All,

My e350 has a c6 that the previous owner put a tranny cooler in.

I've got it apart and want to make sure they did it right.

I want to make sure the fluid is going into the radiator first and then into the air cooler (aftermarket) second, right?????

Which is the feed line from the tranny and which is the return. I've got one line that connects almost at the rear of the tranny (drive shaft side) and one kinda in the middle more towards the engine side in the middle.

Thanks!

Dave

 

Front fitting on case goes TO the cooler and returns to the rear fitting on the case

 

Thanks I think that is how I have it.

Few other questions for anyone out there.

1. should the tranny pan gasket be installed with any rtw or just the gasket?

2. Should I use tefflon tape on any of the tranny fittings? Ie the cooler lines that go from the tranny to the radiator. I'm replacing these due to the fact that they are rusted and leaking.

Thanks

Dave

 

If you use a sealant such as RTV, DON'T GOOK IT UP!. Go real thin, but be sure to go around the outside of the pan bolts. Some people use permatex, others use 3M, and some mfgrs just recommend using the trans oil as a sealer. Back in the day, I used permatex because it is used for seals that are not meant to be permanent, and it doesn't harden, and it holds the gasket in place pretty well. Whatever you use, it doesn't have to squish out because the gasket should be doing the sealing.

Teflon tape the same...you don't need a whole lot, and don't block the fitting. I think its a good idea to use teflon tape as a preventative measure, but its not usually necessary.

 

Great, those are my thoughts as well, just wanted to make sure.

Now just to get the new tranny cooler lines bent up. I think they are single flare? My lines only have about 10 bends in them each. Sound like fun. Nobody sells the pre-made lines and I can't find anyone to make them. Looks like I'm going to be making them on my own.

Any suggestions on this?

Thanks

Dave

 

Go to your local Autozone or Advance Auto, and you should be able to find the fanciest of tube benders for about $10. If you don't have a cutter, get one of those, too, at about $6. Flaring tools vary from $10 - $30. Get some clamps and neoprene, too. Sounds like a fun job that should keep you busy for several hours.

 

Yes, Thats what it sounds like I'm going to have to do.

I've already got a nice bender and cutter, I'll just need the flareing tool.

Do you know if the flares on the tranny lines are single or double flares? I think they are single.

Sounds like a night of really **** work.

Thanks again

Dave

 

Double is nice if you're working with neoprene, but not mandatory. I recently flared a tranny line at a neoprene joint with a single. If you're going directly into the transmission, it will most likely be single (PS - Dont forget to put the nut on before you flare). I would venture to say the same for your cooler, unless the lines in and out are neoprene, then they would fit into an already double-flared fitting on the cooler.

 

Great,

Ok so the double flare where you attach a hose is just to help hold it on?

I think they are all single flare and I'm going to try and do it with all metal lines. I will have one metal to rubber where I'm attaching the aftermarket cooler.

Thanks again...

Dave

 

There are many types of pans out there. Some are stiffer, some are cast, some are tin, some have sealing bulges between the pan bolt holes, and on and on... In fact, new style transmissions of today are now usung either "only" silicone(rtv) or have reusable pan gaskets that limit the amount of torque you can put on the bolts. So whatever you do this time on your pan, may not be what you do on your next trans. I have found that on the C-6, the first thing you have to do is address the pan itself first. Take the pan and put it over a vise. Open the vise where the bolt hole stays in the middle of the opening of the vise and the two vise jaws are in the middle of the centered bolt hole and the next bolt hole. Take your hammer and smack it good. The idea is, you are raising the area of the pan between the bolt holes. It'll look sick, but it's gonna seal now. Don't put anything wet on the pan gasket, including RTV or permatex. Rather make sure the pan rail and pan are alchol dry (brake clean same thing). Now the cork gasket will compress like it's supposed to. Neoprene gaskets like the same treatment. Works for me!

 

I won't labor the point, Usta, if it works for you, and the whole idea is to be sure the pan does not leak, then its a good thing.

I'd also agree you'll need to pound out and level any obvious surface anomalies in the pan. But with a good pan, or a new replacement, I'd be reluctant to start pounding. I think 30 ft. lbs on each bolt should be enough to secure a good seal with a bead of tranny fluid on the gasket under normal conditions. I'm also assuming a thorough cleaning of the gasket surfaces. This is a good ol' C-6 which is a relatively problem-free tranny.

If I was involved in OFF ROAD or 4-WHEELING, my concern about leaking would be greater, and I would opt for some after-market pan rails.

There is a lot to be said for different people using different methods to achieve the same goals. My methods are definitely not the only methods.