Hello, 2002 F350 7.3l manual transmission.

I would like to replace all the u-joints as one of them broke recently and I don't know the condition of the remaining intact u-joints.

Can anyone confirm part numbers? I believe moog parts are the best option -- I don't see anything better available.

I believe the front axles in the knuckles are moog 374, requiring two u-joints.

I also believe the other u-joints are moog 331, and I'll count how many are on my truck before ordering but I believe I'll need six total.

Has anyone done this job before? Can confirm part numbers or give any pointers or tips?

Thanks.

 

One tip is to shove a bit if grease around inside the needle bearings in the cups prior to installation and work it in really thoroughly. The stock supplied lube is soft and very light weight and will let the needles slip out of place during installation, but a shot of heavy grease pressed in around all the needles will keep things together much better while you're pressing the cups into position through the yokes.

 

Thanks, good tip.

 

If you broke a ujoint make sure to inspect the bores on the yoke that hold the cap in place, if they are deformed or chewed up I suggest replacing that yoke as well. The matting surface between the cap and the yoke needs to be a fairly precision fit to hold the joint securely.

Of the parts store variety joints the spicer non zerk fittings are the strongest, aftermarket joints made from 300m and 4130 are available but I suspect your issue was not a weakness failure, more likely it was a lubrication failure that lead to the breakage.

 

When you say other u joints, what ones do you mean? Rear driveshaft should be Spicer 1410, front driveshaft is spicer 1350, front axle shaft u joints can't remember off hand the series

 

I was just under the truck and there are 8 total.

Two in the front between axle and hub. One on each side.

Three on the front drive shaft. One at front pinion, one in middle of front drive shaft, and one at rear drive shaft to transfer case.

Three in the rear -- one at the transfer case, one after the carrier bearing, and one at the rear between the driveshaft and pinion.

The surefire way to know that I am getting the right parts is to disassemble the truck and take the old u-joints to the part store and compare them side by side. Unfortunately due to my location, that is not the cost effective solution.

It's 40 dollars for a single u-joint locally, and they can be delivered to my house for less than 20 dollars. If I can find the right part numbers, I can order them and save a considerable amount of money.

 

Cork my friend,


8 is the ticket and listen carefully to the pirate^^^^ His words are steel!!


If you have a day or two. Order hem Via mail and skip the middle tool. You'll save considerably on whichever namesake you choose to battle with.


Denny