1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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  #1  
Old 12-21-2015, 06:02 PM
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New guy from the Northwest

I've been registered here for a few years. But only when I had some other company vehicles I was working on.

Now I've finally bought my own Ford.

Picked up a 74 250 2wd Ranger XLT CS, 390 auto

I was simply looking for a good farm truck and stumbled across it on Craigslist, $500. The original owner passed away recently, his son had it posted for sale. I called but he said someone was committed to it. About a month later, he called me back and asked if I could get it off his property because the other kid flaked.

Started first crank, drove it 50 miles home without a hiccup. Not a knock or a tick, other than running very rich and smelling like all hell, I am completely in love with it.

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All I wanted was a throw away to occasionally haul stuff, I ended up with another project! Needs all new window seals bad, I can't wait to dig in!

Now, I have my work cut out for me reading here, I've browsed the tips and tricks thread. Could anyone recommend "required reading" for a first timer?

Thanks all, see you around
 
  #2  
Old 12-21-2015, 06:10 PM
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Welcome from Woodinville
 
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Old 12-21-2015, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by tubesaft
Welcome from Woodinville
Thank you

I live in Tacoma / Puyallup, I picked the truck up in Kenmore, I spent a few years working in the Bothell/Woodinville area.
 
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Old 12-21-2015, 07:39 PM
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Nice truck. For the "running rich" you may get lucky and find the choke is sticking closed. To check run it for a while to warm up and pull the air cleaner lid. Choke should be open. If not, some solvent and lubrication of the mechanism may free it up.
 
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Old 12-22-2015, 08:35 AM
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Nice find especially for that price.

Looks like we're almost neighbors.
 
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Old 12-22-2015, 08:54 AM
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When I bought my '78 it ran very rich also. The carb and linkage were way out of adjustment. I found a thread on here with the steps to adjust all the linkage (2150 two barrel) and then adjusted the fuel mixtures when I rebuilt and cleaned it. Results were good, but would have been better if the carb had less wear and the brake booster wasn't going bad. I have found that PO's who know a little bit cause more problems than those who know nothing.
 
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Old 12-22-2015, 02:45 PM
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Thanks guys, here's a few better shots now that I have a day off and it's in my yard.

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Old 12-22-2015, 03:00 PM
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Looks good. I do like the brown Ford used.
 
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Old 12-22-2015, 03:00 PM
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If I can link these without being so huge let me know and I'll change them

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  #10  
Old 12-22-2015, 03:21 PM
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I don't yet know all the common trouble spots to look for rust in. At this point the doors, rockers and pillars appear to be free from cancer. With the exception of the lower drivers side corner. The sills around ll the glass appears to be in tact. I'd I have some time after the first of the year I'll try to get the seat out and pull the carpet. The floor of the bed is solid.

I'll shamefully admit I am a child of fuel injection, blame my wayward youth but everything I've driven since the early 90s had injectors and an ecu. Carburetors are Greek to me. This will be a fun learning experience.
 
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Old 12-22-2015, 11:16 PM
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Megasquirt or VEMS (what I did) or other DIY or aftermarket EFI should fit the bill. Be warned though, the cheaper the solution the bigger you learning curve. I went super cheap and had a mountain to bash my brain on lol
 
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Old 12-23-2015, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by fishjosh
Thank you

I live in Tacoma / Puyallup, I picked the truck up in Kenmore, I spent a few years working in the Bothell/Woodinville area.
I'll keep an eye out for that truck. I'm in South Hill.
 
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Old 12-23-2015, 02:49 PM
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Welcome! Down in Chehalis here
 
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Old 12-23-2015, 05:12 PM
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Welcome from oly, moved down here from Puyallup 3 years ago. Still work up in Tacoma, Wayne we will see you around.
 
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Old 12-23-2015, 10:24 PM
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There's definitely enough there to keep you out or trouble for a while..........

It's amazing how many Washington folks are on the forum. Welcome from Port Orchard.

In addition to the floors, look close at drip rails and cab corners for rust.
 


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