you want to buy a good new MIG, I would (and did) go with AXracer's recommendation for the Eastwood MIG 135. They ran a sale and I got it for $250. Their site shows it on sale now for $280, but they drop that lower on occasion.
I know this unit is not in the budget minded person, but I have to say once you get started in this hobby you will find out the benefits of this unit. I have had a 155 Lincoln for 20 years now and absolutely am sold on it. I would recommend the Lincoln or the Miller equivalent.
The link won't take you to the actual mig without hitting a few more buttons. I tried not savy enough. Click on the link than enter K 2473-2 in the search window, than click on the 180c mig description the first one
Last edited by gerrymoe; Jan 27, 2016 at 04:33 PM.
Reason: Can't get the link to work
Hey ax,
Have u ever used the thermal arc 181 multi process welder or the tweco 141 multi process..looking to upgrade in a month or 2. I think I want the benefits of the Tig to do stainless welding.
Thanks dan
No hands on with either of these machines, but reading thru the specs, neither would be on my "buy" list. IMHO combo machines are not particularly good at more than 1 process (MIG in the case of these machines) and switching over is such a PITA that you are not likely to do it more than a couple times. Any shielding gas MIG machine is capable of welding stainless with a switch of shielding gas and wire.
again IMHO if you want both MIG and TIG capability you would be far better served with two dedicated machines such as the Eastwood 135 MIG and their TIG 200 for about the same money as the one combo machine with the needed accessories and have far greater capability (such as welding aluminum) without all the switch over hassle, altho once you get proficient with TIG you are likely to use it for all your welding and let the MIG sit in the corner.
If you ever plan on doing anything other than sheet metal or 1/8" look for a 220v machine
If all you want is to stick some sheet metal together and never use it again get a cheap chinese welder. Harbor freight, that northern tool welder
$500 gets you a Hobart 140 which is a good machine but still only 110v
Eastwoods quality has dropped over the last few years from what I've read on one of the welding forums. I do remember reading it was a copy of the lincoln 135
Newguy339 All of your multiprocess welders use lift arc since they don't have the room for High frequency arc. The ones i've seen don't even come with a foot pedal. They also never have features that are valuable to tig welding.
I followed what Ax said in his tutorial. When I sold the F3 the buyer was surprised as much metal had been replaced when I told him all I did. I am NOT saying I am a good welder but following the tutorials the AX man posted and taking your time to redo it if it gets messed up works well. At least it did for me. Have fun
Can anyone suggest a suitable budget conscious welding machine for small sheet metal body work on '48 F1?
I see them 120v and 220v machines..Mig/Flux??
I also see pricey acetylene models..overkill?
I'm a first time DIY welder and have come to the realization that after weeks of prep work ( Youtube Auto body college) there are some lower fender areas that need new sheet metal.
Also..all of my fenders, truck bed, hood, running boards & doors are off the truck. I keep wondering which finish paint approach makes the most sense..
finish paint while they're
off the truck or after installation.
Painting after installation minimizes damage to the finish but prevents full coverage..what do you guys think. Thanks
EASTWOOD mig 135. Get Argon bottle, avoid using Flux Core Weld Wire.
IMHO, 1st, take a welding class at a local college.......learn temperatures, etc by starting with oxy/acet, then after you understand welding principles, then move on to a wire feed welder....IMHO, I would look at Miller.
