Riffraffdiesel.com check it out good pricing on oem parts.

 

My dad's 96 did the same thing except he was running 55 mph down the road pulling his horse trailer and it just shut off like you turned the key off. It would turn over but not hit. Took it to Ford and it he had to get a new brain box.

 

I just checked them out---I'm a cash and carry guy-

 

there are just to many things that--might--- be the reason it wont start
does anybody have an --IDI -TURBO TADE WANT TO TRADE

 

Oh man, you are in for a treat. Riffraff diesel is one of (if not the best) places to get quality parts for our trucks. Click the link in my signature and you will see what we are talking about

 

Mine did something similar a few years ago. Turned out to be the IDM.

Does the tach move when you are cranking it over? Do you remember if there was oil in the plug for the ICP?

Don't worry we will help you get through this and get back on the road.

 

Disregard the post above about the crank position sensor. As you already know based on your opening post, there isn't one. It's a cam position sensor. But take heed of the above; do NOT use an aftermarket CPS. In fact, if the one you removed is an OEM, and the one you installed is aftermarket, it might be worth swapping the OEM back in. It's generally not a good idea to swap parts like that just on suspicion, without some testing.

After you disconnected the fuel filter heater, did you test/replace the #22 maxifuse again? Are you getting the WTS light yet, and/or any tach movement while cranking? Most likely, since you tried to start the truck before disconnecting the fuel filter heater, the #22 fuse is probably blown again.

Indeed, the PSD depends on a lot more to run than an IDI (we have two PSD, and bought one IDI just to have one very simple non-electronic truck in case the SHTF). But it's the first generation PSD, and is a LOT less complicated than the later ones, and is really not that daunting. A good set of factory manuals, some fairly cheap diagnostic tools, and participation in these forums can go a long way, and can save you a bundle. Most important tool is patience. I see gazillions of threads, the OP is obviously all wrapped around the axle swapping parts and cutting wires trying to solve a problem, when some patient detective work is all that's needed. Seems like a little mind game, but it helps sometimes to think that it's not really your truck, you're just helping your buddy get his truck running, spending some free time under his hood.

And +100000 on RiffRaff; Clay and his crew are honest as the day is long, and will always point you in the right direction for what you need for a fair price.

 

madpogue--thanks I'm a patient man- not a kid anymore--more frustrated by what I don't know about strokes ---
when you say not to swap parts without testing----
how do you go about testing?????
a camp sensor
an idm
a pcm

an icp
an ipr
that's the information I'm looking for in this fourm I cant find

 

Yep, PSD can be a pain in the A$$. I got one in the yard right now with the hood up.


A very nice guy from another state brought his computer and tested my truck. It looked like the ICP was not working correctly. I ordered it on Monday of this week from Riffraff, yesterday it was in the mail box.?? Awesome, I will install it today


Riffraff is a small family business, my guess is that they saw a need for good parts for PSD and made a good business from that. I can assure you that they will do every thing in their power to make sure you get the right part for your truck and these PSD's have a lot of different parts that will not work with just any PSD. They are VERY year specific


The local ford place wanted $191.00 + tax for a ICP. I paid $130 something.


The guys on this forum will get you up and running again without throwing parts at your truck.


Good luck it will get fixed

 

oh I forgot the wts light came back on
today ill unhook the bowl warmer

the scanner tool says no freeze out stored

in the key on position power to the relay is on two poles
the large constant and small pole with small red wire yellow stripe

no power to the other small pole -red/purple stripe
or large pole -to glow plugs
I'm thinking pcm

 

Good, sounds like you didn't blow the fuse 22.

The terminal with the red/purple small wire is a ground wire, that's grounded by the PCM. You wouldn't expect to see voltage there, and that wouldn't be the way to test that terminal. To check that terminal, check for continuity between it and ground with key OFF. There should be NO continuity. Then turn key to RUN and check again. There should be continuity to ground for 1-2 minutes (GP run time as determined by the PCM). If that's all good, and there's still no power to the large terminal that goes to the GPs, then the relay is bad.

"Poor man's" CPS test is to check the tach while cranking. There is no single test for the PCM, since it's a computer with several functions, you need a scanner that can communicate with it. Best IDM test is a buzz test.

What scanner are you using?

 

well I went to TOMS FORD IN KEYPORT NJ---the look down his nose guy behind the counter said I need the vin # for -----pcm
the --icm-is- around $1025
I took the icm out --shook it --no water present
took it to stealership they said they cant test it

cps was $30 I took that home and changed it out again----no start-I loked at the tack while cranking --it moved
how much is a pcm

 

INNOVA 3100 SCANNER----
after I came back from stealership I removed the icm
and the pcm
now I know motorcraftt glow plugs zd 11 only
buying parts from ford like a pcm icm

has any body use with susess reman from cardone
hell the genuine ford part says made in brazil

 

The odds of the PCM being bad are slim to none.

The odds of an IDM being bad are pretty slim as well, but it does happen. I had a bad IDM.

I suggest you eliminate everything else before even considering those as a possibility.

Even without glow plugs, you should get smoke out the tail pipe when you crank it. If you're not, here's what to check:

While cranking, what's the fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the driver's side of the fuel bowl? You can use a tire pressure gauge - just push in the stem at the Schrader valve to take a reading. But it will be zero when you aren't cranking, you have to be cranking the engine over to check the fuel pressure. The fuel bowl is on top of the engine in the valley.

Unplug the ICP and see if the truck will start. If your ICP is bad (Reading zero even though you have adequate high pressure oil), then the PCM will not engage the injectors. However, if you just unplug the sensor, then the truck will assume a value for high pressure oil. So if unplugging the ICP sensor allows the truck to start, then the ICP is bad.

Do those two checks and get back to us.

 

well ill try what you said
the ipc is new out of the box
there was no smoke out of the tail pipe
I was starting to lean towards pcm--because
the brand new gpr is not getting power to glow plug side
I have since replaced fuse #22 that was burned
removed wire on fuel bowl for heater

this is what is so frustrating about this problem
new gpr
new icp
new ipr
new cam sensor
whats left