In taking the starter in and out several times I have noticed a few chipped teeth but the new starter drive never just spins when I put the key in (the old one had begun doing it.) It either turns the engine or just clicks. I'm sure you are right though it probably should get a new ring gear. I'm just a little afraid to start that project as I am not really set up for engine removal.

One peculiar thing they have both done. When I turn the key and the engine starts to fire but I misjudge and let the key go too soon. The engine will fail to fully start and will get a low groan from the starter that could be teeth against teeth. I have asked about it before but after talking to Joe Smith at the Early Ford V8 Picnic he mentioned that I might be missing a bracket on the back side of the starter that hold up the tail end? I do not have this bracket but I don't have access to my diagrams to see what it looks like.

 

I found the part (maybe) on Macs site. The One place says it is for the 239 and another, under "Applications", says it is for the 226 only but presumably I should have had one of these all along.

Ford - Ford Starter To Oil Pan Bracket - Ford 239 Flathead V8 With Manual Or Overdrive Transmission | 51A-11140 - Macs Auto Parts

 

Mac's is using the original part number.

1A-11140-A (replaced 51A-11140 & 8A-11140-A) .. Bracket-Starter Motor to Oil Pan Bracket / Obsolete

Pic: Scroll down to 11140 / C = F1/F100 / D = F2/F250 / Y = F3/F350

 

You don't have to pull the engine to get at flywheel. Pull the driveshaft, trans, the clutch then you are there .

 

Ok it is confirmed the bracket seems to have fixed the issue. I will replace the ring gear soon but not immediately.

 

I've had this happen a few times on my '52 since I've owned it. Mine has the bracket on it, too - but something isn't quite right, probably a "spot" on the back side of the ring gear somewhere. One thing you can do to "un-stick" it, is put the truck in high gear and rock it back and forth a bit. You'll hear a "clunk" and then it will be "fixed" until next time it happens. Mine can sometimes go years without doing it. - Bob

 

I am having a problem with mine all of a sudden.

Pulled it and looks ok during bench test, put it back in and it still just trys to turn but cant, can turn engine by hand so its not locked.

I jump direct to the starter and noticed a spark in a random place on the motor like a short.

Tested the starter down to ground ohms test and it failed that, do they go down to ground?

It is a 12v neg earth setup but original 6v starter which has been working fine until I gave it a decent run up the road and back.

 

John, I offer this as reference when you decide to rework your cables.. it's info I gathered when I wired my truck....it might give you some ideas...the first couple of pages is about the battery cables, the rest is general truck wiring I did

https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/wiring/wiring.htm

good luck
john

 

These two statements lead me to believe it is a grounding issue.

Yes, the starter housing should be at ground.

 

If the sparks you saw came from the area of the rivets on the commutator end of the starter, then you may have an insulated brush holder that is "shorted to ground." - Bob

 

Just had a similar problem, bought a rebuilt starter From a national parts house and long story short it had a dead spot on the commutator and would work fine 9 out of 10 times until dead spot on the commutator would stop spinning right under a brush. At that point the starter would not work unless the armature was turned slightly and the dead spot was not sitting under a brush.