Bought the IDI! Starting issues.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,360
Likes: 821
From: Mi'kma'ki
if one is leaking,the others are not far behind.you'll more than likely disturb others replacing one.if you get lucky and stop just the one for a while,it will be short lived and you'll just be chasing your tail with leaks for months.it's not worth it.
amazon and summit sell delphi kits (great quality) reasonably priced for about half the price you found.
amazon and summit sell delphi kits (great quality) reasonably priced for about half the price you found.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 884
Likes: 7
Assuming it failed from age, how far off can the rest be? I replaced all mine, they only leaked intermittently but once is enough when you're in a hurry and the truck doesn't start. Peace of mind is worth 50 to me and type4 kit has plenty of extra pieces.
F250 beat me to it
F250 beat me to it
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
Took a peek at it again - this time with a flashlight, getting dark out.
Seems to be seeping from the ends of the plastic cap.
Is it possible to strictly change the o-rings on just this injector? I really dont want to spend 50$+ on a whole return kit just for one injector. I have both HNBR and nitrile based O-Ring sets available, I'm going to try fixing it with that before the full blown kit. Any input?
Seems to be seeping from the ends of the plastic cap.
Is it possible to strictly change the o-rings on just this injector? I really dont want to spend 50$+ on a whole return kit just for one injector. I have both HNBR and nitrile based O-Ring sets available, I'm going to try fixing it with that before the full blown kit. Any input?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 913
Likes: 7
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
There's no EEC-anything; the engine is completely mechanically run. There's an electonic control for the tranny only.
Does the odometer display a number, just not changing? Or is it blank? Until you get the speedometer / odometer working, don't expect it to shift correctly. The tranny control works off the speed signal from the PSOM. If you have an unchanging number, then the VSS on the rear diff is the prime suspect (or wiring / connector). If no number at all, then the PSOM and/or wiring / fuse to it are suspect. Getting that working MIGHT resolve your shifting issues, but start there anyway.
Do you still have a hard brake pedal? That's your vacuum pump, vacuum lines, vacuum "manifold" (really just a "splitter"), etc. Everything else so "dry" on this truck, I'd bet the lines are pretty hosed (no pun intended...).
Does the odometer display a number, just not changing? Or is it blank? Until you get the speedometer / odometer working, don't expect it to shift correctly. The tranny control works off the speed signal from the PSOM. If you have an unchanging number, then the VSS on the rear diff is the prime suspect (or wiring / connector). If no number at all, then the PSOM and/or wiring / fuse to it are suspect. Getting that working MIGHT resolve your shifting issues, but start there anyway.
Do you still have a hard brake pedal? That's your vacuum pump, vacuum lines, vacuum "manifold" (really just a "splitter"), etc. Everything else so "dry" on this truck, I'd bet the lines are pretty hosed (no pun intended...).
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 913
Likes: 7
There's no EEC-anything; the engine is completely mechanically run. There's an electonic control for the tranny only.
Does the odometer display a number, just not changing? Or is it blank? Until you get the speedometer / odometer working, don't expect it to shift correctly. The tranny control works off the speed signal from the PSOM. If you have an unchanging number, then the VSS on the rear diff is the prime suspect (or wiring / connector). If no number at all, then the PSOM and/or wiring / fuse to it are suspect. Getting that working MIGHT resolve your shifting issues, but start there anyway.
Do you still have a hard brake pedal? That's your vacuum pump, vacuum lines, vacuum "manifold" (really just a "splitter"), etc. Everything else so "dry" on this truck, I'd bet the lines are pretty hosed (no pun intended...).
Does the odometer display a number, just not changing? Or is it blank? Until you get the speedometer / odometer working, don't expect it to shift correctly. The tranny control works off the speed signal from the PSOM. If you have an unchanging number, then the VSS on the rear diff is the prime suspect (or wiring / connector). If no number at all, then the PSOM and/or wiring / fuse to it are suspect. Getting that working MIGHT resolve your shifting issues, but start there anyway.
Do you still have a hard brake pedal? That's your vacuum pump, vacuum lines, vacuum "manifold" (really just a "splitter"), etc. Everything else so "dry" on this truck, I'd bet the lines are pretty hosed (no pun intended...).
Absolutely no number on odo - no speedo reading either.
I've heard of these digiclusters failing, Am I going to need another IDI cluster/PSOM to make this correct? Wish there was a way to read mileage...
I'll check fuses again tonight, I replaced 7 (!) the other day.
Yeah the brake failure is in the previous owners decision to replace the alternator with a single groove pulley...
So no second pulley to belt up to the vacuum pump
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
Yeah the brake failure is in the previous owners decision to replace the alternator with a single groove pulley...
So no second pulley to belt up to the vacuum pump
So no second pulley to belt up to the vacuum pump
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 913
Likes: 7
After that I'll go after VSS in the rear end.
I found an oil change sticker in the corner of the windshield with a faded "295,xxx" miles on it...
Oh dear.
"Doctor, it hurts when I do this....." (or, another episode idea for my cable TV show concept - "Previous Owners Do The Darnedest Things".....) Dude musta had one he!!uva right leg.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
If it's like that with no power boost, then there's probably also a hydraulic issue. Air in the lines, or a leak, or a shot master cylinder. You'll probably find that it'll go right to the floor when you get the power boost restored. Disabling the booster was another fine way the PO masked a likely hydraulic issue.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 913
Likes: 7
If it's like that with no power boost, then there's probably also a hydraulic issue. Air in the lines, or a leak, or a shot master cylinder. You'll probably find that it'll go right to the floor when you get the power boost restored. Disabling the booster was another fine way the PO masked a likely hydraulic issue.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 913
Likes: 7
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