Cylider replacement/resurfacing
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Cylider replacement/resurfacing
Any thoughts or help here would be appreciated. I have the following vehicle/engine: 1994 Mazda B3000 with Ford V6 3.0l fuel injected engine. My question is how do I adjust valve clearance gap.
I reinstalled a surfaced cylinder head (right side) and a remanufactured one (left). I rotated the crankshaft to the A and B positions and tightened down the rocker arm bolts to 11 ft/lbs of initial torque (A = 360 degrees crank rotation from TDC #1 and B =480 degrees crank rotation from #1 TDC). However, some of the rocker arms remain tight against the valve (#3 in, #3 ex, #4 in, #5ex, #6 ex). I made sure tappets (valve lifters?) were fully seated by tapping lightly.
How is adjustment performed to establish proper valve gap?
What is the proper valve gap?
Could the improper gap be a source of overheating?
I reinstalled a surfaced cylinder head (right side) and a remanufactured one (left). I rotated the crankshaft to the A and B positions and tightened down the rocker arm bolts to 11 ft/lbs of initial torque (A = 360 degrees crank rotation from TDC #1 and B =480 degrees crank rotation from #1 TDC). However, some of the rocker arms remain tight against the valve (#3 in, #3 ex, #4 in, #5ex, #6 ex). I made sure tappets (valve lifters?) were fully seated by tapping lightly.
How is adjustment performed to establish proper valve gap?
What is the proper valve gap?
Could the improper gap be a source of overheating?
