Larry I consider myself to be very fortunate with shops like Dennis Carpenter, Fatman and numerous others within a short drive. I got side tracked with Xmas stuff at the weekend but with a week off between Xmas and New Year the truck should be back together and driving. Can't ask for a better Xmas gift.

 

Making progress. Engine is back together just need my son to stop by and help man handle the transmission back in place. Shouldn't take long to get it back in the chassis once the engine and trans are together. Of course I had to clean things up a little.

Before:



After

 

Interesting numbering scheme on the cylinders "before".

It would really finish off the engine if you got the spark plug wire looms. The wires should go behind the thermostat housing, across the manifold in front of the carb.

Do your self a big favor and put on the generator and the belts before installing, if your stand will take the added weight. How are you going to lift it?

 

Ross, I have those loom brackets in one of the boxes that came with the truck. Couldn't figure out what they were, now I know. Tnx.

As for the cylinder labeling, well I wasn't familiar with the flat head. It soon became obvious when I removed the heads and found TDC on the #1 compression stroke wasn't what I thought it was. All good now.

I used this rig to get the engine and trans out, and will reverse the procedure. The beam is 2 x 4 x .25 wall aluminum and works like a dream.

 

With the front end sheet metal off, doing the belts later won't be a big deal.

 

It doesn't take long at all to pull the front clip. As long as you have 2 people to remove the hood and dog house it makes things so much easier. I put two pieces of 2x lumber across the bed rails and flipped the dog house upside down on them to keep it out of the way.

 

Good looking engine Mike

 

Thanks Pete.

New challenge. When I install the fuel pump it won't seat against the intake. Is it really that tough to get the pushrod seated in the pump arm? Any tricks, or what else could be wrong the glass bowl had a bunch oF crap in it. Could the pump be bad?

 

Turn the crank until the pushrod is down. Then install the pump, no tricks needed.

Crap in the bowl is ahead of the pump, it's from your tank and lines. I'd install a metal-can filter between the tank and pump, and run new lines.

 

Thanks Ross. I figured I would be able to push it down with reasonable hand pressure so I was concerned something was wrong.

 

Also remove and flush the tank. It is probably full of junk.

 

After a great Xmas got back in the garage this morning. Had the battery on charge for a day or two. Hooked it up and the engine would barely crank. Looked at the wires and the positive lead had a cracked battery end. Off to the auto store for a replacement. Hooked that up and still barely turns over. Noticed that the cable at the solenoid was very hot. Too hot to touch. New solenoid on order. The engine will turn over with a ratchet wrench on the crank bolt so there's no problem there. This truck simply does not to want to be rushed.

 

Today's learning experience. A negative ground system requires a negative ground starter solenoid if the solenoid is grounded through the mounting bracket.

Cleaned up the terminals on the old one as best I could and the motor at least spins over now. Not fast enough to fire though.

 

Your local tractor parts dealer (like Tractor Supply, or a Ford tractor dealer) should be able to hook you up with a starter solenoid. The 6V solenoids were used on 9N-2N-8N tractors and are usually available over the counter.

 

I can't think why a solenoid would care about polarity. I assume you have the later style two-wire starter button that sends power to the solenoid? I'm using the stock '52 solenoid on 12v neg grd