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-21F Cold Start

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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 12:56 AM
  #1  
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-21F Cold Start

Im up in Duluth MN and two nights ago it was -21 and my 6.0 unplugged started. It had been parked for about 20 hours. My question is when it started it revved itself to about 1500 a couple times then smoothed out, is this normal? Ive never seen this before. Also what is the coldest they start?
 
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 06:39 AM
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I don't know about -21, but I know mine will idle up several hundred RPM at +20 if it was unplugged overnight and will idle down when you touch the brake pedal.

Hope this helps.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 07:32 AM
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There is no magic number for coldest start. Too many variables........batteries, glow plugs, fuel, engine condition. -21 is not too shabby in my book, even gassers don't like it that cold.

Was it a longer crank than normal? At those cold temps more fuel is getting dumped into the jugs to get things going. Mine will do a mild gallop for a few seconds after a colder start, until things smooth out, then the FICM will kick in the high idle after it warms up for a bit.

I'm not sure if this strategy is build into every 6.0 but I would sure think so. IIRC mine will kick it up after a few minutes.

One thing to remember is when that engine is cold, you are trying to shove REALLY thick oil through VERY small passages in the injectors, so it stands to reason you won't start out as smoothly with the ambient that low.

Good advice for anyone is to leave the extras off until the glow plugs are done doing their thing, and this takes a few minutes down at those cold temps.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 07:35 AM
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AND while its struggling to run, idles up and down... don't help it with more throttle, when ready, it will do it itself.
Make sure you've added the anti-gel to the tank or at least be running #1 diesel.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 08:21 AM
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+1 on the anti gel. I always double dose when things get down to 0* or lower, and that is with treated fuel.
I would rather spend a few extra bucks a month on that as opposed to gelling up and having cranky injectors or worse.
I'm currently running the Motorcraft PM-23A.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 11:04 AM
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It actually cranked up in about the same time, but the crank was slower cause it was so cold. I'm guessing it was revving(like someone was feathering it) to kind of save itself. I was impressed, but I have a new ficm, good working injectors, also a 6.4 starter. All worth it if your anywhere cold in the winter.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by navistarnut
+1 on the anti gel. I always double dose when things get down to 0* or lower, and that is with treated fuel.
I would rather spend a few extra bucks a month on that as opposed to gelling up and having cranky injectors or worse.
I'm currently running the Motorcraft PM-23A.
The diesel at the pump says its good to -40 right now but Im the same way. No need to risk it.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 04:02 PM
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I believe it's a strategy built it, maybe drops a cylinder or two to warm up (Far guess) But i can cycle the plugs for 30 seconds x 3 and then crank over when the oil is near 0 degrees F and the truck will fire sometimes, sometimes need another crank. But when it does, it definitely revs up to 1200 and down to 700 pretty harshly, i don't like it to say the least. My old ficm even failing at 35v sounded nicer. It visibly rocks the truck
 
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Jmoen7
I believe it's a strategy built it, maybe drops a cylinder or two to warm up (Far guess) But i can cycle the plugs for 30 seconds x 3 and then crank over when the oil is near 0 degrees F and the truck will fire sometimes, sometimes need another crank. But when it does, it definitely revs up to 1200 and down to 700 pretty harshly, i don't like it to say the least. My old ficm even failing at 35v sounded nicer. It visibly rocks the truck
Sound to me like it's being caused by too much fuel at ignition.
I would think after cycling the plugs three times you are likely somehow getting more fuel than normal available.
I've noticed this once when I did the buzz test on the injectors with Forscan. It fired off with more authority than a normal hot start. My thinking here is that it's dumping extra fuel in the jugs that it would normally.

I might be way off base but it would make sense that it's tied to fuel somehow.

Do you run any cetane booster? I noticed a difference after I started running the Motorcraft PM-22A
 
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by navistarnut
Sound to me like it's being caused by too much fuel at ignition.
I would think after cycling the plugs three times you are likely somehow getting more fuel than normal available.
I've noticed this once when I did the buzz test on the injectors with Forscan. It fired off with more authority than a normal hot start. My thinking here is that it's dumping extra fuel in the jugs that it would normally.

I might be way off base but it would make sense that it's tied to fuel somehow.

Do you run any cetane booster? I noticed a difference after I started running the Motorcraft PM-22A
I run PS White bottle. It only does this when below 20F on the oil, anything more is a clean idle. FICM/ALT/Batterys all good, done already. It will do it with only cycling the key once too. Only variable i have so far is the cold weather. and like i said, last winter with a different ficm it didn't do this same thing. which is why i guessed strategy, but its a guess. There's no blue or black smoke just white condensation/fuel, but it is a lot of smoke
Run 5-40 rotella t6 with archoil. could the injectors just be getting old?
 
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Jmoen7
I run PS White bottle. It only does this when below 20F on the oil, anything more is a clean idle. FICM/ALT/Batterys all good, done already. It will do it with only cycling the key once too. Only variable i have so far is the cold weather. and like i said, last winter with a different ficm it didn't do this same thing. which is why i guessed strategy, but its a guess. There's no blue or black smoke just white condensation/fuel, but it is a lot of smoke
Run 5-40 rotella t6 with archoil. could the injectors just be getting old?
Does the rough running clear up within 10-20 seconds? Also if your using archoil I'm guessing you have stiction issues. My diesel shop in Minnesota only does all 8 injectors if its stiction because of our weather. They say they can put a watch on it and within a year you'll be back with the same issue. I did 3 Injectors(forcing them to) and within a month I had the same stiction issue. I put the next 5 in myself but just something to keep in mind. I know its not common practice for all 8 but in MN it seems much more common at least. How many miles on your truck? Mine had about 220000 when this was done and the shop said that's about the longest they go before having issues
 
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 06:24 PM
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 06:28 PM
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Its built in to the pcm programing. Its the vgt opening and closing causing the cange in tone and incressed rpm is normal aswell.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 08:45 PM
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I just bought my 07 6.0 about a month ago and I've yet to plug it in... Starts every time (knock on wood) with no issues but I do find that when its cold is raises the idle to warm up faster which i love having. I run power services anti gel in every tank of fuel and I use amsoil with the archoil additive making starts even easier... If its a consistent high idle then it sounds normal as far as running rough or irregular idle, it could be stiction
 
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 09:55 PM
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Man -20. Heck i was freaking out the other day when before crank ect and eot were at +24. Of course no problems starting but i can just see the injectors going ouch with that cold oil trying to actuate them.
 
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