A good friend of mine who has a shop is letting me borrow his new Snap-On scanner which I hope will work. It's the newest top of the line scanner.

 

Found my problem of power loss it is the EGR valve.

 

Thanks for reporting back. What was the code or how did you narrow it down to the EGR valve?

 

No codes set, had a snap-on scanner hooked up while driving, showed EGR was not opening.

 

Was reading this thread a few days ago, knowing I was about to pull my Toyhauler through powder pass in Wyoming. I hooked up my torque pro app on my tablet in the truck and watched the boost/EOT/Coolant temp, EGT's. Ambient temp in Buffalo WY was 93 degrees. I had already been pulling since Wall, SD in 105 degree temps. The engine was good and heat soaked at that point. The first 6% grade resulted in EOT up to 242 degrees. I stopped and let the truck idle the oil temps down to below 200F.

The truck de-rated as designed at 242 degrees. The boost would jump, then the waste gate would open and drop the pressure down. Additionally the engine fan clutch would engage once coolant temps reached 220 which sounded like a jet engine at 2000+rpm. I stopped at the summit as well and let the truck cool down to ambient temps again by idling.

The boost gauge at the summit was reporting an even -2.5lbs of pressure. I was very impressed with the truck. The engine brake worked perfectly on the descent and saves the brakes from cooking.

I think torque pro has a code for the EGR valve operation so I'm going to watch that as well now. No where near as good as IDS, but also a 30 dollar investment vs $4000+.

 

While, I thought I had my power loss problem fixed with replacing the egr and egr cooler. Come to find out that was only part of the problem. What was the real problem was the oil cooler. It was clogged, causing the engine oil to get to hot and causing the eng to go into limp mode.
Took the truck to two Ford dealers and neither one could find the problem. You would think a dealer would have known .
Final took the truck to an independent shop and explained my problem, they took it out for a drive and when coming back they said your oil cooler is plugged and needs to be replaced. Why could a Ford dealer not tell me this, it's their truck.
Took the truck out for a drive after their repair and the problem was fixed.
Ford should have some kind of warning light or a message pop up when this problem arises or inform the dealers to this problem, instead of getting an ( I don't know answer). Instead you on on your own to figure what is causing limp mode.

 

what is the interval for your oil changes and what type of oil are you using.


There have been very few oil cooler issues with the 6.7. Rare indeed.

 

How does an oil cooler become clogged?

 

One thing Ford did right on this engine was to mount the oil cooler in an easily accessible location. On the 6.0, you had to remove the turbo and intake to access it. It was a SOB.

 

I bought this truck about two months ago, so I am asumming the prior owner did not Change oil on a regular basis. And as for the oil cooler being easy to get to is correct, but the cooler is bolted from the inside of the oil pan, so you have to drop the pan to unbolt it. Nice design!

 

actually they changed that. no need to remove the pan any longer.

 

I think if I found my oil cooler was plugged up, I would be concerned about the life of my bearings.

 

In reading through the thread, it seem everyone was using cruise control while on a slight grade. Several had a slight raised temperature! Me too! I was in Wyoming, with my 2011 F-350 Dually 6.7. Same thing happened. I was using cruise control in an area of rolling hills with some average 1 to 2 mile grades. Total power loss. Pulled over and let truck sit for a few minutes, then it restarted and we continued our trip. Called the dealer, who said don’t use cruise control on grades. Never used cruise control again on grades, never had another problem.

 

using cruise control on grades is not the issue for a loss of power.


Service advisor does not know what he is talking about. I use it all the time with no issues pulling 15-16K.

 

Welcome to FTE!

I've pulled my bumper pull toy hauler into Wyoming, but not into the steeper Wyoming mountains (14 going west out of Dayton, for example). So I've only been on cruise control on the rolling hills. In Colorado most of the passes are too winding to use cruise control.

I don't see how cruise control itself could cause overheating. But if it works for you, great!