I was thinking of getting Ziebart undercoating under my 2016 F-350 7.6 Larriet. It cost around $720.00 and the coat with a rust inhibitor. Any thoughts on the process??

 

Where you located? My brother had it on his truck in upstate/western NY and though his truck is still around he will tell you it is not worth it.

What I have been told if you live in the rust/snow belt get yourself some drop cloth, use old oil and a brush and rub it all over the underside of your truck. Do this every year and it will significantly reduce any rust.

Another added measure when you open your doors you should have rubber boots covering holes in the body panels. If so remove those and squirt the **** out of them in those holes with WD40. That will also reduce or eliminate any rust from forming inside door jams, rocker panels, fenders, etc. Any place you can find to spray will help!

If the truck is brand new like you mentioned above 2016 then perhaps if you undercoat it might last longer, but once that undercoat fails the rust will get in underneath that undercoat and just eat away without you knowing it there.

I'm sure others will chime in with ideas or maybe counter what I have said but good luck!

 

Located in Massachusetts

 

Do not use rubberized undercoating on anything. You WILL regret it. My truck was undercoated and the undercoating basically absorbed moisture and accelerated corrosion.

I have spent hundreds of hours scraping, sanding, treating and coating the underside of my truck, and I'm only halfway done. I have found some things that work, others that don't.

I can tell you from experience, rustoleum does not work, unless it is the "hammered" finish. That stuff is the best rust-proofing paint I've found.

Eastwood rust-encapsulator is okay at best. It works well on the underside of a bed, but in wheel wells, it just chips off.

KBS rust coat is the best thing I've found if you can prep properly. I've used it on my frame and wheel wells and it's holding strong.

POR-15 is okay. If you don't paint it, it will begin to degrade. I've found that even after painting, it'll still degrade. It isn't what it used to be.

 

It's a new truck.
Search this web site.
It WORKS!
https://www.krown.com/
This is the location I use, but I believe there's a few in New England as well.
http://4xheaven.com/

 

dont do it! the rustiest truck i ever owned was zeibarted!

 

A lot of members have had great success with this.

http://www.fluid-film.com/applications/automotive/

 

Fluid Film is the best IMO. Or motor oil.

 

Fluid film is a great product, but you can't beat the application process that a krown service includes. Plus they offer a warranty.

 

Apply Fluid Film, it absolutely works!

 

just so you know.. when the Rust gets under the Ziebart, and it Will..

they will repair/replace with USED (junk yard) parts... and a fast repaint...

then every 2 years. you will be doing it again.. and again...

and You MUST do the yearly refreshing by them. and more money.

I know... N.E. Ohio and the Snow/Rust Belt.

 

This year I used a air spray gun. work good with no dripping. took about 3/4 th's of a gallon. drove the truck up on ramps, jacked it up, pulled the wheels off, and it was pretty easy. nothin dripped onto the street or me.

the only problem with spraying used oil under yuor truck is the annual safety inspections.....they will ding you for "leaks" and not pass you...so best to do this after and not before the yearly safety inspection.

 

This is not a ditch on Z***** but rather my experience. Dont walk...run from Z*****! It's the tar like sheet on the undercarriage that is the problem. The other product they use which is sprayed into the doors, fenders etc... is OK, as it's similar and may actually be LPS 3 or fluid film. The black tar like substance...not good. It expands and contracts with temp and once it cracks and lets in the water you're done. Then when you go back for the annual respray it seals in the moisture and accelerates the rust... IMO...At least that was my experience with the 08. The rust was popping everywhere at 80K at 5 years old. That aint right. Z****** has been around since the late 60s. Aged technology IMO.
I'm using the Krown system on the 11. So far so good. Unfortunately mine wasn't new when I had this applied. It already exhibited some light scale at 2.5 years old when I bought it (so 2 winters). Krown needs to be reapplied annually. But it's clear and repels water even after 15 months, I went 15 months out before having the second application applied to get it closer to the winter, Nov 2015. The first application was August 2014. Cost = $130-150 per year. Im also thinking of a sacrificial anode type system designed for marine salt water application. Why anyone living in the rust belt would drive a new F series off the lot and not directly to Krown or other similar treatments baffles me. I cringe at bare undercarriages around here. Also baffling is the fact that Ford does not offer a Salt Belt winterization package. I'd gladly pay a few K for some kind of durable dip on the under structure. And how about designing some plastic wheel wells... full wheel wells that seal off the under structure similar to whats seen on the RAM 1500s. Sure would be nice to get 10 satisfied rust free years out of a 60-80K investment.
Ultimately I do have a sacrificial anode. Its called my 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee winter beater with 230K on the clock...still ticking, not rusty, no payments and goes like hell through the snow.

 

I bought a new 2014. This is my second winter (N.E. Ohio) using Fluid Film. So far so good. I will let you know in 5 or 6 years. Lol I have to believe the stuff works with all I have read. I bought the FF Kit with their own spray gun. Very easy to apply. No mess. Sure its an every fall process but I dont mind if its going to save my truck from rust.

 

Ziebart? Wow, that's a blast from the past. I had no idea those guys were still around. They must have a niche market in the Northern states.