I've got nothing in my interior - not afraid to tackle it myself - just wondering what material to use and where to get big sheets of it...

 

ABS is good...very workable and is impervious to moisture. Not as cheap as pressboard or some of the other wood-based products but it doesn't warp/decompose.

 

I agree with Charlie. ABS is inexpensive very available in several thicknesses and sheet sizes at any plastics supplier or online. It's tough if not nicked, can be cut with a saw or scored lightly with a sharp knife and snapped, can be sanded, glued with ABS plumbing pipe cement, heat formed with an industrial heat gun, or heated with a homebuilt electric heat panel and draped or vacuum formed into 3D shapes. One side of the sheet is smooth and the other side has a leather-like texture similar to most late model interior panels (which are often ABS) so it can be painted with paints for flexible plastic or it also takes contact or spray upholstery glue tenaciously, making it easy to cover with upholstery material. It can be drilled with a step drill run at a slow to moderate speed with light pressure and soft wood backer. High speeds and/or a dull drill will melt it into a mess tho.

 

Many articles on the HAMB about using Sintra PVC, GraphicDisplay USA

More heat-formable than ABS. "Truxx" on here is an interior whiz, may want to PM him.

 

Is it your intent to cover the panels with fabric? Or do you desire a stock appearance?

 

I'm not going for stock, just something decent looking - I've got non-stock seats already and will likely fabricate an overhead console as well.

 

You'll want to go plastic as the others have suggested then. Keep it thin unless you are planning to extend your handle shafts anyway.

 

On my 54, I covered the door access panel with black vinyl (truck is red)

 

Any big box or chain stores that carry this stuff in large sheets, or will I need to order online (I suspect shipping will be disproportionately expensive due to size)

 

Why not just buy the ready to fit ABS panel kit from Midfifty, they are a perfect fit and you can also get the pre-cut insulation kit as well. Simple.
http://www.midfifty.com/item.php?INV_ID=7170

you can also purchase the pieces individually too if you wish.

 

I think your budget is better than some of us here 56panel. You can achieve very satisfactory DIY solutions for some of these mods. No offense intended. It's just how it is.

 

Depends on how much time and fuss you like to spend on it, sometimes it's worth spending a little more out front for something that works first time. Often times it turns out to be cheaper.
I made all my interior panels for my panel but for this pickup I just bought the kit to speed things up when the time comes and my budget is not much better than anyone else here, I'm pretty much at a stand still at the moment.

 

Labor of love for me. Figuring out when it makes sense to DIY is the trick.

Some of my flat interior panels are masonite and glass for customized audio install. Fit like a glove and worked for over 12 years so far. Covered in fabric that wasn't cheap of course. I get a lot of compliments on my interior. My only interior fails are fabric pulling loose from expensive store bought F100 ABS panels. I need to revisit the glue choice when I repair.

 

ABS is available at most any larger plastics distributors, do a search for local plastics suppliers. May need to be special ordered from them if you live in the nether-lands. Panels large enough for doors etc can be ordered on line (ebay etc) shipping is reasonable as they are light weight.
Sintra is the stuff supermarket foam meat trays are made from. It's available at DIY stores in accordion fold bundles for use under vinyl siding. It's popular with the RC airplane crowd for building quick and cheap electric powered RC airplanes. Not near as rigid/sturdy as ABS but very lightweight inexpensive and formable.

Fenders: scuff up with some 40 grit paper and wipe clean if gluing to the smooth side of ABS. Use high quality spray general purpose or upholstery contact cement in rattle cans like 3-M 77 or 3-M 82. Spray both surfaces, allow to dry separated until just barely sticky to the back of a knuckle touch (no threads pulled up or residue on knuckle, 5 minutes or so.) Then press together firmly. A rubber brayer (roller) or a hard rubber sanding block and mallet can be used to assure a solid bond that won't pull free without destroying fabric. If using on a woven fabric apply liberally but not heavy enough to penetrate thru. Cover all work surfaces with multiple layers of clean paper, immediately remove dispose of any that gets overspray on it. Be careful not to get on face surfaces (of panels, not body if you get on your face you've done something very wrong! ), hands etc. Clean hands of residue with solvent before handling.

 

Thanks Chuck,

The 3M glue is what I used. 3M makes some stronger stuff but it is tricky with cloth because it can soak through without extreme care. (3M 8080 I think). I'll have to wait until I get it pulled down to see where it let go. It seems like it is still stuck to the Rod Doors ABS and not the cloth but I can't be certain of that until I drop the head liner. In any event it lasted over 10 years so I can't complain about the need to touch up a few things on the truck.

I do remember GearUp telling me to use the other 3M glue for longterm success on the headliner but I was mostly done by then.