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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

56' racecar themed F-100

 
  #16  
Old 12-01-2015, 01:35 AM
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Weld them solid (multiple tacks, not running beads to minimize warpage) before filling or else will almost be guaranteed to crack later You may find some of the info in my welding and rust repair tutorials useful: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-practice.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-try-2-a.html
But it looks like you have a pretty good handle on it going in.
 
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:00 AM
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I really like the unique project concept. Please continue to post pics as you go. It looks like you have some good fabbing skills from here. And definitely test fit the doors. I see you have the door opening braced so I'm sure you know the importance of panel alignment.
 
  #18  
Old 12-01-2015, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by fatfenders View Post
I really like the unique project concept. Please continue to post pics as you go. It looks like you have some good fabbing skills from here. And definitely test fit the doors. I see you have the door opening braced so I'm sure you know the importance of panel alignment.
Thanks. As of now, I have the doors on. So I can keep checking alignment as I weld stuff up. I already did some minor warping with the floor. Don't put a bead on sheet metal has been learned. LOL rookie
 
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Old 12-01-2015, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by chad77 View Post
Thanks. As of now, I have the doors on. So I can keep checking alignment as I weld stuff up. I already did some minor warping with the floor. Don't put a bead on sheet metal has been learned. LOL rookie
I installed a patch panel in a rear fender this week with zero warpage. I'd be lying is I said that's how it always go. I get a little impatient at times so I usually try to do something else at the same time so I can walk away and let the panel rest. My wife say's it ADHD. Maybe so lol.

The panel gap at the top is important IMO. Not much margin for error when installing the lower patch panels as it effects the vertical adjustment of of course They have to match the door bottom or it looks bad. Be in the right spot for a good weather seal up top. And hopefully have a nice door gap at the top. Mine need more adjustment as it rains inside the cab at the car wash lately.
 
  #20  
Old 12-01-2015, 10:09 AM
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If you read the weld theory section of my welding tutorial you'll learn that it is near physically impossible to avoid at least some warpage due to shrinkage along the weld seam. The thinner and flatter the panel, and longer the seam the more obvious that warpage becomes. The trick is to minimize the distortion by reducing the heat without compromising the weld penetration, expecting the shrinkage and knowing how to deal with it after it happens. Also knowing that heat from grinding can also cause difficult to deal with warpage. Using the right tools with the right techniques will reduce that problem.
If MIG welding, using my recommended ESAB Easy Grind wire in .023 diameter will make better welds with less distortion from both welding and grinding. No other wire works as well or can be substituted. Well worth the investment, an 11# spool will last a long time.
 
  #21  
Old 12-01-2015, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by AXracer View Post
If you read the weld theory section of my welding tutorial you'll learn that it is near physically impossible to avoid at least some warpage due to shrinkage along the weld seam. The thinner and flatter the panel, and longer the seam the more obvious that warpage becomes. The trick is to minimize the distortion by reducing the heat without compromising the weld penetration, expecting the shrinkage and knowing how to deal with it after it happens. Also knowing that heat from grinding can also cause difficult to deal with warpage. Using the right tools with the right techniques will reduce that problem.
If MIG welding, using my recommended ESAB Easy Grind wire in .023 diameter will make better welds with less distortion from both welding and grinding. No other wire works as well or can be substituted. Well worth the investment, an 11# spool will last a long time.
I thought using ESAB easy grind was Ron Covel's recommendation , now it's yours. Just another EGO trip I guess.
 
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Old 12-01-2015, 10:36 AM
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Looking good Chad! Keep up the good work.
 
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Old 12-01-2015, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 56panelford View Post
I thought using ESAB easy grind was Ron Covel's recommendation , now it's yours. Just another EGO trip I guess.
Yah, I first learned of it when it was recommended by Ron Covel. I tried it, I like it, I use it, and now I recommend it as well. Not an ego trip, Even RC didn't "invent" the stuff, just passing on what I believe to be helpful information. The ego trip I see is trolling the forums and making totally useless and lame posts trying to discredit others. To paraphrase my mother's advice she gave me as a small child: "if you can't say something useful and meaningful, DON'T say anything at all..."
 
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Old 12-01-2015, 03:46 PM
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Subscribed, I'm chewing on the idea of a roll cage but I don't want anything to crazy since mine will see mainly street duty with the occasional trip to the track from time to time. Mid 10sec 1/4 miles times, I'm keeping things easy. But the interior has to be modern and comfortable. Can't wait to see more good luck.

Rick
 
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Old 12-01-2015, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Ironmancan View Post
Subscribed, I'm chewing on the idea of a roll cage but I don't want anything to crazy since mine will see mainly street duty with the occasional trip to the track from time to time. Mid 10sec 1/4 miles times, I'm keeping things easy. But the interior has to be modern and comfortable. Can't wait to see more good luck.

Rick
Rick

Launch a build thread if you are serious about it. I'll warn you in advance we are going to tell you how nuts you are if you are talking a stock frame. Based on watching others try it they get real unstable before that ET (i.e. I have observed down track crashes). Mid tens would require about 500HP given the handicaps this truck will impose. If you could be content a few seconds slower then maybe its not so impossible. Place a floorjack at various points on the frame and lift the truck high from one spot at a time. Watch what your frame does. That won't work at all on the track. Note the location of the frame rails in relation to the cab. Consult an NHRA/IHRA official before you even start a cage. It will need to strengthen the frame in a major way. In addition to other measures such as tubular crossmembers done right. They will throw you off the track quick if it acts like the other fast Effie attempts I have seen in action. As they should.
 
  #26  
Old 12-01-2015, 06:28 PM
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Thank you I started a build thread a while back just haven't done enough to rate a update lately. It's a TCI rolling chassis boxed frame with a Currie 9in. I have the engine setup in the garage she made a tick over 900hp on the dyno it's a twin turbo setup. Since this is not a drag truck (she will see track time when the mood hits us) it's more a just for fun project. Safety can't be overrated. I will be turning down the boost and plan to be around 6xx whp. Thanks for the great advise fortunately I'm in no rush I want to do it right the first time. So much cheaper that way. I have last years NHRA rule book next time at the track I'll spend some time with the officials. Thanks again
 
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Old 12-01-2015, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Ironmancan View Post
Thank you I started a build thread a while back just haven't done enough to rate a update lately. It's a TCI rolling chassis boxed frame with a Currie 9in. I have the engine setup in the garage she made a tick over 900hp on the dyno it's a twin turbo setup. Since this is not a drag truck (she will see track time when the mood hits us) it's more a just for fun project. Safety can't be overrated. I will be turning down the boost and plan to be around 6xx whp. Thanks for the great advise fortunately I'm in no rush I want to do it right the first time. So much cheaper that way. I have last years NHRA rule book next time at the track I'll spend some time with the officials. Thanks again
Cool, bump that thread and get busy. I love drag racing. I smiled when I read a 10 second Effie is not a drag truck though. I'm old and trailered big block Vegas and such used to run tens in Top Sportman ET classes at most anyone's local tracks. Seems like yesterday that was very fast. I get the turbo streetability thing but that is still flyin in an Effie. You can tell me I am wrong but wait until you actually do it first.
 
  #28  
Old 12-01-2015, 08:21 PM
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Found an issue with my passenger side door hinge mount. Inside the door, the upper mount, has broken somehow. I was wondering why the right side was a bit saggy.

Doesn't look fun to fix. After I found that(because I wasn't happy with how it fit, I kept going back to it to figure it out) I took the door off and went inside. LOL

Not enough time in a night for me.
 
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by AXracer View Post
Yah, I first learned of it when it was recommended by Ron Covel. I tried it, I like it, I use it, and now I recommend it as well. Not an ego trip, Even RC didn't "invent" the stuff, just passing on what I believe to be helpful information. The ego trip I see is trolling the forums and making totally useless and lame posts trying to discredit others. To paraphrase my mother's advice she gave me as a small child: "if you can't say something useful and meaningful, DON'T say anything at all..."

It's too bad you never listened to your mother then Chuck
 
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Old 12-01-2015, 09:02 PM
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Anyone with a truck, 56', that has the original floor in it ? Can you give me some door measurements on the cab where the door sits when closed?(horizontal measurement)

If that makes sense. Should be around 36" in the main panel, inside to inside?
 

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