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With a trailer like that, I wouldn't use anything less than a Hensley or Pro-Pride for a hitch. A trailer that size can decide to put you upside down in a ditch under the wrong conditions, you want as much control as possible.
One of our regulars has one and I'm sure Tom will be along to comment since he tows long and heavy regularly.
Thanks Eric.
I totally agree, that is a huge trailer, not only super heavy (expect very high tongue weight on a toyhauler) but TH trailers are also taller than TTs most times and that means they catch more push from crosswinds.
The Hensley Arrow and Pro Prides are the absolute top of the line hitch systems on the market, and are priced accordingly. I found a great deal on my used Hensley on Craigslist, so there are deals out there for a patient shopper. Don't skimp on your hitch with that giant TH and your short wheelbase EX.
What does the sticker say on your EX's hitch? You'll have to come up with a plan to address how you are going to deal with the tongue weight that is several hundred pounds over your hitch rating. Something that you really need to think about.
Did you replace your trans cooler along with the new trans? It should always be replaced after a trans failure and the 7.3 had a small cooler from the factory, the 6.0 cooler is a nice upgrade for the earlier diesel trucks.
The Jasper trans should do just fine with proper use and care.
looking at your mods you are well on your way. 35' !!! Dang that's a Big A** TT. I just read this "and would tow quite a bit through the mountains". You will surly be looking at gears & BRAKES .. 4:88's is were you should start I would think.
OP has a Diesel Excursion. Gears do not work the same as they do not rev as high as the Modular motors. 4.10 to a 4.30 is usually max recommendation on a diesel.
Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom
I think you need to think about your receiver hitch rating. At 9000 lbs dry your tongue weight would be about 1350 lbs and and 1950 loaded. (Figure 15% of trailer weight=tongue weight)
That's more than the capacity of the hitch. I think you can upgrade the bolts that hold the hitch to the frame but I think you may still end up short.
Mag Tom is correct. Link below discusses larger hardware is necessary to handle the weight properly. My 99 F250 is rated at 5k/10k WD later models are rated at 6k/12k WD with a hardware size jump. However if you are at 13k then you are overloaded for the stock reciever which is what WE3ZS is getting at.
I would also add a receiver hitch upgrade. B&W makes a receiver rated at 16k lbs with WD. Between that and a Hensley Arrow or something of similar quality you should be fine.
I would also add a receiver hitch upgrade. B&W makes a receiver rated at 16k lbs with WD. Between that and a Hensley Arrow or something of similar quality you should be fine.
Do they make one with that rating for an Excursion? The EX and SD rear frames are different and the hitches are not interchangeable.
[QUOTE=Bently_Coop;15743346]OP has a Diesel Excursion. Gears do not work the same as they do not rev as high as the Modular motors. 4.10 to a 4.30 is usually max recommendation on a diesel.
Do they make one with that rating for an Excursion? The EX and SD rear frames are different and the hitches are not interchangeable.
Yes. You have to call them and it is a bit more expensive. I checked when I was looking for options to tow my fifth wheel with the ex. Was going to go with a tow all but wanted a little more beef in the receiver. I ended up deciding to go with an automated safety hitch when funds allow.
Thanks for all the advice.. still have to get the air bags in and order the trans cooler. I have a Pro Pride hitch on the way (which hurt) .... The receiver is being replaced.. though it had to be special made... I will probably change to 4:10 gears later after I see how the current gears run. ..
You didn't mention what torque converter you went with but regardless I would put a gauge on the trans when you put your new cooler in.
My experience with fords trans gauge is that it pretty much sits in the middle of the range or is pegged at max, research synthetic trans fluid and decide if that makes sense for your use.
Like others have mentioned,
Gauges for tranny temp, exhaust temp, and turbo boost
Air bags in the back plus built in air compressor as an option
Upgraded leaf springs
Better hitch
High quality WDH
08+ tow mirrors
Good tunes should help with the power rather than regearing. Make sure you tow on a good tow tune.
I've towed heavy in the 00 Excursion several times but never in the mountains always on fairly level ground.
I would also add a receiver hitch upgrade. B&W makes a receiver rated at 16k lbs with WD. Between that and a Hensley Arrow or something of similar quality you should be fine.
Not to mention the Propride you just hit will add another 150+ lbs to your tounge, I have one
You didn't mention what torque converter you went with but regardless I would put a gauge on the trans when you put your new cooler in.
My experience with fords trans gauge is that it pretty much sits in the middle of the range or is pegged at max, research synthetic trans fluid and decide if that makes sense for your use.
Another option is a scan gauge. It plugs into the OBDII port. I have one and it tells you precise trans temp, in addition to a lot of other good info, including the ability to read and clear trouble codes. It's a bit on the pricey side, but I am glad to have it.
I recently put in a new transmission (Jasper and yes I know I wish I knew more before putting it in there).
I may have to put in another transmission and am thinking a BTS.
Drive it until you need one (unless you have disposable income) and when you do, another option would be to get a John Wood built 4R100, especially since you're in AZ and John is in Holtville...very close to AZ.
...up to 13000 loaded.
I'm not saying not to go with a rig that big, but you will be over the max limits of your Ex if that loaded number is correct. Seriously consider something a tad lighter.
Nick used to tow his 35' Weekend Warrior and it was too much for the Ex. His family finally upgraded to a dually F450 King Ranch to pull the trailer.
Originally Posted by rlozer
I would be thinking about gears with those tires and that much weight. Probably 4.30's.
Originally Posted by harley4jcs
You will surly be looking at gears & BRAKES .. 4:88's is were you should start I would think.
It's already been addressed by Coop below...
Originally Posted by Bently_Coop
OP has a Diesel Excursion. Gears do not work the same as they do not rev as high as the Modular motors. 4.10 to a 4.30 is usually max recommendation on a diesel.
...but only consider 4.30's if you plan on running a 37" tire or more.
I've been away from the forum for quite a few months. I still have my Ex, but traded my big travel trailer off in February for a diesel pusher motorhome. The Ex is now more of a hangar queen except when we need to tow a car on our aluminum tandem axle trailer.
My daughter lives in Phoenix area and we made several trips to Phoenix from Oklahoma with the 11,000 lb trailer in tow. Our 6.0L (ARP head studs, Banks Exhaust, EGR delete) did fairly well in the mountains except for occasionally blowing off the CAC (Charge Air Cooler) hose. I always felt like one of the strongest suits of our 6.0L compared to 7.3L was the Torqshift tranny--it never gave any trouble and certainly helped on the long hairy downhill runs from Payson to Tempe.
You will need a better receiver hitch for that load. The stock receiver will 'egg out' the hitch pin holes. Can't be avoided. Don't waste time on bigger bolts into the truck frame--that still only raises the hitch rating from 1000 lb to 1200 lb.
You may not want to hear this. From my perspective, the 11,000 lb weight limit is probably just about all I would ever recommend towing behind an Ex. The wheelbase is a bit short for a 35' trailer, especially when you consider axle wrap and other issues.
You will need a better receiver hitch for that load. The stock receiver will 'egg out' the hitch pin holes. Can't be avoided.
The "Can't be avoided" may well be true, but if it is, there is one way to drastically reduce it from happening and that's to use a straight bar pin like this:
But if you're already using a J-bend type pin like this:
....and don't want to switch, then add a clamp like this:
...to the bar just before the bend and it will help keep the bar from ovaling out the hole where the bend would normally ride.
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