Operating Temperatures
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
2x.. here's a tech tip on the sealing the intake to the block using no end wall gaskets.... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14742237
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
I like the idea of The Right Stuff sealant. Picking some up tonight. MSDS says it has a 2 hour cure, 24 hour full time on it. Can you get away with 2-3 hour before startup or is that pushing the limit? Would be nice to leave it for 3-4 hours then get to tuning.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 10
Yeah... the electric fan on there now only shrouds about 16.5" square. Ordered the MarkVIII fan today and will swap it with the one in there now.
As far as the plugs go, this engine is full reman. They pull every plug, rod and boil and boil again if necessary. Very reputable company so I am not worried about the condition of the coolant passages. The heat is definitely getting to the coolant. It's whether it is getting out of the coolant that is questionable.
As far as the plugs go, this engine is full reman. They pull every plug, rod and boil and boil again if necessary. Very reputable company so I am not worried about the condition of the coolant passages. The heat is definitely getting to the coolant. It's whether it is getting out of the coolant that is questionable.
The factory shroud has a large area so at speed air flow is high. This is what I run. The Lincoln fan has been proven on these rigs so that should be good also with suitable alternator. If you can get to and from the highway with minimal stop and go, you might try running a test with no fan or shroud at all. I'd bet it runs 185 or so while rolling with 180 stat.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
The temperature rating on a thermostat (i.e. 160°F, 180°F, 195°F, etc.) isn't the temperature rating of when the thermostat will be fully opened. It's the 'cracking' temperature rating (within 3°-4° of what's stamped on the thermostat) of when the thermostat will BEGIN to open. It will take another 15°-20° above the t-stat rating for it to be fully open.
Stant
Stant
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
okay...Here is a thought... Is there any possible restriction points in a stock manifold that could cause slow flow that can't be seen (hidden ports or what not only accessible via plugs) that could also be causing me flow restriction getting coolant out of the heads and block? The old block was icky. This is the same intake and it has not been boiled. Would upgrade to an Edelbrock Perfomer but I can't seem to find a 2bbl version and I don't want to buy another carb since this one is brand new. Also don't want the crap fuel mileage of the 4bbl.
Man... I have way too much idle head time to ponder this stuff.
Man... I have way too much idle head time to ponder this stuff.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 375
Likes: 3
From: Southern OR
"I like the idea of The Right Stuff sealant. Picking some up tonight. MSDS says it has a 2 hour cure, 24 hour full time on it. Can you get away with 2-3 hour before startup or is that pushing the limit? Would be nice to leave it for 3-4 hours then get to tuning."
You'll be fine. I've used the Right stuff on a lot of different things with immediately going back into service. You get what you pay for. It is "definitely the Right Stuff"...
You'll be fine. I've used the Right stuff on a lot of different things with immediately going back into service. You get what you pay for. It is "definitely the Right Stuff"...
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 375
Likes: 3
From: Southern OR
Oh and you don't need to dimple the block or anything when using The Right Stuff. It's not a slippery silicone product (like Permatex blue for example). It adheres really well to smooth clean steel. It has a graphite feel to it when you use it. You'll see
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,388
Likes: 138
From: Northern California
okay...Here is a thought... Is there any possible restriction points in a stock manifold that could cause slow flow that can't be seen (hidden ports or what not only accessible via plugs) that could also be causing me flow restriction getting coolant out of the heads and block? The old block was icky. This is the same intake and it has not been boiled. Would upgrade to an Edelbrock Perfomer but I can't seem to find a 2bbl version and I don't want to buy another carb since this one is brand new. Also don't want the crap fuel mileage of the 4bbl.
Man... I have way too much idle head time to ponder this stuff.
Man... I have way too much idle head time to ponder this stuff.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 375
Likes: 3
From: Southern OR
Manifolds aren't going to cause an overheating issue; FE's have dry manifolds. No water flows through them. And 4bbls are more efficient than 2bbls. Same flow but 4bbls usually run on the primary 2 venturi until you mash the accelerator and run it wide open where it needs the flow of all 4 venturi to meet the flow demand.
Water flows through the intake manifolds on FE's
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
OH MAN... this is the truck that just keeps on giving. Freakin posessed. One step forward. Nope, not happening.
So... I put a long block in to solve the issues I was having with the old, worn out engine. NOW, I got the intake resealed and retimed and tuned and the engine won't turn over when it is above 170 degrees. Yep, I know the drill. Timing too far advanced? Nope. Starter causing issues. Nope. That is brand new and cranks like a demon. Weak battery? Nope. Good wiring? Yes. Run the engine and as it warms up, it starts running worse and worse. Shut it down at about 170 or 180 and try to crank it, clunk, raaa. No crank. I put a ratchet on the crank bolt and tried to turn it and it is so friggen tight. Would take a breaker bar to rotate it. Let it cool down to 150 or below and it cranks. Someone botched it and put the wrong bearings in it. I am so frustrated. Gotta call the builder and see what they plan to do about it. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. I hate this truck. I am too far into it to abandon the project now.
So... I put a long block in to solve the issues I was having with the old, worn out engine. NOW, I got the intake resealed and retimed and tuned and the engine won't turn over when it is above 170 degrees. Yep, I know the drill. Timing too far advanced? Nope. Starter causing issues. Nope. That is brand new and cranks like a demon. Weak battery? Nope. Good wiring? Yes. Run the engine and as it warms up, it starts running worse and worse. Shut it down at about 170 or 180 and try to crank it, clunk, raaa. No crank. I put a ratchet on the crank bolt and tried to turn it and it is so friggen tight. Would take a breaker bar to rotate it. Let it cool down to 150 or below and it cranks. Someone botched it and put the wrong bearings in it. I am so frustrated. Gotta call the builder and see what they plan to do about it. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. I hate this truck. I am too far into it to abandon the project now.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,388
Likes: 138
From: Northern California
Yeah it does. That was one of the dumbest things I have said on here. Where the heck did I read that...
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,388
Likes: 138
From: Northern California
I was staring at my engine today thinking the same thing. I know I read that dumb crap on here somewhere. When I find it I will call them out.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Finally Resolved!!!!
OH MAN... this is the truck that just keeps on giving. Freakin posessed. One step forward. Nope, not happening.
So... I put a long block in to solve the issues I was having with the old, worn out engine. NOW, I got the intake resealed and retimed and tuned and the engine won't turn over when it is above 170 degrees. Yep, I know the drill. Timing too far advanced? Nope. Starter causing issues. Nope. That is brand new and cranks like a demon. Weak battery? Nope. Good wiring? Yes. Run the engine and as it warms up, it starts running worse and worse. Shut it down at about 170 or 180 and try to crank it, clunk, raaa. No crank. I put a ratchet on the crank bolt and tried to turn it and it is so friggen tight. Would take a breaker bar to rotate it. Let it cool down to 150 or below and it cranks. Someone botched it and put the wrong bearings in it. I am so frustrated. Gotta call the builder and see what they plan to do about it. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. I hate this truck. I am too far into it to abandon the project now.
So... I put a long block in to solve the issues I was having with the old, worn out engine. NOW, I got the intake resealed and retimed and tuned and the engine won't turn over when it is above 170 degrees. Yep, I know the drill. Timing too far advanced? Nope. Starter causing issues. Nope. That is brand new and cranks like a demon. Weak battery? Nope. Good wiring? Yes. Run the engine and as it warms up, it starts running worse and worse. Shut it down at about 170 or 180 and try to crank it, clunk, raaa. No crank. I put a ratchet on the crank bolt and tried to turn it and it is so friggen tight. Would take a breaker bar to rotate it. Let it cool down to 150 or below and it cranks. Someone botched it and put the wrong bearings in it. I am so frustrated. Gotta call the builder and see what they plan to do about it. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. I hate this truck. I am too far into it to abandon the project now.
But damn does it run nice. Now on to the next part of the money pit... Thanks to all that helped me get through the ugly parts. I love this forum! No, I have not been drinking. But seriously... Love you man! HA