I do have a SPOUT and I did disconnect it while checking timing.

 

My reasoning for thinking fuel still is that the oil on the dipstick still smells of it and I've changed it 3 times. And when I crank it over I've got steam/smoke coming out of the vacuum line between the cover and air box.

 

Reason for the suggestion to use starting fluid with the trucks fuel system bled off and disabled.

If it runs on the starting fluid (or fuel in a trigger sprayer) it would point to a problem in the fuel system as the problem.

If it doesn't run on starting fluid that would point to the ignition system as the cause of the problem.

You need to narrow it down to a direction to go, reading the thread you haven't done so yet.

You could end up with all kinds of fuel in the oil for a couple reasons, it'll smell of fuel until its be run up to temp to burn it all off, engine heat will evaporate the remaining fumes once it's had a few minutes to run. What I mean is don't assume its still flooding simply because you smell fuel on the dip stick yet.

As far as the timing chain you do not need to pull the cover to check its condition, bring number one piston up on the compression stroke to TDC then remove the cap on the distributor. If the rotor points to number one on the cap the timing chain isn't the issue. If its off by quite a bit you have a problem there.

Points at number one on the cap or not at that point rotate the motor the opposite direction after all slack as been taken up, rotate the motor backwards noting how far you rotate the crank before the rotor moves with it. Make a mark on the wheel for starting point and then another mark the moment the rotor moves with it. Using the timing scale you can determine total degrees of slack in the chain by comparing to the two marks you've made on the balance wheel, the distance between them. I believe the wear limit is actually 5deg, but it would start and run with double that or more provided it had not skipped a tooth.

Process of elimination, eliminate one system at a time until you narrow in on the cause of the problem.

 

If you have fuel making it to the cylinders, but not getting burned, that fuel will have to go somewhere. Some will get vented through the exhaust, but the rest, particularly liquid will have to go somewhere, that's down the cylinder walls, past the rings and into the oil. I believe you are over-thinking it. Again, I'm not trying to be rude or critical, so please don't take it that way.

With the SPOUT disconnected you are running on base timing, without computer controls. However, that being said, it should still run. Hell at this point, I'd love to hear that you are able to get it to hit off of even one cylinder. You've got some fuel, some compression, so I'm really stuck on the spark, having the plugs in the right order, counter-clockwise. Since you've verified that.

Is it possible to get someone to crank the engine, while you slightly adjust the distributor back and forth, playing with the base timing. It's a long shot, but honestly, this is a solid stumper, and I'm running out of ideas to provide via the internet, with out being able to put my hands on it.

 

I was wondering how fast the engine is cranking. The engine must crank for a time period and achieve a certain RPM before the PCM computer will let the engine start. I do not remember the amount of crank time and the RPM it must achieve but remember reading about it somewhere.

I would leave the SPOUT out until you get it to start. You might also leave the fuel pump relay out and try to start it on starter fluid.

Most of the time when an engine will run OK and then not and then run OK again it is almost always the PCM Computer. I know you said you changed it.
Where did the PCM come from that you put in it?
Was it the right one for the engine and ICM that you have in the truck?

 

i might have missed it, but i didnt see where he indicated he was getting a spark. he might have power to, and through, the coil, but he still has a no start condition.

 

He says he has spark.
Sounds like he used a timing light to check timing. He would have to have spark to #1 plug wire for the timing light to work.

 

Yes I do have spark. I've verified it 3 or 4 times now, but....
I just went out and put everything back together with the fuel system at 0 psi and the relay pulled to disable it. Sprayed a bit of starter fluid in the intake and still nothing.

 

I did change the PCM yes. It is the correct one and I verified this, it's the FB. I bought it at AutoZone and it's a rebuild Cardone? one.

 

ok then, when you crank the engine over, does it sound like it normally did when the engine was running, or does it sound like it cranks over faster than before? if faster than before, then perhaps the timing chain has taken a powder and its time to dig into the motor.

 

I'd say it sounds the same, at least not a really apparent increase in speed if any.

 

does it sound slightly uneven when cranking?

since you have a distributor, an easy way to check timing chain integrity is to pop the cap, and hand crank the engine in one direction, it doesnt matter which way, until the rotor starts to move. then hand crank it the other way again until the rotor starts to move. the amount you have to crank back the other way will tell you how much slack you have in the timing chain. if the rotor moves fairly quickly going back the other way, then i doubt you have a timing chain issue, if on the other hand the rotor doesnt move until you have moved the crank a fair amount, then again its time to get into the motor.

 

Ok, pulled the SPOUT and she definitely tried to catch when cranked over with starting fluid.

 

so then i believe you have narrowed it to an ignition issue, probably either the TFI module itself, or a bad connection somewhere, or the pcm is sending a wrong timing signal, or something in that area, imo.

 

Well, you are on the short strectch now. With the SPOUT disconnected, connect the fuel system back up. Try again, then start minor adjustments on the dizzy one way, if after a few adjustments, try the other direction. Some white out to make marks to know where you started is a good idea.

Remember, Ford cylinders are not numbered like all other vehicles, nor does the dizzy turn in the same direction. Once those two items are verified, the timing adjustment should get you at least to a rough idle.

Please let us know what you find.