Before I install the new Radiator I would like to flush out the system as best I can.

Is it feasable to simply run a garden hose down the thermostat housing and let it come out the lower hose?

Or maybe rig up some kind of adapter from a hose to the OD of the thermostat housing to flush it under pressure?

I am even thinking of using one of those rubber pressure bags for clearing drain stoppages that attaches to a garden hose.

Both heater cores have been bypassed and I cannot access the rear core where it was bypassed. I have no idea how the front one was bypassed either.

Thanks.

 

I picked up a spectra from pep boys, and a stant cap. I had a coupon for $25 off if I spent over $100. Total came to $137.
I asked the salesman what the warranty is, he said lifetime on defects then I asked what happens if I leaks in one year and he told that is wear and it is not covered. Just as I suspected, THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A LIFETIME WARRANTY! If it leaks in a year or at all YOU have to prove that it is defective in order to have a warranty honored. None the less, It was only $140 and hopefully I can have my other one rebuilt before the new one starts to leak.

Parts I have compiled:

Radiator
Bypass hose
New theromostat,
New lower hose (already have a new upper one)
New Thermostat gasket
New Oil cooler adapter
New cap

Just need antifreeze

Cheers

 

Sounds like you will have it back on the road soon! I still need to change my temp sender and see if that fixes mine.. My moms aluminum radiator has been in her van for 8 years now and still doing good.. I have seen the plastic tank ones crack around the cap and leak where the tank is clamped to the core.. But i have read they are supposed to be good on average for 10 years..

Was your original all metal?

If you store your old one, remember what the radiator shop told me. If it was stored dry, the gunk inside will dry and harden to the point to where it cant be removed.. I did some searching on that and there appears to be allot of people arguing about this.. But allot of sites about storing old cars say to fill the rad with pure antifreeze to stop corrosion at the solder joints and keep them from drying out.. one of my vans is 3 years old and the other pushing that, and still have the original rads and they both sat for a long time with coolant in them..

 

Just a suggestion, NEVER take what you're told at the parts store as gospel. Some parts guys are really good, but others don't really have a clue. Sounds like you got one of the latter.

You won't find a warranty statement that uses any term other than "defects in materials and workmanship". That includes parts, vehicles, electronics, appliances, and anything else you can think of that comes with a warranty. You don't have to prove a thing; the fact that it's not holding pressure is proof of defect. The catch typically is that they warrant to only the original purchaser, and you must provide proof of purchase. Walk in there a year from now with a receipt and a leaky radiator they will give you another one free of charge.

If you rebuild your old one because of fear of new materials I will start trying to sell you a bridge in Arizona. They can last decades.

ON edit: Looks like Spectra Premium radiators come with a 2-year warranty. http://www.spectrapremium.com/products/radiators.html

 

Anna: yea the one I hav now is all metal. I plan to keep it and possibly have it recored for future use, Just dont know how long I will have the van.

Tom: Yea, salesguy didnt really know he was saying.
I sell plumbing parts/fixtures and theres always a caveat with warrantys, sometimes if a part is not installed by a licensed plumber the manufacturer will not honor a warranty, or if there is a warranty, labor may or not be covered for the warranty installation.
I hope it lasts at least two years... LOL.


Thanks.

 

You already mentioned flushing the block,, and heater core... Yes that's a must according to this article about switching from brass to aluminum..

Premature Failure of a Replacement Aluminum Radiator

Aluminum VS. Copper-Brass Radiator: Price and Maintenance

If you are switching from a copper-brass radiator to an aluminum one, and you don’t flush and replace your coolant, then you are pretty much guaranteed to have the aluminum radiator fail. Why? Again, most people forget to regularly replace their coolant, and they will typically reuse the existing coolant if it looks clean. Therein lies the problem. The existing coolant will be depleted of the corrosion inhibiting additives and it will be carrying trace materials from the solder in the copper-brass radiator. Putting that mix into an aluminum radiator will result in accelerated galvanic corrosion. As we stated before, you cannot judge the quality of your coolant by color alone. Regular service intervals and replacing the coolant along with the radiator will pay off in the long run.


You also need to keep up the maintenance flush and change it regularly.. Since you have a cast iron block and aluminum mixed, if the anti corrosion chemicals in the antifreeze break down, it will cause premature failure of the new radiator..



I always maintain mine... Especially after dark, as the outside temperature is just above freezing, the wind is blowing, and the next morning will be the first deep freeze of the year! Normally requires a trip to the local 24 hr convenient store to buy a high priced gallon of antifreeze because the auto parts stores are closed at that time of night. All the while thinking, I should have done this last month!

 

Well, I got the new radiator installed with new hoses, new bypass hose,

new thermostat gasket etc... Filled it with premixed antifreeze but only got

about 2 thirds of the old coolant out. (I think) I filled it with 12 quarts,

supposed to be 20.

I let it idle for a while, took it for a test drive only about a mile and got it

up to temp, it did not overheat. When I got it home I pulled up the lever

on the cap, removed the cap and started it, I could not see the antifreeze

flowing. I know the new thermostat works because I tested it and it does

open.

Maybe it didnt get hot enough?

Tomorrow I am going to take it for a longer drive.


Thanks.

 

I've never opened the radiator cap of a warm engine to see if coolant is flowing, so I'm not even sure if you'd see anything flowing during normal operation. I'd assume if you let it idle to the point where the thermostat was open all the way(>200 degrees) you may see some motion. I don't really see see the point though.

Drive the van. If your temperature stabilizes then your cooling system is working.

 

Yea, but Im paranoid.... LOL. I Thought maybe seeing the pump actually working would ease my mind about weather the overheating problem was the radiator or the pump. the Radiator and the oil cooler adapter had to be replaced anyway.

Thanks Tom.

 

Taking of the cap after the engine is hot is dangerous.

I've looked in and seen water moving before but not on a late model Ford van.
I've done it to see if water is moving, pulsing up and down, to bleed the system and to see if a t-stat has opened.

 

I understand. I use leather gloves, a full facemask, and rags wrapped

around the cap. I use the caps that have the lever to relieve pressure into

the overflow canister.

Thanks.

 

My cooling system test suit. Some might think this is overboard, but one can never be too safety conscious! $29.95 at the thrift store! tester free

 

LOL, Thats a little bit too much work to put all that on.

 

So....we're waiting......


Did it overheat?

 

Sorry.... I was going to post just after the last post but got sidetracked.

No it did not, I drove it about 3 miles, mostly freeway and really worked

it, got it up to 85 mph, (sshhh dont tell anyone) because I really wanted to

give it a harsh test. The gauge actually stayed a bit lower than usual and

then it moved up the the spot it is usually at when I got off the

freeway. I do have only one very small weeping leak at some unknown

connection to the radiator. I have another thread about it.

Thanks.