1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

No WTS or rpm

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  #16  
Old 12-05-2015, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ReBilld
The other is the fuel restriction sensor wire. You don't need those, so it is fine that you cut them out. You do need to make sure the one that goes to the fuel bowl heater is isolated and not touching anything. I think it is the green wire with red stripe. If you have no wait to start light, and you are 100% certain that fuses are all good, then start looking at all the grounds that connect around the fenders and core support. If those are all clean and connected good, then take the two small wires off the GPR and tape the ends up so they don't touch anything. See if you then get a WTS light. If not, you may have a bad PCM. If you know anyone that has a truck like yours, put your PCM in their truck and see if it works. Always remember to disconnect the batteries when removing and installing a PCM.
I took the 2 little wires off the relay the WTS still didn't light.i checked for voltage on the small wires one had 12v one had less than 1v.
I have 12v constant going to the GPR but nothing coming out the other side of the GPR
 
  #17  
Old 12-05-2015, 03:39 PM
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One of the small wires on the GPR should have a constant 12v. The other is a ground from the PCM. It shouldn't have any voltage on it.
 
  #18  
Old 12-05-2015, 05:18 PM
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If you have 12 volts on the small wire of the GPR (RED/LtGrn) then fuse #22 is OK. The question is do you have power to the PCM.

Power distribution is as follows ...

Fuse 22 -> PCM Power Diode -> PCM Relay coil.

Check the PCM Diode and Relay. I have never personally saw the actual diode or relay fail but if you had it at a service shop, who knows. You can swap the PCM relay with the horn relay as a test. The diode you can measure with a ohm meter.

If all that checks out then fuse 9 supplies power to the PCM relay contacts which powers up the PCM, IDM relay and IPR. Check fuse 9 really really good as if it blown due to shorted wires you will get the symptoms you are describing.
 
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Old 12-05-2015, 09:56 PM
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I found a big burned out spot inside the PCM. I replaced the PCM with another one from the same year truck now the WTS light sort of works. The WTS light flickers as the GP relay in the underhood fuse panel makes a chattering noise similar to the sound hen you have a bad battery connection and you turn the key starter solenoid makes a chattering noise. when I take one of the small wires off the GPR the chattering relay stops and so does the check engine light.are the little wires on the GPR supposed to be on the same terminal or separate terminals ? The mechanic I had decided to put them on one side
 
  #20  
Old 12-05-2015, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by therigwelder
I found a big burned out spot inside the PCM. I replaced the PCM with another one from the same year truck now the WTS light sort of works. The WTS light flickers as the GP relay in the underhood fuse panel makes a chattering noise similar to the sound hen you have a bad battery connection and you turn the key starter solenoid makes a chattering noise. when I take one of the small wires off the GPR the chattering relay stops and so does the check engine light.are the little wires on the GPR supposed to be on the same terminal or separate terminals ? The mechanic I had decided to put them on one side
One wire goes on one small post, and one on the other small post. If the so called mechanic put them on the same post, that's probably what burnt the PCM up.
 
  #21  
Old 12-05-2015, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ReBilld
One wire goes on one small post, and one on the other small post. If the so called mechanic put them on the same post, that's probably what burnt the PCM up.
Does it matter what color wires go to each post ?
 
  #22  
Old 12-06-2015, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by therigwelder
I found a big burned out spot inside the PCM. I replaced the PCM with another one from the same year truck now the WTS light sort of works. The WTS light flickers as the GP relay in the underhood fuse panel makes a chattering noise similar to the sound hen you have a bad battery connection and you turn the key starter solenoid makes a chattering noise. when I take one of the small wires off the GPR the chattering relay stops and so does the check engine light.are the little wires on the GPR supposed to be on the same terminal or separate terminals ? The mechanic I had decided to put them on one side
Anyone have an idea what's up with the relay clicking and the WTS flickering?
 
  #23  
Old 12-06-2015, 07:57 AM
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Low battery voltage.
 
  #24  
Old 12-06-2015, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by therigwelder
Does it matter what color wires go to each post ?
It doesn't matter really.

Originally Posted by therigwelder
Anyone have an idea what's up with the relay clicking and the WTS flickering?
Originally Posted by Hussler
Low battery voltage.
Low voltage, or possibly a bad relay.
 
  #25  
Old 12-07-2015, 04:33 AM
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Originally Posted by ReBilld
It doesn't matter really.





Low voltage, or possibly a bad relay.
Changed out the relay thats not chattering/clicking anymore,however the light is still flickering and the GPR is clicking/chattering.I changed the GPR out with an extra one I had and it still does it quietly.WTH ? Never seen anything like it.connections are tight and the batteries have a full charge
 
  #26  
Old 12-07-2015, 12:42 PM
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When you change out the PCM were the two small wires on the GPR still on the same terminal? Just verifying you didn't kill another computer. Also what GPR did you use, OEM or aftermarket?
 
  #27  
Old 12-07-2015, 01:14 PM
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LOAD test the batteries. Also check main battery/ground connections.
 
  #28  
Old 12-09-2015, 05:20 AM
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Where is the icp located on a 95 powerstroke?
 
  #29  
Old 12-09-2015, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by therigwelder
Where is the icp located on a 95 powerstroke?
On the driver side head toward the front right behind the A/C compressor.
 
  #30  
Old 12-09-2015, 07:41 PM
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