I am looking for a caliper bracket for a 77 f250. It has a slide key that holds the caliper in place, it is a dual piston caliper.

 

D8TZ-2B292-A (replaced D6TZ-2B292-B & C) Right & D8TZ-2B293-A (replaced D6TZ-2B293-B & C) Left .. Brake Caliper Anchor Plates / Obsolete

Applications: 1976/79 F250 4WD & 1979 F350 4WD with dual piston caliper disc brakes.

No Ford dealer or obsolete parts vendor has any.

 

just drill t and re-tap it.

 

what is everyone swapping them out with?

any tips on removing them, they are seized up pretty good

 

Are you saying the caliper is/was seized up on the bracket? Clean off the rust and grime on the bracket (top and bottom) and on the caliper contact area.

Then come install time use a small amount of antiseize compound on the contact areas and the bolt.

 

So this is what happened, I had the truck towed to my house because it has no brakes. When I started to break it down to inspect the brake issue, the bolt that holds the key in place sheared off. Drilled it out and snapped the ez-out off in the bolt, this is what has lead to the caliper bracket removal. I may be able to reuse the brackets that I have if I can get them off to work on them. The first pic is as far as I have been able to get, so any tips for breaking it down any further are greatly appreciated.

Previous owner replaced brake lines to the rear, I have ran my new lines for the front. Just trying to figure out this bracket and key issue so I can put it back together.

 

You need to remove the spindle...part # 3105 1st... PITA. You can use the very large rubber mallet or a piece of 2 by 4 (starting on the top of the spindle and work you way around) and a 5 lb sledge.

DO NOT DAMAGE THE SPINDLE NUT THREADS OR WHERE THE INNER WHEEL BEARING SLIDES ON.

There are some folks that use a gear puller pulling on the spindle nut, but you will be pushing against the end of the axle shaft...you might be able to brace the axle shaft with something going thru the axle u joint?

I feel your pain on breaking an ez out. Except mine was in a head, when working on exhaust manifold bolts. Hang in there.

 

If and when you get that caliper bracket off, maybe bring it to someone to fix it for you? Spread that misery around

And then use anti-sieze on everything!

 

Using a Dremel and a very a good steel cutting bit, add in lots of patience you might be able to get the broken piece of easy out removed? And not have to do all the spindle removal. And or then take it to a machine shop ect...

Then retap the threads or step up in size? Helicoil as a option. But since it is an very important bolt, I like the idea of torqued directly into the caliper.

 

Since I just went throught this same thing with the removal of my caliper brakets. Take a torch and heat where the spindle meets the bracket and the spray your favorite penetrating oil. I did this a few times and then after 2days of letting it soak a small 2lb sledge altenating blow on the caliper bracket. I actual used a wood block at first, then just the calipe bracke where I would damage anything. Hope that helps.

 

Thanks for the help guys, it will be a day or two before I get back at it. I will let you know how it goes.

 

I ran into the same problem, someone had broken a bolt, removed it, then welded and re-tapped the hole. I actually had the key and spring fall out driving down the road. That made some noise. Go here and see if this is an option, I considered doing it myself.

https://lugnut4x4.com/product/dana-6...onversion-kit/

I know, Chevy parts and the calipers are single piston, blah blah blah. Something to think about.

 

There are various lubricants and compounds that are specific to their automotive applications. For instance, automatic transmission fluid and gear oil are both oils (lubricants) but, you wouldn't use gear oil in an automatic transmission because it's not designed for that specific application or task.

Anti-seize is designed for static components such as bolts, nuts, pipe threads, flanges, etc. --things that don't (or shouldn't) normally move.

A floating caliper is a moving device, since it moves outward as the pads and friction surfaces of the rotors wear down.

There are various formulations and types of anti-seize. Some have petroleum-based additives in them and some don't. Either way, it isn't designed for caliper slides. Wheel bearing grease (particularly petroleum-based) isn't a good thing to put on caliper slides either.

Any caliper slide lubricant should be silicone-based and not petroleum-based. Petroleum-based lubricants will cause the piston boots of the calipers to swell, if the grease falls off the caliper/caliper slides and onto the boots.

This will cause the boot to peel away from the piston. This, in turn, will let moisture and grit attack the piston seal. If the petroleum-based grease gets past the boot and onto the caliper seal, the seal will swell and the brake caliper itself will fail.

There are various caliper slide lubricant products on the market for this specific purpose and they are all synthetic lubricants, not petroleum.

Ford has a TSB out on using synthetic brake caliper slide grease and to NOT use petroleum-based lubricants on them.

TSB
98-5A-13 BRAKES -DISC BRAKE CALIPER SLIDE GREASE - NEW SPECIFICATION -*SILICONE BRAKE CALIPER GREASE AND DIELECTRIC COMPOUND ONLY TO BE USED*
BRAKES - DRUM - SHOE-TO-BACKING PLATE LUBRICATION - NEW LUBRICANT MATERIAL*
BRAKES - PETROLEUM-BASED LUBRICANT MAY CAUSE SWELLING OF RUBBER PARTS - SERVICE TIP*
LUBRICANT*- SILICONE DIELECTRIC COMPOUND - NEW APPLICATION -*SILICONE BRAKE CALIPER GREASE AND DIELECTRIC COMPOUND*

Publication Date: MARCH 18, 1998*


This is the synthetic caliper slide grease I use (purchased at O'Reilly's). VersaChem Synthetic Caliper Grease and Brake Quite, part number 26080.

 

Thank you for the information.

 

You are welcome, sir.

P.S. At one time, I used to use anti-seize on caliper slides, because I didn't know any better.