body shop
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,350
Likes: 24
From: Maryland
Most shops that decide to do our trucks will put it in a corner and do all insurance work bolt up stuff first. When they do get around to your truck you will upset at the time it sat there or at the parts they lost. You are best to find a retired body man or some to do it as a side job. Watch they dont just fill with putty to get it done.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 337
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From: tinley park
Thanks guys was just trying to figure some things out.i really just want someone to fix the roof rot if they can.I will do the cab corners myself and repair the door skin. Maybe around 700 tops if that's possible
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 337
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From: tinley park
Thanks ax I am willing to teach myself how to do the body work but just do t feel confident in reaping the roof rot
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FTE Legend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 283,988
Likes: 8,397
From: northwestern Ontario
I had roof rot too, just have to do it in small sections.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 337
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From: tinley park
http:// http://s1309.photobucket.com...ddude/library/
So if u look at the photos you will see what I'm talking about not being confidant about repair of the drip rail and the passenger side roof rail where it meets the top of the door frame
So if u look at the photos you will see what I'm talking about not being confidant about repair of the drip rail and the passenger side roof rail where it meets the top of the door frame
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 831
Likes: 16
From: sacramento
Check earl schweib and Maaco. They do cash real price jobs, they are know for doing budget jobs but can do nice work for you and will give you a price up front and stick to it. Plus it will be in and out in a timely matter. I will be using them for future projects, I would even go there for a 15k rust repair and paint job for a 69 mach 1.
Everyone else only wants to work on insurance jobs where they can charge crazy labor rates and part prices. They probably inflate the job 3 times...
do not take it to a place that might have an attractive hourly rate but just wants to charge as you go.
I bought a bunch of materials did a lot with a friend that I was paying an hourly rate, then got burned out 1/2 way through then paid the neighbor next door to do a finish up job, he did good but did not lay the paint down nice. Anyway I am about 4k into a 15 footer satin black paint job at the end of the day. I learned a lot which was nice but maybe the most important is to just take it to the pros to begin with
Everyone else only wants to work on insurance jobs where they can charge crazy labor rates and part prices. They probably inflate the job 3 times...
do not take it to a place that might have an attractive hourly rate but just wants to charge as you go.
I bought a bunch of materials did a lot with a friend that I was paying an hourly rate, then got burned out 1/2 way through then paid the neighbor next door to do a finish up job, he did good but did not lay the paint down nice. Anyway I am about 4k into a 15 footer satin black paint job at the end of the day. I learned a lot which was nice but maybe the most important is to just take it to the pros to begin with
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
roof repairs are relatively complex labor wise simply because of the number of panels that come together at that point. The picture link doesn't work but to be honest I think 700.00 is pretty low estimate. Average pro shop time is 100./hr so that would cover less than a day's time. This may be hard to hear, but IMHO you'd be way far ahead financially to locate a rust free cab from the SW and have it shipped in. you should be able to find one for your 5-700.00 and ~ 1K to ship it, but you'll spend that for patch panels, bondo, welding rod and gas. Fortunately all cabs 48-52, F1, F2, F3 are all the same. I'll bet you have a lot more hidden rust in the substructure behind the cab corners, door bottoms, around window openings all where no patch panels are available, plus floor, cab mounts, etc if you have roof rot.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,096
Likes: 656
From: Brentwood, TN
The pics of the roof don't look too bad, definitely seen worse that have been revived. If you can do the repair on the cabs corners, then you should be able to handle the roof as well. The repair panels can easily be shaped over a piece of pipe to get the right curvature. Welding in that area is not so bad since the curve of the roof panel helps hold the shape from warping under heat.
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 87
Likes: 2
From: Chicago
I may have the right guy for you
He is at 31st and Homan and use to restore exotic cars. He did two of my trucks a 1948 F5 and just this week a 1997 F250. He is reasonable, old fashioned, and could use a few bucks right now. Send me an email at brian.enright@3ccomp.com and I will send you his phone number.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Finally got the link to work. mea culpa! For some reason I had it in my mind you had an F1, not a 56 F100. Fortunately most of the 56 panels are available including the drip rail and even a fiberglass glue on roof skin. Also one of our members here has recently posted about a replacement fiberglass roof with the drip rails and the area under the "forehead" over the windshield being produced by a company he works for. Now that I can see it I agree with Charlie, your roof is not that bad and is repairable There are round holes in the roof that were likely from marker lights of some sort, the likely source of the moisture that rusted your roof. Sorry again.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 337
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From: tinley park
Thanks no need to be sorry ax,I should have stated it in the beginning.lol.Ok so let's say I get the courage to tackle this how would I start repairing the space on top of the door,should I cut the old seam that spilt and then just weld a peice from the drip rail to the roof??and with the drip rail do I have to cut out the doubler behind the windshield or can I just try and cut what I can out and just weld a pices in small sections
Thanks dan
Thanks dan
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