Great Work Dave as the rest of the guys said keep chit away at it and it will be worth every bit of effort you put into it and you can say that you did it all the way you wanted it

 

Great work Dave, well done.

Did you just butt weld the new lip at 90 degrees to the side panel?

I'm going to have to do this as well, but I've had it in my head that when I weld it that lip is going to want to warp/pull hard one way or the other. How did you keep it neatly at a 90 degree bend?

And how did you make the square holes? Drill regular smaller holes, then file the corners on them?

 

Thanks guys. I went a little over the top on fixing this truck to make garbage runs once a week.

Someone said they had a painter that would paint it (not for free) or spray booth (again not free) I said then I can't say I did it all myself in my garage!
The lip with the holes is flat stock thicker than the side panel that I think is 20 ga. So I was not too worried on warpping the new lip.
To keep it at a 90° I used a welding magnet that holds it at the angle. I also used other welding clamps and welded the lips before the flat panels.
Also to keep from warpping I did a lot of tack welds till it was filled in.

As for the square holes, like you said smaller hole but I have a jigsaw the blade just fit the hole. Cut just a little to make the corners then used the blade like a file to square it up. I also had a bolt to test fit the holes to make sure they would work.

I also did the holes before I welded the lip because of the flat panels on either side of the lips I would not be able to use the saw, it was cake doing it in the bench vice.

I should have taken more pictuers of just how I did it to help you and others that have to do the same fix.
Dave - - - -

 

I should also point out I welded the lips, top side only, ground the welds down before I did the flat panels repair.
That repair was just a sheet metal strip 20 ga. same thickness as the side panel, that I butt welded to the flat panel and the other side butted up to the bottom side of the lips I welded on earlier.
Because it is on the bottom and on the back side I did not worry how it looked. Even on the front side as it is covered by the fenders all but a few inches.
Dave - - - -

 

Was lazy this weekend and did not get a lot done.
Had to get pictures and find parts for other members and 1 thing lead to another and got a little done.


I bought a 90* 1/4" air grinder last week and put it to good use.
Ground down the last weld and hit some spots a larger tool can not get to.
Pulled out my larger air grinder with the Eastwood paint & rust removing pad and stripped down the insides of the 2 bed panels.
Still have the outsides of them to do yet.


Once the other sides are stripped I will spray them down with acid to kill the rust.
They also need a little hammer & dolly work and some filler in spots then prim.
Dave ----

 

Oh when working on the panels I got a call from my brother in CA. He said he was at the pick-n-pull the other day and came across a 81 flare side. He got the tail gate & hinges for me.

Little bad news, he also cut up a fender for the filler door as he knew I added a rear tank to my truck and would need a door. I told him I had 2 doors from the parts truck that I could use. He said it would be best to use the glass fender part over the metal one as I would be using fiber glass to make it happen and being the fender & the part he got are also glass would make for a better job.
He would know as he is a licensed body man in CA. and being he already cut it out and it is packed up with the gate so I will use it.

I also sent him back if the truck is there to get the tail light brackets ( said the lights were broken), the rear plate bracket if it has one(had a step bumper), the 4 rear fender braces if there and a AC compressor mounting bracket if he can find one.

Fingers cross he can come up with the parts.
Dave ----

 

When I stripped the paint/rust off the bedside panels I saw rust hiding under the paint so today I took the panels down to bare metal to get to the rust. I also stripped the front header panel.
A lot of sanding by hand as tools could not get to all the needed areas.


Once everything was stripped, sanded and dusted off I hit the panels with this acid

I will let that work to kill the rust and if it is set tomorrow and I feel up to working on it I have a little filler work that needs to be done before I can spray primer on them.


Once in primer I will set them on the bed floor that is on the truck and recheck everything before I start drilling holes in the floor to bolt the sides down.
I want to mock everything up like it will be when painted to see if there are any "GOT YOU'S!" and fix them now. After paint will be too late!


I was also thinking of how I am going to get paint on them?
I may try and hang them in a way I can get paint everywhere so the rust will not happen again (as fast!).
When I prim them will be the test I guess.


Sorry no pictures but they don't look much different than the last pictures of the side panels.
Dave ----

 

I've used Naval Jelly on cars I don't care so much about, it works OK on light stuff (and on chrome wheels).

 

I used that back in the late 70's.
I like the Oxy-Gone as it is a liquid and it will run into areas the jelly will not get at. It is just 1 tool I have to fight rust.
Dave ----

 

Nothing like getting up at 3am getting to work and get a block away with the work truck and get a call that my loads were canceled. So hour drive home, a cup of tea and out to the garage to work on the truck.

I had to wipe down the panels with water to get the acid off then dry them.
Did a little filler (Bondo) work, rechecked the panels before priming and that is where everything came to a halt! Found I did not have thinner for the primer.

Being 2pm time for lunch then picked up the much needed thinner.
I can say the 2 side panels and the front header panel are now in primer.

Next is to fit them to the floor, drill the holes and bolt them down as part of the mock up.
I also hope my brother was able to ship the tail gate as I would like to fit it as I do not know if the rear bed floor lip was made right till I get the gate.

I can almost see the paint lights at the end of the tunnel!
I have the 2 bed fenders, 1 needing a 2nd fuel door, and the hood to do body work to yet.
Dave ----

 

Lookin' good! Congrats on getting the bed straight, good luck with the tailgate.

 

Thanks
In the picture you can just make out the style side metal floor sitting on the truck frame.
It took a lot of work to get it to replace the flare side wood floor but should look factory when I am done.
Dave ----

 

Tons of progress! Keep the pics coming.

 

Dave, regarding the Oxygone. How do you treat it after you wipe and dry and before primer? Do you sand the spots? I got a gallon a while back and have been using it around the garage for other tings. I notice that it dries to a hard, slick surface.

 

I use a spray bottle and spray it if a few spots and then use a towel (part of an old tee shirt) and spread it around and get an even coat on everything.
I let it set up a day or 2 to work in and dry. On my panels I found where it was on left on paint/primer it was still wet/sticky so I wiped the panels down with a wet sponge rinsing the sponge in a bucket of water.
I than used a dry towel, old tee shirt again, to dry the panels, then another dry towel and air to blow them off & dry.
I did hit them with 120 grit paper followed with dry towel & air to blow the dirt/dust off them then primed.

That is the way I did it right or wrong only time will tell LOL
Hope that helps
Dave ----