When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thank you Danr1 the plug was off and taped up i never would of noticed it.. Plugged it in now code 52 is gone!!...but now i got a code 22 after driving and re checking..this truck..
KOEO? CM? both?
Make sure the MAP sensor is plugged in and with clean tight connections, make sure the vacuum line is free of leaks is connected directly to the intake and that there is no check valve of any kind installed in its vac line.
There are some other possibilities but start with those verify things are as they should be with it.
well ill see if i can find a vaccum gauge.. im not 100% sure on how to test all that but ill dig around and see what i find.. and sorry what does KOEO and CM stand for? Im definatly new to these ford trucks.. im a mechanic on other things so vehicles is newer to me.
When you run the self test KOEO is the first result returned (repeats codes twice), then the "10" separator code then the CM codes are displayed.
KOEO tests various circuits and their sensors, any failed must be corrected because if they fail during the self test they will fail during drive cycle/
CM are errors detected during drive cycles, an error has to happen more than once to trigger a code.
KOER is the same as KOEO but tests things the motor has to be running for, CM does not follow a KOER test.
An overly simplified explanation but I believe you get the idea.
Alright that makes sense.. just went out and checked the connections to the map sensor everything seems fine and i cant find any cracked vaccum lines. So only flashing codes right now are 22 then the 10 spacer and 33
Takes some speical equipment to test the sensor itself, that is covered in the link above.
Myself I have yet to have a MAP sensor go bad, not suggesting its not possible just in my experience unlikely the sensor itself is the problem just more likely to be a wiring issues. Don't let that stop you from testing it if you feel it comes to that though.
well im willing to test this thing.. my 10mpg is being caused by something...Almost worth just replacing it to see if it changes.. only 50$ and if its not fixed i cant return the part
Got code 22 cleared up..now i got a new one.. code 67...though that was for automatics? Mines a 5spd. At any rate found one vacuum leak so im gonna replace all the original plastic lines with new rubber lines today.
Alright engine fully warmed up after i fixed some wires and taped some plugs so water would stay out.. I got code 11 then in cm code 33 So code 11 is system is ok .. correct? I finally feel like i got a step in the right direction!!
Alright engine fully warmed up after i fixed some wires and taped some plugs so water would stay out.. I got code 11 then in cm code 33 So code 11 is system is ok .. correct? I finally feel like i got a step in the right direction!!
Yes that is correct, now you can work on code 33 if you wish or just make sure the EGR valve remains fully closed.
On mine it is connected via vac line and electrically active but it is blocked off so no vac leak is created, the tube to the exhaust manifold no longer exists its port is plugged so no possible exhaust leak.
Code 11 is System Pass. In the described scenario the KOEO tests pass. You can clear the codes from CM by disconnecting the reader during the code display.
ok awesome well im hoping that the code 33 will clear up because the egr works with a hand pump.. and i cleaned it well. The old vaccum line was broke and had been taped together ... now that i got all new vaccum lines im hoping it works and clears up.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.