Air Cleaner options
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I've added some info to my web site that might help:
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 2,239
Likes: 5
From: Northeast Ohio USA
Working fine so far in the 25 degree temps up here.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Interesting that you say that. I just added this blurb to my web site here: Air Cleaners - Gary's Garagemahal
UPDATE: Today (1/22/16) I drove Rusty and it was 20 degrees out. As soon as the choke came off completely the AFR was lean enough that it wanted to bog until I pulled the vacuum down below 5" and the metering rods popped up and gave the engine more fuel with the air. Why, because I don't have the "stove" part of the air cleaner system on Rusty. So even though the under-hood temps came up some as the engine warmed up, the Air Cleaner Temp Sensor couldn't get the inlet air up to where it should be and the result was a lean air/fuel mix. Yes, it got better the further I drove because things under the hood got warmer and warmer, but it was on the very edge of being too lean even then. The point being that the system works well when it has all of its components, and I need to put the stove on Rusty.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 2,239
Likes: 5
From: Northeast Ohio USA
Interesting that you say that. I just added this blurb to my web site here: Air Cleaners - Gary's Garagemahal
UPDATE: Today (1/22/16) I drove Rusty and it was 20 degrees out. As soon as the choke came off completely the AFR was lean enough that it wanted to bog until I pulled the vacuum down below 5" and the metering rods popped up and gave the engine more fuel with the air. Why, because I don't have the "stove" part of the air cleaner system on Rusty. So even though the under-hood temps came up some as the engine warmed up, the Air Cleaner Temp Sensor couldn't get the inlet air up to where it should be and the result was a lean air/fuel mix. Yes, it got better the further I drove because things under the hood got warmer and warmer, but it was on the very edge of being too lean even then. The point being that the system works well when it has all of its components, and I need to put the stove on Rusty.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 57,014
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From: Virginia
I disagree with that. You are correct if you only drive your truck in the summer you probably could run a open element air cleaner, but if you drive it on nasty cold rainy/snowy days in the winter, it's hard to get them to run correctly without the warm air intake with the original aircleaner. If you have a working heat riser in the exhaust manifold, that would probably help and it might warm the carb enough to run ok with a open element.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Yep. I think it is well covered in the page linked to above. But, then I would as I wrote it. 
Basically, carburetors have no clue what the temp of the air is which is flowing through them. However, the temp of the air has a huge effect on the amount of oxygen in a given volume. So, they dispense the same amount of fuel to air that is -20 degrees as they do with air that is +200 degrees.
A chart I found shows that the apparent concentration of O2 in air at 41 degrees F is 22%, and at 125 degrees it is 19%. So, if you jet your carb to give you 14.7:1 AFR at 125 degrees you'll have something like 17:1 at 41 degrees. (That is really back-of-the-envelope math, and I not only subtracted percentages but I also divided them. My professors would be agast!) And, I can tell you that 17:1 is, according to my AFR meter, bordering on Bog City.
Basically, carburetors have no clue what the temp of the air is which is flowing through them. However, the temp of the air has a huge effect on the amount of oxygen in a given volume. So, they dispense the same amount of fuel to air that is -20 degrees as they do with air that is +200 degrees.
A chart I found shows that the apparent concentration of O2 in air at 41 degrees F is 22%, and at 125 degrees it is 19%. So, if you jet your carb to give you 14.7:1 AFR at 125 degrees you'll have something like 17:1 at 41 degrees. (That is really back-of-the-envelope math, and I not only subtracted percentages but I also divided them. My professors would be agast!) And, I can tell you that 17:1 is, according to my AFR meter, bordering on Bog City.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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Likes: 4,129
From: Angier, NC
If you have a working heat riser in the exhaust manifold, that would probably help and it might warm the carb enough to run ok with a open element.
Ok yes the stock setup if working right is the way to go but I have also driven many that had after market open air filters. 1 was a 6 in a Toyota L/C used in winter but also had a Holley 2300 v2 carb and header.
Only carb I ever had ice up was a Rockchester or Holley v2 on a VW bug w/header. Was up in Maine during winter (hunting) driving on the high way steady speed and like ran out of gas. Pop lid and carb was white with ice.
No issues up to that point ever with the car driving from CT to Maine.
Dave ----
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I remember as a 16 yo snot-nosed teenager installing one of those chrome things on my Mustang's 351W, its wintertime performance characteristics after that weren't nearly as user-friendly but I dealt with it in order to look cool to my friends... stupid child I was.
Denver metro area, 5,000 foot elevation, temps below zero at times.
Denver metro area, 5,000 foot elevation, temps below zero at times.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,958
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From: Houston
Do you have the plastic boot that bolts to the radiator core support? I have a nice one off a customers truck that we are doing a 5.0 Coyote swap on.
I would have to find it but if I can find it in all my spare parts I have I can send it to you.
I would have to find it but if I can find it in all my spare parts I have I can send it to you.
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