Whiskey Tango Foxtrot.. over!

Does this truck really have an open rear diff.

So I back into a yard, pretty firm, to ****** a tree stump. Right rear tire spins, and packed full of mud, the other three high and clean. Someone please tell me I just have a worn out clutch pack in a limited slip?

 

more info purty please, and your axle code is on the door jam. i have an open diff but before snow fall i will have a true trac in.

 

I've got a limited slip. It's as useless as **** on a bull

Edit. Unless your into that kind of thing

 

I've got axle code 39. Should be 3.55's. I had a LS in 8.8 in my 2003 Mustang. It would give up a little. Then I changed the 3.23 to 3.73 and re-shimmed and and installed new clutch disks. It would lay 2 very nice black lines down, with I think the drivers side fading barely before the passenger. I know LS diff clutches and springs can wear, but this thing acts like straight open diff. I searched this and a couple other forums, and guys where talking about welding the diff, and buying LS diffs, which led me to believe that open diff's did exist in these trucks.

 

Yes they did exist. However, at 18+ years old, and who knows how many miles and services, it could be completely worn out like mine

 

Axle code 39 would be an open diff 3.55, as per this page Ford Axle Code Chart - Ford-Trucks.com a limited slip 3.55 is a C3 coded axle.
My bad, it should be a code C9 for a 3.55 limited slip. Don't know why I hit C3.

 

BOOOO!! So I suppose my best option is to find a junk yard C3? I imagine an aftermarket limited slip is $400 + then you have to set it up and all.

 

The only thing bad about a junk yard rear, is you won't know the conditions of the clutches. If you have to rebuild the thing, you would probably have about as much into it as getting an aftermarket locker. See my edit above, you need a C9 coded rear.

 

I just caught that. I think I paid about $60 for my clutch kit on the Mustang. The rest is bearings and such, which I'd still have to buy with a new diff.

 

Clutches for these are in the 200$ range. Aftermarket is 700+

 

well it sure sucks to know that the truck is completely useless on anything other than concrete

 

I have had good with the junk yard one I found. There is a way to check the clutch pack. IIRC if the rear end is off the ground and you turn one wheel then the other one should turn in the same direction. When I pulled mine the fluid was nice and clean and there was no junk in the bottom of the chunk which made me feel pretty good about it. And worst case was that it acted like the open rear I already had. So I was good with the risk

 

What is IIRC? Yes, as long as the pinion can spin freely. If the pinion does turn freely, and if you hold one wheel stationary, there should be noticeable resistance to turn the free tire. Also, if the pinion does not rotate freely, the wheels should have a good bit of resistance and spin opposite. That resistance is the clutch and spring pack.

 

Now the hard part is finding one worth buying...

 

IIRC--if I remember correctly