Quick B-Mod question
Cary's B-Mod rear springs:
1) Do stock length shocks work?
2) Can Landyot RR be used in conjunction with? (Many may ask why, its because I already have them no point in getting rid of them)
3) Currently pavement mending lines, small bumps etc you feel the "jarr" in your back from the rear... Guessing the lighter springs have no spring left in them and I am feeling the bumps hitting on the shorter/stiffer portion of the leaf pack?
I have all winter to find a set of B's so just making sure I am clear on everything
Thanks
Cary's B-Mod rear springs:
1) Do stock length shocks work?
2) Can Landyot RR be used in conjunction with? (Many may ask why, its because I already have them no point in getting rid of them)
3) Currently pavement mending lines, small bumps etc you feel the "jarr" in your back from the rear... Guessing the lighter springs have no spring left in them and I am feeling the bumps hitting on the shorter/stiffer portion of the leaf pack?
I have all winter to find a set of B's so just making sure I am clear on everything
Thanks
1.) Yes, unless you see max flex articulation off road, then look for a slightly longer shock.
2.) Yes, installing Landyot RRs on mod Bs is actually easier as there is no longer the factory traction bar to cut off.
3.) Yes, most Mod B folks report a better ride and road manners over the stock springs.
Yeah, #3 question hard to describe but WE3ZS you must know what I mean.
Think I will be OK for shock length, not an off-roader and when I do its in snow not big holes or rocks
Down the road I will look for a nicer shock but in the meantime the Monroe Reflex are "fine". Did the V-code fronts and my wife commented on how much better the front felt, and asked "so how do we fix the back now?". So, going to gather parts for the b-mod and maybe nicer shocks when its time to put it all in.
Hard to describe what I am looking for but from reading a lot of other peoples stories sounds like some Skyjacker m95's might do the trick.
Yeah, #3 question hard to describe but WE3ZS you must know what I mean.
Think I will be OK for shock length, not an off-roader and when I do its in snow not big holes or rocks
Down the road I will look for a nicer shock but in the meantime the Monroe Reflex are "fine". Did the V-code fronts and my wife commented on how much better the front felt, and asked "so how do we fix the back now?". So, going to gather parts for the b-mod and maybe nicer shocks when its time to put it all in.
Hard to describe what I am looking for but from reading a lot of other peoples stories sounds like some Skyjacker m95's might do the trick.
THAT's funny, I don't know anyone but me running the M-95s ?? I love them. & think they are great for the money. I guess I gave you the short answer earlier. 1st & foremost if Tom says they will bolt up THEY WILL, However when I lift a vehicle (never lowered one yet) I try to have a better center of throw ( or travel) than you would have using a stock length shock after 2" to 3" of lift in the rear (depending on Exactly how much gain, which depends on EXactly what or how you do the B-MOD). The wimpy top mounting system & MY not so wimpy driving style of a 7500LB EX would not be a good match, I presume.


There have been so many B-MODS now I don't know what would be called "standard". I would think it is the " TOM B-MOD" W/O the 3.75 blocks.
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Daily driving like: small bumps, expansion joints on bridges, mild potholes, speedbumps etc.
Thanks!
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Can't speak to #2.
#3, you definitely feel seams, etc. more with the Modded B's - but it's still softer than say a F250 truck with an empty bed.
The V's on the front in my opinion made it ride like an Excursion should ride - firm but comfortable. The OEMs had me bottoming out any time I pulled out of my driveway let alone tried to take it down a bumpy road.
My OEM rears were fine when not towing but sagged pretty bad when hooking up our equipment trailers (they are pretty heavy). The Modded B's still sagged just a little - probably doesn't help that I carry a good 200-300lbs in the rear at all times...so I added air bags and that gives me the ability to level off when towing and run nearly empty when not towing.
The best way to describe the differences "unloaded" (not towing) on the rears would be to say that with the OEM rear springs, I could "hear" the rear axle going over seams, etc., but I didn't really "feel" it. With the Modded B's, I both hear and feel it - but a typical road seam feels less than if I were to run over one of those timing tubes they put on the roadway (you know, those air hose looking things)...so it feels more like a vibration than a bump.
Hard to describe "seat of the pants" feel, but after driving a friend's 250, I can say that swapping the Modded B's in over OEMs will feel stiffer than OEM but not as stiff as a 250 unloaded.
The V's on the front in my opinion made it ride like an Excursion should ride - firm but comfortable. The OEMs had me bottoming out any time I pulled out of my driveway let alone tried to take it down a bumpy road.
My OEM rears were fine when not towing but sagged pretty bad when hooking up our equipment trailers (they are pretty heavy). The Modded B's still sagged just a little - probably doesn't help that I carry a good 200-300lbs in the rear at all times...so I added air bags and that gives me the ability to level off when towing and run nearly empty when not towing.
The best way to describe the differences "unloaded" (not towing) on the rears would be to say that with the OEM rear springs, I could "hear" the rear axle going over seams, etc., but I didn't really "feel" it. With the Modded B's, I both hear and feel it - but a typical road seam feels less than if I were to run over one of those timing tubes they put on the roadway (you know, those air hose looking things)...so it feels more like a vibration than a bump.
Hard to describe "seat of the pants" feel, but after driving a friend's 250, I can say that swapping the Modded B's in over OEMs will feel stiffer than OEM but not as stiff as a 250 unloaded.
Daily driving like: small bumps, expansion joints on bridges, mild potholes, speedbumps etc.
Thanks!
***THE FOLLOWING STATEMENT IS NOT ENDORCED BY ANYONE ON FTE AND IS AN ATTEMPT AT HUMOR THIS SHOULD NOT BE TRIED***


You could always just run 15 to 20 PSI in your tires to soften the ride a little 







Can't speak to #2.
#3, you definitely feel seams, etc. more with the Modded B's - but it's still softer than say a F250 truck with an empty bed.
I guess I gave you the short answer earlier. 1st & foremost if Tom says they will bolt up THEY WILL, However when I lift a vehicle (never lowered one yet) I try to have a better center of throw ( or travel) than you would have using a stock length shock after 2" to 3" of lift in the rear (depending on Exactly how much gain, which depends on EXactly what or how you do the B-MOD). The wimpy top mounting system & MY not so wimpy driving style of a 7500LB EX would not be a good match, I presume.










