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Fuse #22 short UPDATE

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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 05:14 PM
  #1  
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Fuse #22 short UPDATE

I've got a 97 F250 7.3, when you turn the key on fuse #22 blows. It started out blowing one about every 2-3 weeks but kept getting progressively worse, now as soon as you turn the key on it will blow the fuse. I've searched for the common fixes for this problem (unplug fuel bowl heater) but this isn't the case with my truck. I unplugged the IDM, PCM, complete glow plug harness, and the fuel bowl heater. The fuse still blows. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Update: installed a new fuse and turned the key on, the fuse didn't blow but the WTS light didn't come on so I cycled the key again and still nothing. I noticed that the odometer wasn't lit up so I checked all the fuses and they were good but not getting any power. So I'm thinking it's the PCM. Is there a way to test it?
 
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 07:20 PM
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Are you sure you are unplugging the fuel bowl heater plug? If so, disconnect the whole engine harness at the big plug on the driver side inner fender and try it then. If the fuse doesn't blow, then you know the problem is somewhere between that plug and the fuel bowl. It is a green wire with a red stripe I think.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 07:34 PM
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I'm sure it's the right plug. The heater shouldn't be shorted out though. I replaced the complete bowl about 2,500 miles ago.

Edit: the only thing that keeps the fuse from blowing is if I pull relay #5(relay closest to the fender in the underhood fuse panel). But from my understanding thats the relay that powers the circuit for fuse #22.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey519
I'm sure it's the right plug. The heater shouldn't be shorted out though. I replaced the complete bowl about 2,500 miles ago.
Try disconnecting the whole engine harness then and see if it still does it. If it doesn't, that will narrow down the area to start searching for the problem.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2015 | 02:41 AM
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How sure is sure? This sounds like a classic fuel bowl heater.

Remove the damn thing. It takes 10 minutes. A beer says you'll be up and driving.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2015 | 07:37 AM
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Disconnect the red/green small-gauge wire from the GP relay and test again.

Hmm, does anyone make a circuit breaker that fits the maxifuse sockets? Testing stuff like this with actual maxifuses gets expensive.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2015 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by madpogue
Disconnect the red/green small-gauge wire from the GP relay and test again.

Hmm, does anyone make a circuit breaker that fits the maxifuse sockets? Testing stuff like this with actual maxifuses gets expensive.
I use a stud type circuit breaker with two short wires and blade terminals. Just remember to use a breaker rated less than the fuse for the circuit.
 
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