Hi,

Question for people with more knowledge then me.


From the sounds of it, im pretty sure I have a busted timing chain guide. Not bad considering the cover has never been off. I want to go with a cloyes kit because they are well priced and ive used them in the past in Jeeps.

Do all 5.4L 2v V8s use the same timing chain parts? 1999-2004?

Rockauto list 7 different kits, all starting with the number 90391. They are all listed for different years. Some with sprockets, some without, and some with plastic tensioners, some with cast iron ones.

This kit is listed for my 2004 5.4L (and is said to fit 2002-2004). More Information for CLOYES 90391SH


This kit is listed for a 2002 5.4L More Information for CLOYES 90391SG


There is also a kit that is for 2001 5.4L. What is going on here? Like I said, all have the same part number, just different letters after it. From what I know, they are all the same. I have heard that the iron tensioners are the ones you want, but then why would cloyes put the plastic ones in for the 03-04 kits??

Thank you for any information.

 

Any input? I am going to order the kit for the 2002 with the metal tensioners. I dont see how there would be any differences.

 

Two bits of input here...........

Cloyes makes excellent timing chain components so that's a very good choice of parts!

I'd contact Cloyes directly and ask one of their tech reps---someone has to have a better answer than RockAuto's online catalog.

Please let us know what you discover---it could be helpful to others in the future too.

Good luck with this!

 

Thanks for responding! multiple things have been keeping me busy and preventing me from starting this project.

Yes its kind of a strange question, but I am almost positive there is zero reason for the plastic tensioners besides the fact that ford starting using them in 2002 or so. I just cant see ford making any changes to the timing chain length or how the tensioners and guides mount on the 5.4l 2V. Atleast in the super duty.

I will call Cloyes customer service before I order. Just so strange that they all have the same part number! Also, why would anyone NOT replace all three Sprockets? Its like $70 more and thats a ton of labor to get into the engine that far!

Going to order these three tools. I started working for my dad playing catch up on maintenance on his work trucks. He has about 6 2002-2004 F250 5.4L utility body trucks are nearing 150K miles, so I feel it would be a good investment. And doing this job myself basically pays for the tool.

Anyways, i think this is all I will need:



Extra cam tool is needed, I believe. Thanks for any input, and Ill post back when I have a chance to talk to Cloyes.


PS: Should I go ahead and change the oil pump as well? Only $91 for genuine Ford. Seems like it would be a smart move.

 

Ok what I ended up doing was purchasing the correct kit for my 2004 engine, but I also bought the cast iron tensioners for a pre 2002 truck. Ended up coming to about $10 more then just purchasing the 99-01 kit, but now I have 2 sets of tensioners to compare.








I am almost positive they are compatible. Not quite sure how the cast one seals against the block though. Also got a new ford water pump, fan clutch and oil pump.



Ok according to this they interchange. And the metal ones require no gasket and are stronger. Also it seems Cloyes makes all the timing components for Ford, which is what i suspected.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forum...ad.php?t=92299

 

Ford moved away from the ratcheting tensioner. Due to some over tightening issue found in police cars and race applications when there was very hard acceleration. Either one will work just fine. I have used the plastic ones with no issues.

 

Thanks for following up on this----I love your approach here. Buy more than ya need, keep the rest, send it back or pass it along to a friend in need---much the same way I do most things!

It is a bit freaky mating two metal parts that'll see pressure and not use a gasket or some sort of sealant. Of course if the mating surfaces are machined properly this is very possible but still..............

 

@AAubinoe;
Looks like you are at the EXACT same mile-marker that I am on my '04 5.4L 3v (212K mi). I've been collecting parts for several weeks and 'fretting' over the same issues. The cast iron tensioners that I decided to go with (from e-bay) have a metal gasket about .020" to .025" thick. Interestingly, they are solid metal and cover the entire backside of the tensioner, with one small hole that aligns with the end of that small machined passageway that ends nearest to your thumb in photo 3 above. That hole would roughly align with the small bulge at lower left of the plastic tensioner. Same question. Strange gasket material, just metal-to-metal seal on both sides of the metal gasket! I was wondering if they were more for adjusting alignment of the tensioner plunger against the tensioner arm???


Have you gotten in there yet? And what did you find/decide?


I haven't torn mine down yet, but all parts are in and the metal ones are all 'marinating' in oil, so I plan to start on it probably tomorrow. Best I was able to find out the cast iron tensioners will fit mine, but never expected the thick 'metal' gasket. But I'm a little afraid of using even the slightest amount of silicone gasket material for fear some might squeze inside and contaminate the plunger operation.

 

They ARE compatible. My fingernails are still dirty - and my muscles are ALL still sore from finding out.

The metal gaskets that came with the ones I ordered would not work. (The oil hole in them would not align with the oil supply hole in the head.) The original tensioners didn't seem to have blown gaskets - per se. But there was discoloration on the head surface where the gasket touched. It can still be seen in this photo after I cleaned the tensioner mounting surface with a brillo pad.



The cast iron tensioners just seal metal to metal - but both surfaces are machined very smooth. And any small leakage is all inside anyway. At least a leak won't blow out any gasket material - so it is never going to get worse with use.


The Plunger on the cast iron tensioner fit perfectly in the grove for it in the backside of the tensioner arms.

 

GREAT to here your personal feedback. Even though its a 3V, it looks much the same. I have not started yet, but really appreciate the confidence in going with the cast tensions. Thats a very interesting guide.


I would be careful with the ebay tensioners. All the Cloyes stuff is USA made and well worth the $270 or whatever it was.


Just finished working on another one of my dads trucks, rebuilt both parking brakes with all new backing plates shoes and springs. Seems like another project gets thrown at me every time I finish one. Going to get the timing cover off, and then my old mechanic friend is going to help me swap the chains. Does not seem hard, but dont want to mess it up. Next time will be easier!

 

I am planning on doing the same...replacing guides, tensioners, and phasers on an 05 5.4 3v. I am considering the Cloyes kit with the metal tensioners.

Has anyone installed these and actually put some miles on them? I see a lot of bad reviews on components failing.

 

I'm whittling away at my second thousand miles since completing my Phaser job. I was ALSO scared to death about the reviews you mention. But so far, (that knocking is me knocking on WOOD), I couldn't be more thrilled with the quiet, smooth, performance, and economy. (keeping in mind though - I replaced EVERYTHING, including lifters, roller/followers, injectors, oil pump - everything.)

A good test came the other day when I entered a rural highway adjacent to and simultaneous with a late model Dodge PU - - - -. Just couldn't get my foot to come off the floor till a little over a 100 mph - and it all stayed together!!! Wow. Got that same thrill I got in my high school kid days.

 

Out of curiosity what brand parts could be considered superior to Cloyes?

IIRC Ford's replacement parts are considered very well made and supposedly top quality overall.

 

???? No experience to base anything on, but I've heard (and read) nice stuff about MAHLE. But for price point, seems most choose Cloyes over either Sealed Power or OEM from the Stealership.

 

I am pretty positive all OEM timing chains are Cloyes. (and all OEM transfer case chains are Morse/Borg Warner).

Anyways, finally started working on this thing. I have a few Jeeps, and my dad has an extra Ford Ranger, so really has not been a priority. Just bought my first house and definitely need a full size to fix it up (house was built in 1857!).

Here are some pics from today:



A ton of room to work with no rad or shroud.


Really have grown to appreciate the Ford Modular V8. Really has no parts that I would consider 'weak' (well by 04 they fixed the intake and spark plug issue) and is very straightforward to pull apart. This is a work truck with high miles, and everything is original.

In addition to the timing chains, intake seals, valve cover seals, anything else I should do while im in here? There are two sensors in the valley of the engine, I think they are the knock and oil pressure sensor, should I leave these alone?

I am already doing the water pump, fan clutch, t stat, steering box (redhead), going to remove the pump and reseal it and install new hoses. Also going to throw on new oxygen sensors. ALL motorcraft parts. Want this truck to be good to go for a long time.

Oh and should I replace this AIC valve? Just $70 for an OEM unit. Had one go bad on my Jeep at school and it basically caused me to stall out at every stop sign. Paid $75 for generic at the time! The one on my truck looks kinda crusty.

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