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I just looked at the one on our 5er and while it has a tiny bit of wear on the tabs, just minimal otherwise after 12K miles, with about 7K on a single recent trip. The spare one - and after posting earlier, is from the traded 5er (CRS problem) that the dealer retrieved for me and that one after many, many miles and years, even less wear.
Looking at the photos, it almost looks more like vibration/chucking back and forth (British roads? ) or possibly a slightly loose pin box
By the pictures. I am wondering if the lube plate is snug on the pin. Pin diameter could be the problem. Metric.
Can you spin the lube plate on the fifth wheel?
No such thing as a metric pin they are all the same size. I would check to see if you have any fore and aft play between pin and the hitch jaws. I have over 30K on mine (1/4 in. thick white) with no noticeable sign of wear other than circular scratches from turning corners. Friend wore one out is less than 2500 miles because of slop in hitch jaws, it doesn't take much.
As said the pin size is international & both the trailer & the hitch came from the USA anyway, the hitch was a used item so I have no idea how much use it has had, I know the pin is good as I bought the trailer from a friend who owned it for 6 years & all the time he used it with a gooseneck adapter. There is nothing visibly worn with the jaws but I'm thinking that as they are a relatively low cost part I will get some anyway.
My trailer came with one too but as others have noted, when they drop down or you try to attach when too low, they get crumpled. I've never gone back to CW to pick another one up so I just clean and grease my plate regularly.
Not mentioned above, but I make it a point to grease the pin and jaws at the same time.
Kind of like forgetting to lube a tow ball...grinding and clunking is not a good thing!
My trailer came with one too but as others have noted, when they drop down or you try to attach when too low, they get crumpled. I've never gone back to CW to pick another one up so I just clean and grease my plate regularly.
Not mentioned above, but I make it a point to grease the pin and jaws at the same time.
Kind of like forgetting to lube a tow ball...grinding and clunking is not a good thing!
I've never even bothered with those lube plates... been a truck driver over 10 yrs.. first thing I did before I ever hooked my 5th wheel up to my f350 was smear some 5th wheel grease on the kingpin, plate and the locking jaws.. even with the lube plate the jaws and pin still require grease or they will wear prematurely, and be noisy.
Nothing worse than getting grease on your cloths or anything else in the back of the truck, I'll stick with the lube plate.
X2.
Been there with the grease - wont go back to that mess. On top of that, you do have to clean that grease off with a putty knife a few times a year, getting that dirt covered crud off so you can replace it so more dirt can collect then you can start all over again. For 8 to 12 bucks - a lube plate is worth it to me plus is paid for vs. a couple tubs of grease in a couple years.
No grease for me either... The lube plate I have is easily 1/8" thick - maybe 3/16".. I make sure that when I disconnect I have just a hairline crack of air between the lube plate and the 5th wheel hitch. I try for the same when hooking up too.. That may be one of the reasons I have so much trouble with the Reese HD hitch to release.
No grease for me either... The lube plate I have is easily 1/8" thick - maybe 3/16".. I make sure that when I disconnect I have just a hairline crack of air between the lube plate and the 5th wheel hitch. I try for the same when hooking up too.. That may be one of the reasons I have so much trouble with the Reese HD hitch to release.
When disconnecting, raise the king pin up enough to make the most of the weight off...but also check the jaw. Make sure you don't raise it so that the king pin will interfere with jaw when pulling it open.
X2 with Scott's reply. I generally lift the trailer just so it comes free of the hitch. Also, If you back in, you will be putting pressure on the jaws which will make it difficult - at least with a B&W hitch. Usually what I do is chock the trailer wheels both ways to prevent the 5er from rolling and leave the truck without the E-brake engaged then pull the release. If it's wedged against the jaws, the truck can move just a little and release the pin. Also, not sure with a Reese, but one brand recommends that you don't use a lube plate. Dumb, yes, but it may be that you have one of those hitches. Regardless, I really like one of those pant savers and will always use one
When disconnecting, raise the king pin up enough to make the most of the weight off...but also check the jaw. Make sure you don't raise it so that the king pin will interfere with jaw when pulling it open.
Yeah, it's pretty dark down in there and hard to see.. Next time I will get down in there with a flashlight.. The Reese hitch I have is the single jaw 26k hitch. That jaw is very thick and I just now realized that the thickness of the lube plate combined with lifting the trailer until I could see a crack of light - well I could be binding up the bottom of the jaw with the lip on the end of the king pin..
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