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Did my power brake conversion finally. Took it out for a test drive, pressed the brake like I would with my manual brakes and almost found out if my head was harder than the windshield . I didn't think there would be that much of a brake difference. I like it, works great.
Got the parts from a 71' F250 2X with drums on all for corners.
It sure is nice having the confidence in stopping power, isn't it? I know what you mean about the shock on the first try of the pedal. I was amazed on my first test run. I have had mine done now for a week and the rush hour traffic is no longer a stressful ride as before.
Way to go!
I still need to put in a proportioning valve in (way to much rear brake), but yes, it is real nice being able to stop quickly with a little push of the peddle.
I don't think there is a way to convert my drums to disk with a closed knuckle Dana 44 up front. Or is there?
When I did a search on disc brake conversions, the recommended thing to do was to swap out the entire front axle with a later year, ie 78-79. But now, I figure if I do something like that, I'll look for a Dana 60.
Yes, you got that right. A D60 would be the preferred choice. I just rebuilt my D44. I got it done for just about the right price "almost free". I couldn't pass it up and a D60 is a bit out of reach for me right now.
My drum brakes work great. Even when they were still manual brakes. My mastercylinder was going out so I figured what the hey, I am going to switch it over.
The 76-early 77 highboys had open knuckle w/disc brakes. I just saw a whole truck go for $315 on ebay. Non running and no title.
The best brakes I ever had on a pickup was on a 57 F-350 dually. It had a hydrovac behind the seat. It would plant your mug against the windshield if you weren't very judicious with the pedal pressure. And all with a single system master cyl. and drum brakes. A lot of the drum brake installation procedures have almost been forgotten but I had the shoes arced when the drums were turned. This means they shape the shoes to make full contact with the drum. I also used velvet touch brake linings when I had the shoes relined. This was an old trick to make drums grab better. I also had them on my 1970 Harley FLH and it would slide the front tire with a mechanical drum which is almost unheard of.
One other note on drum brakes, if you buy over the counter shoes get the cheapest ones. They are usually bonded instead of riveted. I think they actually work better but the main reason is you don't get those rivet grooves in your drums. If you are doing an F-250 remember to drive out those little anchor pins before you turn in your cores. The new shoes usually don't come with any.
Yes, I hear you on the rivet issue. I have tore half of the pad off twice with the rivet style. I went with the bonded style and haven't had a bad issue yet. I even use the non metallic ones. The replacement drums for the front are way to exspensive.
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