So I picked up a 00 EX XLT V10 with 168k on the clock and 4.30 gears. and IM looking for a few suggestions (yes Im still reading different threads) but figured I start a new one for my EX. to help hurry a few things. wish it was a 7.3 motor as Ive had two. but they are double the price. seems to run good. front seems loose, but when I got the oil changed I asked to check the ball joints. seemed good so IM guessing tires as they are bad.

my uses for the rig are simply getting out of my driveway in deep snow when it blows, road trips, exploring the woods and camping. other wise it will sit as I have a commuter car for to and from work.

Previous owner recently did plugs/coils, sway bar bushings, belt, air filter, slotted brakes (but ABS light is still on) coolant flush. that is all I can think of at the moment. I bought it before the shop that did the brakes could check on why the ABS lights were still on. so I guess its on me now.

I have already replaced the steering stabilizer and got parts to replace the driver lock button, idler pulley as its looks original and tensioner pulley. figured the bearings can go any time and its an easy replace.

-So my plans are....
-warm hubs (waiting in OR for when I visit
t)
-front, rear diffs and transfer case (amsoil) possibly
-fuel tank float,
-seat foam or might just switch the passenger butt part to driver side for me
-tires/shocks and possibly lift, (happened across some cool rims on sale 17x9) so ill be upgrading when I get the tires.
I could just get tires and shocks with my new rims, but was thinking a leveling kit or up to 4' lift. goal would be 33-34" tires I guess. buddy wants me to do 35's so I can buy his MTR's, but they are C rated.
-head lights eventually as mine are cloudy.
-rear driver side door lock actuator doesn't work
-Driver window goes down to about 1/4 left and gets really slow.
-some rust spots Ill sand and touch up by the window seals.
-tranny flush

current measurements
FL 22.5
FR 231/4
both rear are 24.5
so I only have one sagging it seems like.

First off I have to get the fuel gauge working and its stuck on full. and will take that to a shop as I dont have any more jacks and stands anymore. and its just easier, winter like still here in Montana and I know as soon as I drop the tank a storm will roll in and im working on it outside. will probably do the fuel pump since Im in there. assuming its original.

Tires ands shocks will be if I decide to lift and IM already leaning that way. as for Tires, I Like KO2's (owed them and liked them) and also looking at Falken Wild peaks. but open to suggestions.
I think a Revtek 2.5 leveling kit will suffice for my needs. and a buddy that is a spring guy will make me some custom ones to replace the block that usually comes with the leveling kit. he lives in another town, other wise id probably have it just do the whole thing. but logistics prevent that. and I am open to suggestions. local shop already gave me a quote for a ProComp leveling kit. and I need or want to decide soon, as my tires are bad and I already have trips planned. so I need the tires and such on and running.

I know there are tons of options for lifts or leveling kits. even F250 springs etc. Id like to hear from Pirate about his lift. I read somewhere he like keep it lower with bigger tires ands I think he runs a 40' tire.
I dont plan on re-gearing and feel 33-34" tires with sky 4.30 gears will be just fine for my needs.
-I am curious how big of tire I can run "Inside" the rig. my current 305-70-16 fits, but its tight. not sure a 34 will fit. no plans on getting a rear bumper to hold the spare. but figured Id ask.

ill think about stereo later, but so far it works and that is all that matters at this point.

not sure I covered everything I had questions for, but IM sure Ill think of several at a later time.

thanks for taking the time to read and share your thoughts. IM excited to get my EX dialed in for summer plans.

 

lots going on in this thread

my thoughts,

“front feels loose”
there are many more parts other then balljoints that need to be checked.

steering input shaft/joint
steering gear
pitman arm
drag link TRE
tie rod TRE
wheel bearings
ubolts
leaf spring bushings
shackle bushing
shocks
and yes tires.

in these older vehicles it is typically all of those worn to some degree and each of those small tolerances variations add up.

then on top of that your sagged spring is affecting your alignment and that can drastically affect handling.

the rims pictured look like to have incorrect back spacing and would need spacers

any finally the suspension on my excursion is a 4 link coilover that I put together, the closest “kit” that would be similar is the Full Traction coilover conversion kit.

 

thanks for the reply and yes I figured the front end things you listed are possible issue with a little loose front end. that is why I was going with a leveling kit as that will give me shocks, springs and the new tires etc. should fix some of those mentioned . not planning on going crazy on lift with a coil over conversion. but thanks for sharing.
as for the rims. I hope not I dont really want to run spacers. but we shall see when I finally get to mount them. but after looking I think your right. Ill have to check the box and se what they are. what is recommended?

 

Use only E rated tires on an Excursion.

 

why do you say that ?

what is wrong with a load range D that is a higher service description and has a higher max load rating ?

example:
37x12.5x17 Bfg km3
Load Index 124Q
max load 3525 lbs
load range D

vrs the same tire in a smaller size but lower service description and lower Max load.

265/70-16
Load Index 118Q
max load 3125 lbs
load range E

my point being is the “load range” is a antiquated reference that harkens back to Bias ply tires and is a poor indicator for modern tires. the service description is a better specifications for a tires weight capacity.

the load range designation varies by a tires volume where as the service designation is fixed. a Load Index 121 is always going to be 3197 lbs regardless of tire size where as Load range is a variable number that combined with the Ply rating was meant to compare radial tires to bias ply tires, it may of been a useful tool back in the early 1970’s when radials were the new kid on the block but I think we can agree that time has past.

 

because what I said was a lot more simple than all of that you wrote. I doubt most c rated tires have enough capacity.

 

One good outcome for E rated tires is higher air pressure. I gauge my tire pressure by checking the inside/middle/outside of the tread with a pyrometer. If my temps are all the same, I know that I will get the tire's longest life span. I also know if my alignment is in check. The Es with high pressure relate to better corner handling, better load handling and gas mileage.

 

anybody know the biggest tire you can hold in the stock location in side?

current 33 seems tight. but when I buy new tires I might go for a 34 after leveling kit.

 

take a bit of work but I fit a 37 in the stock location. if you plan on using a 37 I will share the process

 

what you said is also misleading if not incorrect. if you wanted to be brief just say.

make certain to use a Load Index 113 or higher.

fwiw, i doubt any C rated tires do but plenty of D rated tires will work just fine.

 

what alignment specifications do you run to achieve the highest milage out of your tires and how do you compromise that against running the spec for having the best handling ?

reason I ask is I have always tuned alignment for best handling and never worried about the impacts to long term wear. same holds true for air pressure since psi is a critical factor in handling.

fwiw, I find raising the front and dropping the rear a couple of psi under the Load & Inflation tables pressures mitigates under steer or push as much as you are going to get out of a tires compound and structure.

 

How is it invorrect? If you only use E rated tires you are very unlikely to get a tire that doesn't have enough load rating, unless you go crazy and are running 20" wheels or larger.

 

“it is misleading advise if not incorrect.”

context and reading comprehension required to note the subtly of the statement. but OK, I’ll play.

it is not correct to state that load range E are required. many load range D tires are adequate for the Excursions GVWR

 

lets forget for a minute that I have done tire testing professionally for several major manufacturers and have personally tested at least 2 dozen different tires on the Excursion to gain my working knowledge of its suspension, steering,handling and explain your statement or why you make it. I am genuinely interested.

why do you recommend only E rated tires ?

 

Because it's simple, and easy to remember. Sure some D rated tires have enough load capacity but you have to pay attention, D rated tires aren't nearly as common either.