Alright guys so im going to doing some upgrades with in the next week-two weeks im doing more performance upgrades then anything but since im spending some money i want to look into a leveling kit for my excursion. i know everyone says to get some factory leaf springs but ive seen some companies have add leafs and such. Also i am looking to try and tighten up the steering wheel think dual stabilizers will help? or is a lost cause for the old girl?


But for those who ask about the performance upgrades

going with
Swamps 200cc/200%
Garret 38r
Regulated fuel return
reflash of my ts

Im also ordering OUO traction bars just deciding whether to do flipped u bolts or not but it dosnt seem like it makes a difference?


But suggestions are welcomed

 

What's the plan for your transmission? Because it's not going to hold the power you'll be making at all, neither will the torque converter. The stamped steel cover will flex hard, and the studs will obliterate the lock up. Not that I know from experience of anything...

As far as AAL's go, avoid them if possible. They WILL sag prematurely, and since they force the rest of the pack to conform to their angle they also wear out the rest of the springs.

Steering stabs are a bandaid fix when used to rectify an existing problem, all they do is mask it until they, too, prematurely wear out. Find the source for the loose steering and fix it, then add dual stabs afterwards.

 

How many miles does your Excursion have on it? How big of tires are you trying to go with for the lift kit? What other maintenance or modifications have been done?

 

Truck has 137xxx on it. Tires are stock size I just wanted to have it be level but after thinking I'll probably just spend that money on head studs. As for trans it has a warranty so I'm going to gamble my chance and if they don't fix it I'll have to

 

Why stud the heads? Keep the boost below 45psi and you'll be perfectly fine with the stock configuration. That and the trans isn't going to care if you're studded or not, it'll let go long before the TTY head bolts stretch.

You really need to consider the transmission, if you blow it apart hard enough you can cause some serious damage to the rest of the truck. While I don't think the 4R deserves the reputation it has as a weak sh**-box of a slushbox, throwing the amount of power you're going to be making WILL result in an untimely demise... Not trying to talk you out of upgrades, but the attitude of 'oh well it'll sort itself out' is ridiculous and somewhat irresponsible, considering what can happen if it grenades. Just MHO, and I'll leave it alone now.

 

Then what would you suggest for doing to the trans?

 

Forgot to ask earlier, what are you planning on doing for oil? Stock HPOP isn't going to cut it very well with those things... I have 238cc 80%'s and while the HPOP gets by in lower tunes, the instant I run into 5 or 6 the ICP can't be held at the desired 3000. It spikes to 2900 before falling off and holding at 2200. Just something else to consider.

This is where it can get slightly convoluted... None of this is intended to come across as an attack, insulting, or disrespectful mind you. Just wanted to clear that up first since this is the Internet and things don't come across as intended sometimes.

What do you plan on doing with the truck after the upgrades? What made you decide on 200/200's? Are you planning on doing anything to the fuel system to make the injectors work optimally? You can have the biggest nozzle you can find, but in the end the stock fuel system can only provide so much so you'll be wasting the potential, and mine as well go smaller overall to something more realistic, yet meet the same goals.

Transmission wise, at a minimum - billet converter and a quality valve body or shift modifier. However this doesn't address the input shaft, intermediate shaft, clutches, direct drum, OD planetary, etc... Personally I went with a PI Stallion triple billet stalled at 1700, and a Transgo Tugger HD2. I wanted a more involved work over of trans shift strategy and overall holding and apply power, plus the converter is one of the best out there that fit my budget ($1011 shipped with a 20% military discount). I've got the entire parts list for my build, if you're interested shoot me a PM and I can send it your way. It's not just a concoction of my own design, it's a tried and true build.

The only reason I'm pushing you to look at the trans, is when I put in the 238/80's, it started slipping like crazy when I'd lean on it. Once the 38R went in and the tunes were updated, if I go anything over 1/2 throttle it's just a waste of time, even trying to pass on the freeway has to be planned... There is no more just punch it and pass. Actually, there is no more punch it period - it just slips and bangs into gear. Normal throttle and driving is fine, however. I'm not the only one that's upgraded engine components and the transmission has paid the price either.

In the middle, HD4R100 with the converter and VB upgrades I mentioned in the previous paragraph.

At the max end of the spectrum, there's the JW Towmaster at a nice $5000. My build exceeds the ratings of that trans, but I had a few hookups on prices across the board, my total cost including donor trans has been $33-3400, I'll have to find the receipts for all the parts to verify. I also have the skills and help of Roland, who's build I am duplicating - so my labor charges are substantially less than a shop.

My point is that you can't go throwing all that money into go-fast parts without addressing what takes that power and actually applies it into going fast. You also run the risk of them not warranting out the trans since you're modified, and at that point you'll be substantially so. My F250 grenaded the intermediate shaft and it blew a hole through the case, ripped a chunk out of the trans tunnel, and seized the driveshaft up so hard it pretzeled it and locked the rear end up.

It's kind of like buying and building a quality audio system... You can get all the components and speakers and wires for a good price, but when you look at powering everything you find out the amps are four times the cost of the speakers.

Personally I fail to see the point in upgrading to big sticks and a better turbo, when you can't safely and reliably use any of the power it'll make. Making a diesel fast and reliable costs substantially more than a gasser...

 

^^^Matt is exactly right on all points above^^^

DO NOT build the engine first. Build the transmission first, then build the engine. The wimpy stock torque converter (single disc, stamped front cover and miniscule center bearing) did not even hold up to the 85HP tune I was running on stock sticks and stock turbo for more than 2 years. The torque converter gave out and sent metal chunks all through my tranny. Ended up costing me $3500 for a new HD tranny and a HD torque converter. Upside is I am now ready for upgraded sticks and turbo, but it wasn't on the timeline I planned (see: $$$ not saved up yet, but forced to do it anyway). You don't want to be in that boat, trust me. It will happen far from home or on the way to something important.