So I've got a light bar on the way. Going to use 5 100 watt lights.

And I should mention first too, I will be upgrading alternator.

6 amps at 12.8 volts

Has anyone set one up, how have you set it up? I am thinking of using 2 relays, and 2 separate toggle switches.

1 Fuse per power cable going to the relays

1 Relay (40A SPDT) 1 switch with 3 lights
1 Relay (40A SPDT) 1 switch with 2 lights

Does this setup seem reasonable? I will post pics and all the fun stuff once I get it.

I plan on running the cables for the lights into some nice water proof electrical plugs and have them connect up at where the cap meets the cab of the truck, for easy removal if I need to pull into the garage.

 

Ryan , I have 2 sets of PIAA lights installed on front (bronco air) bumper and a set of fog lights on my rear bumper .Remember the relays have low power (coil only) The lights use the most amperage. I have a relay for each set of lights, using power off the battery(fused)ckt#1 for 2 relays( coil)(under hood) . The relay for the rear lights I use battery power, different battery power( c b circuit).Now the main power (HIGH AMERAGE)for each set of lights using one normally open contact off each relay, i ran another circuit( fused) for the front bumpers , #10 wire from battery fused Rear main power I use the power from my Trailer hitch. And of course if your not confused all three lights have a switch under dash using (low power Fused#1 ckt ). I also wanted my piaa (white lights) to come on when my high beams(low) were actuated. Before any extra lights were installed i had a relay for my high beams to come on low beams staying on, using low beam power off battery.(Post years ago i found).So to make the piaa lights come on when high beams(low) actuated two wires between the original relay and the piaa relay. In closing u can use two different circuits one for the coil and one for the lights(bigger wire)doesn't use any factory wire and keeps it from over loading any of the factory wiring, down side to this is u leave a switch on its off the battery, Good Luck TR

 

Thanks for the input. To make it a little easier I drew a diagram of how I believe it should be wired up.

Switches are rated for 20amp I believe.

Relays are rated for 40AMP
Lights are 100Watt 6AMP

Will be using 12 or 10 guage cabling (Most Likely 10)

Let me know what you think.

 

looks good , remember the wire from the battery to fuse block will take all the amperage of (all the lights)

 

Addition Ryan , it will take all coil amperage and light amperages. Do you have any rating on the lights( that will be the loadS)? TR

 

Switch #1 and #2 don't have to be grounded (fyi)

 

The information I posted about the lights was all I have.

I have another question, will it be okay to use 2 different gauge cabling, 10 and 12 guage? The reason why I am asking is because the pig tail that came with the relays is only a 12 gauge I believe.

 

Mind the mess surrounding the light bar. But I at least got it cut to spec to fit the truck. It's a Carr light bar from Amazon. Seems pretty solid, good reviews. These lights are just chepo Blazers. Can't spend the money on 5 good lights, we shall see how these perform. I will mainly use the lights when I play in the New England Blizzards we have at night. Mounted them all up. Been collected stuff for wiring, hoping to wire everything on Friday.

 

Ok saw the amperage ratings, nice looking light bar, consider a good ground , I upgraded my alternator to the 200 amp mean green, years back, also up graded my wiring from the alternator(it makes a difference)On our older trucks we tend to lose good grounds, I also paralled new grounds and cleaned the old grounds frame / body etc all around the truck. Good luck TR

 

Yep, I'll have to check all my grounds, I know I have one broken between the frame and body.

I got the light bar mounted today, have not wired anything yet, I'm still waiting for my wire. I do have one question, should I remove the stock wiring thats on the lights them selves and use the 10 gauge wiring that I have coming?

 

No, each light has the correct wiring,

 

Ryan you show a fuse block in your diagram, where is that fuse block?TR

 

Ok, So I did a good amount of wiring but ran out. Have more being ordered.

I haven't done much clean up yet, just trying to get everything wired. I bought a waterproof box and isolated everything for the light bar here. You can see my fuse box here, I spliced smaller gauge cable off of my main which has a redundant fuse near the battery itself.


Let me know if you have any questions. Since I am doing 2 switches I only wired up the 3 middle lights first. So that's why there is a missing fuse in the middle. The 3A fuse is for the switch. The 20A is for the relay.

 

Ryan , if you want to put some or all wires in loom , Home depot/ lowes sells it cheap, I always put a fuse near the battery. People don't understand when you use the fuse block(factory) it stresses the factory wiring (just that much more amperage added to factory).The fuse near the battery protects everything in that circuit, plus if a wire (main)rubs bare it also protects it to. GOOD looking Job? TR

 

Agreed. I'm going to pick up some of the wire loom as well from O'Reillys. It's supposed to warm up here in Mass so I should finish up this week on the wiring. And I am hoping to do wire clean up.

So I did not include it in the picture, or took a picture of it. But my main line coming off of the battery does include another single fuse connection, this is about 4 inches off of the positive battery terminal. I currently placed a 25A fuse there. Once I finish my wiring I will bump it to a 30A.