I have spent a ton of money and time on this 95 f350 7.3. I have a no start condition.I got it running a few months ago,I have changed everything related to the glow plug system and had the WTS light working and the truck was running fine except for intermittent killing that would leave you stranded but it always managed to start.recently the truck quit running so I assumed the IPR finally quit.I.did not have time to fix the truck so I sent it to a mechanic.the mechanic put it in his scanner and found the EBP and the IPR was bad .the mechanic decided he could fix the truck ,he never got it fixed,I was forced to go get the truck and tow it my house.the truck is now a disaster the wires were cut on the IPR and run straight to the battery,so the wiring harness is destroyed.I've managed to figure what two wires come out of the harness to the IPR.I have got another IPR from a running truck and installed it and connected the wires back.I can get the engine to start on starting fluid but it dies as soon as the ether is gone.also the WTS light no longer works and I have already checked the fuses.also my snap on 2500 scanner will light up but not communicate with my truck which it previously did.I need this truck to move my camper in 2 weeks but I am so ready to roll it to the junkyard

 

Any idea what kind of scan tool your mechanic friend had? I do know only certain scan tools will communicate with these trucks. I don't know if a Snap-On will. A faulty IPR will keep it from starting. EBPV will not keep it from starting. With no WTS, nothing will work like it should. That needs to be addressed first.

Unplug the heater in the fuel filter housing, then replace the blown fuse.

Repair the plug for the IPR, (why the hell would someone cut that?!!) See if you get a WTS.

Take the can of ether and put some place where you will never find it again unless you want to remove the heads in a very quick manor. Glow plugs and ether can separate the heads from the block in spectacular fashion!

Check your glow plug relay and make sure it's working.

You may as well have a battery charger hooked up while all this is going on.

Once this has been accomplished, check oil level in both the HPOP reservoir and the crankcase.

Check fuel level in filter housing.

When cranking, look for smoke coming out the exhaust pipe.

If no start, but smoke is coming out exhaust, plug in block heater for an hour or so. Then retry.

If no start, but no smoke either, check voltage in batteries, HPOP reservoir level, and try again.
Still no start after that, check oil again.

 

Agreed with everything above. Put the ether away or it will initiate your junkyard run.

Secondly the mechanic you took it too isn't one at all, sounds like an effing idiot to me to hardwire the IPR to the battery.

Like mentioned without a WtS light there is no power to your pcm, and it will never run no matter what you try. Address as mentioned above and then come back and we can trouble shoot from there. Replace your #22 fuse and unplug your bowl heater and start from there.

I'd honestly go back to the mechanic and treat him to a short dirt nap if he did that to my truck.

 

Sounds like all it needed to begin with was a CPS. The "mechanic" probably caused you a lot more problems than what you originally had.

 

Your symptoms sound like what happened to my old 250, my vote is you have a dead pcm.

 

Fuse #22 under the hood. IF not then IPR or ICP. BTW my fuse 22 blew but you couldn't see that it was blown unless you held a flashlight behind it. Hairline fracture. Got a new fuse and fired right away. Also, dammit check the oil level ! Lol. Same thing happened to me. Always died on the road. Checked the oil. Low. Need enough to feed that lpop. Never dies anymore. Hope any of this helped, cause it sure helped me.