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I have a 2001 crew cab 4x4 with the 7.3L. My question is, how do I know whether or not my Garrett turbo has ball bearings? I'm going to order a wicked wheel 2 and I need to know. Thanks in advance. Here is a pic
That is a stock, journal bearing turbo. It is OEM, and NOT a ball bearing turbo. It is called a "GTP-38" by Garrett. The ball bearing version is the GTP-38R.
That is a stock, journal bearing turbo. It is OEM, and NOT a ball bearing turbo. It is called a "GTP-38" by Garrett. The ball bearing version is the GTP-38R.
Well I went to order the wi kwd wheel 2, and after reading more post about 7.3 surge, my head's in a twist. My surge occurs in overdrive while on a mild incline loaded and trying to maintain speed...that's when I hear and feel a subtle cha cha cha sound and I can't maintain speed with out the auto trans down shifting. I should emphasize that this occurs on slight grades, not in the mountains or anything. My truck has a 6 position chip (I use the +50hp tune for towing), 4in exhaust, and big NAPA air filter in place of the air box/filter (tried that to eliminate my "surge"). I was prepared to order the ATS ported housing until I read a lengthy review of the wicked wheel gen 2 regarding how it eliminates surge better than the Gen 1 and there's no loss in boost. This is obviously a common problem with a chipped 7.3 because there's a ton of post on this, hence my issue...I'm reading too much. I need a diesel mechanic that's knowledgeable about 7.3s and this specific issue so I don't waste my money. Any in the Columbia, SC area? I'm a DIY kind of guy, but I'd like to put the right part on the first time, which means I may need more help diagnosing the issue. Any advice is much appreciated!
Wicked Wheel, aka 95 wheel, doesn't have turbo stall, flows the least, makes squeal sounds, spins up faster (boost starts at lower rpms)
Stock wheel has turbo stall (think turbulence/dead spot in power as it hit certain loads and rpms and flow rates). Flow more air than WW
Wicked Wheel 2, also 4/4 wheel (different but same, yet different) do not have turbo stall and flow more and spins up faster (boost starts at lower rpms) than stock wheel.
I have 95 wheel. It is better than stock wheel as it spins up earlier, providing more power faster at lower rpms. Good for my towing and 35" tires.
Someday I want a WW2 or 4/4 wheel for that extra airflow/boost at higher turbo rpms.
Wicked Wheel, aka 95 wheel, doesn't have turbo stall, flows the least, makes squeal sounds, spins up faster (boost starts at lower rpms)
Stock wheel has turbo stall (think turbulence/dead spot in power as it hit certain loads and rpms and flow rates). Flow more air than WW
Wicked Wheel 2, also 4/4 wheel (different but same, yet different) do not have turbo stall and flow more and spins up faster (boost starts at lower rpms) than stock wheel.
I have 95 wheel. It is better than stock wheel as it spins up earlier, providing more power faster at lower rpms. Good for my towing and 35" tires.
Someday I want a WW2 or 4/4 wheel for that extra airflow/boost at higher turbo rpms.
Does that help?
Did you experience surge before you change the wheel?
Did you experience surge before you change the wheel?
Yes. First, it was late to provide boost, approaching 2000 RPM. Then it seemed in the middle of the "power band" it would almost fall flat, like someone was dragging their feet.
With my larger tires, this put it right in a bad spot for performance for me.
If I'm pushing it now, I can be making 12-17 PSI boost by 2k RPMs. Starts lighting off around 1200 RPM and at 2500 RPM she can be over 21 PSI Boost
She has stock injectors and running a mild tune (about +60hp Economy/Tow)
Here's a snip from that log file.
Not always at those levels, I was in the middle of a WOT run and adjusting speed, which you can see in the data table.
But it is an *example* of what different wheels and minor mods and tuning can do
It has a high pitched, muted "finger nails on a chalkboard" sound to it as it spins up and starts making good boost.
I've had more than one person tell me it is one of the reasons they went with the later version of stock wheel....but I don't recall ever reading that.
Had the same issue with compressor stall ("chuffing"). Ponied up the extra $$$ and went with Riffraff's billet 4/4 wheel and couldn't be happier. Did a lot of other work while I had the top off (turbo rebuild, exhaust, up-pipes, fuel bowl) so can't attest to how much it contributed to the improvement but I am very happy. Figured that it's the original turbo and this is the first time it's been apart in 12 years and 280K miles that it was worth the extra dough for (hopefully) another 12.
The WW2 is well worth the money, I had some surging with the stock wheel, put a WW on when my turbo was rebuilt which corrected that and had me at a max 20PSI boost. My rebuilt turbo blew up recently and when I redid it, I put a WW2 on it and got lower EGTs and a max boost of 25PSI. It spools up fast, sounds good and holds boost very well. No turbo surge, the truck hardly feels like it's working now.
The WW2 is well worth the money, I had some surging with the stock wheel, put a WW on when my turbo was rebuilt which corrected that and had me at a max 20PSI boost. My rebuilt turbo blew up recently and when I redid it, I put a WW2 on it and got lower EGTs and a max boost of 25PSI. It spools up fast, sounds good and holds boost very well. No turbo surge, the truck hardly feels like it's working now.
With WW, AIS intake, and 4" exhaust, And now Dorman uppipes on stock rebuilt turbo, I am hitting 24.6 psi.
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