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Any auto body experts here that can give me advice..
I'm giving it my first try at body work with Bondo and no matter how hard I try I keep getting these small pot/pin holes in my bondo finish. I can't seem to sand them out (seems they get larger)..is it the way I'm applying the bondo or perhaps not I'm not mixing it correctly? I skim them thinking there covered but they keep coming back. Will they disappear with the epoxy primer and top coat? I would hate to get to the finish paint process only to see them all over the place.
Was the truck "dipped" to strip the paint? My in-laws had there 54 Chevy dipped and the dipper applied an oil to it to keep it from rusting. I tried everything I could think of to get the oil off.
It happens when there is fine sanding dust remaining on the surface where you are applying the bondo. The bondo wont stick at those spots and tends to 'roll up'.
When applying the filler on your first "Swipe" apply some pressure so you are pushing out any air that may be getting trapped underneath. Then come back after you press the filler in and smooth everything out the best you can.
Make sure when you are mixing in the hardener that you are not over working the filler. That will introduce more air into the mix and result in small pin holes everywhere. Just fold the two products together until you get a uniform color. Don't go too slow or the filler will set before you start spreading.
Once the filler starts to get firm but is still a bit soft you can do your initial shaping with a "cheese grater". You can get these online or in most commercial paint stores. This takes some practice as it removes a bunch of material in short order.
Then 40 grit, then 80 and then 150 and you are ready form fill primer.
Good luck and don't get discouraged. It is a great skill to learn and you will be glad you did in the years to come.
What you have there in the photo is not "pinholes" by the common definition. If that was mine I would remove it all, make sure the metal is prepped properly and make sure you have a good applicator, fresh filler and as stated don't overwork it when applying.
Clean the surface well with wax & grease remover and use Rage Gold, its creamy and flows better than bondo and there is a lot less pin holes, any pin holes you may fine hit them with ever coat glazing putt, Done
I had a few of those in my body filler and I used eastwoods products to take care of it. Also if you have an air compressor I used the blow gun to clean the panel of most dust then wiped it down. If it continues like your saying it may be worth it to blow that section off with air to get down to the bottom as wiping it will not do that.
Yes, wash the panel with acetone on a clean rag to remove dust and grease just before applying Rage Gold, and don't try to "stretch" the putty by using it once it starts to kick (starts to spread like cottage cheese). When first applying the putty press it heavily with the squeegie to where you just about remove it all, then immediately go back over it with a thicker layer as needed. Don't apply to cold metal.
Great find, Charlie. The information and technique is well presented. I learned some thing. I am presently going through this stage on my truck and I tend to convince myself that body work is harder than it really is. Knowledge makes it easier.
Kevin Tetz is a guy that I have followed for some time now. He was host of a TV show and he has a series of DVDs on body and paintwork called "Paintucation" that are excellent. Recently he has partnered up with Eastwood so now we get to see more of him on YouTube without having to buy a DVD...good deal for us! Once you work through the body filler sections, he has another group of videos on spray guns and painting techniques that are worth the time to watch. And if you are really into it you can get into the color sanding and buffing after that.
