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Old Jan 5, 2016 | 07:19 AM
  #16  
Walleye Hunter's Avatar
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Originally Posted by fred2001
Thank you again. Is there a way you can test continuity with this multimeter?
What rikster said there only he left out the part that you use the Ohm setting, as the meter is set in that picture above. If you have the cord off and in your hands (or both ends close enough together) you can attach your probes to each end and check it for continuity one wire at a time. No continuity=bad cord.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2016 | 07:57 PM
  #17  
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At roughly what temperature should the block heater be necessary? The owner's manual says it should be used below -10 F, but I think that's mainly for gas engines. The diesel supplement briefly mentions the heater, but doesn't seem to say when it becomes necessary. My truck is hard to start without the heater below about 35 F. Is this normal, or should I be looking for other problems?
 
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Old Jan 5, 2016 | 08:04 PM
  #18  
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at 1,000 watts if you listen real close when you slowly plug and unplug the block heater you will hear a small pop as the plug makes and breaks contact with the receptacle. Also after 15-20 min the cord will be slightly warm and pliable. Neither of these present then it ain't workin. Beware of a bad/frayed cord, they get bad right where the cord meets the molded plug end inside where you can't see it. This is the spot where the fire starts once enough strands have separated from the blades.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2016 | 08:12 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by simpsomatt
At roughly what temperature should the block heater be necessary? The owner's manual says it should be used below -10 F, but I think that's mainly for gas engines. The diesel supplement briefly mentions the heater, but doesn't seem to say when it becomes necessary. My truck is hard to start without the heater below about 35 F. Is this normal, or should I be looking for other problems?
IDK what temp is recommended but I'll say I have only plugged my heater in 1 time for just a few minutes just to see if it was working. My truck has been started in below 0 weather quite a few times w/o ever having the heater helping. I would check your glow-plug relay 1st then check your glow-plugs if the relay is working properly. 35* should not even raise an eyebrow if the glow-plugs are working properly.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2016 | 09:27 PM
  #20  
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I know the glow plug relay is good. I just replaced it and tested it. The plugs SHOULD be good, because I just paid a shop about $800 to replace them.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2016 | 09:39 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by simpsomatt
I know the glow plug relay is good. I just replaced it and tested it. The plugs SHOULD be good, because I just paid a shop about $800 to replace them.
$800!
Did you use Motorcraft glow plugs ? Non OEM PLUGS have a history of swelling and breaking off.
Did you use an OEM GP Harness? Dormon harnesses are junk and create problems of their own.

All 8 Motorcraft GP only run $75ish, my shop quoted me $340 to put them in and another $100 to do a compression test!
WHY $800?
 
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 08:09 AM
  #22  
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My 1999.5 197k miles and probably (afaik) is all original, so about 30 degrees I have to start plugging mine in or I have a hard time starting it. Since it looks like no one else is dumb enough to buy this truck(except me) then I will start upgrading and attempt to make it a better truck than it is right now. Aside from my issues with rust this truck actually has some upgrades on it that I like so it will make a good hauler for my camper once it's fixed up.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 08:31 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Colorado350
$800!

WHY $800?
Probably because I was stupid and didn't pin them down for a firm estimate before they started. And it wasn't really quite that bad. $800 was the total bill to get me back on the road after I broke down and had to be hauled to the shop. Since I'd had rough start problems, I asked them to check the glow plugs while they had it, although I knew that wasn't the cause of the breakdown.

Bill doesn't itemize labor. Parts were about $100 for a fuel filter and cam sensor, which was apparently why it originally stopped running, and another $120 for glow plugs. That leaves about $600 in labor to diagnose problem, replace filter and CPS, and replace GPs. Probably still more than I should have paid.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 10:09 AM
  #24  
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I just tested the block heater it read (approx) 20.0~ Ohms (this assumes I used the correct setting and read the device correctly)

did the same with the cord connected to the heater element and it read about 20.0 Ohms and went as high as 86.0~ Ohms....does that mean the cord is bad, or is the heater element bad? or Both are bad/going out??
 
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 12:46 PM
  #25  
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Welllllll down to 14 last night and a no start for me. Go to plug 'er in and I get a fireworks display at the plug. One wire was broken through there. I got a new end at Ace, RTV Blued it up during assembly and I'm back in business. I will be changing to T6 oil now.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 03:20 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Jaime74656
I just tested the block heater it read (approx) 20.0~ Ohms (this assumes I used the correct setting and read the device correctly)

did the same with the cord connected to the heater element and it read about 20.0 Ohms and went as high as 86.0~ Ohms....does that mean the cord is bad, or is the heater element bad? or Both are bad/going out??
I would suspect the cord is bad.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 03:48 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by William Mark Brown
I would suspect the cord is bad.
ok, will do! Will be getting a replacement cord off Amazon soon, along with the plug thing that will go on my bumper so I dont have to fight for the plug end (or possibly forget its sticking out of the grill and rip that off in the process....)
 
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 05:09 PM
  #28  
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well I just placed my order on Amazon, so I will be testing out the heater once it arrives before I start cutting into things!

also bought this little guy, thought it would be a good idea to have the heater plug permanently accessible no matter the grill set up (i am wanting to switch to a better grill on my truck)



I feel it should some some of the plug issues the cords are prone to have...
 
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 10:14 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Jaime74656
well I just placed my order on Amazon, so I will be testing out the heater once it arrives before I start cutting into things!

also bought this little guy, thought it would be a good idea to have the heater plug permanently accessible no matter the grill set up (i am wanting to switch to a better grill on my truck)



I feel it should some some of the plug issues the cords are prone to have...
I just installed the exact same thing, looks and works great! Do not skimp on a hole saw!
 
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 10:52 PM
  #30  
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I think my cord is bad,I got home last night and went to plug it in and it popped the g.f.i so I left it unplugged.My wife got up this morning and went to work, saw that it was unplugged and plugged it in.So I get up and go to work go outside and see it plugged in and the light on the cord was on go to start my truck and it starts right up.go figure? I think I will go and get a new cord end and wire that in .
 
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