By all means proceed with verifying your oil fill level---that's mighty important at this stage.

Also do the battery disconnect thing then begin your code retrieval thing too.

I'm completely guessing if your 40 mile round trip with assumed lack of oil in the pan didn't cause the engine to seize its highly, highly likely it can be sorted out and run well once again.

Again not too familiar with the limp mode on your van but its entirely possible the TP sensor out of range could send the ECM into that condition.

I'd also suggest visiting the FTE sub-forum for your engine as there will be more than a few who've dealt with these same codes and their causes or fixes.

Hope nothing too serious has happened to your van---hate to know someone is facing considerable repair cost.

 

When you heard the "pop" sound, then checked the oil, I don't think that's a problem, and I'll agree with Mr. JWA that 'just adding 5 quarts' was not a good thing, the 5.8 engine holds 6-1/2 quarts total with oil filter change, so.....there is a good chance that you "over-filled" the oil.

Bone dry on the dip stick would be at least 2 quarts low, or more, but if the oil pressure gauge on the instrument cluster had some reading, your safe.

Your friend is correct that if you disconnect the negative battery post, and I always say for 20 minutes, that will clear all stored codes in the ECU. Yes, the ECU will run in "open-loop" until the engine hits "operating temperature" then go into "close-loop" operation, getting info back from many sensors, and most of the time you'll need to get about 40-50 miles back on the clock for the ECU to start storing codes, and "keeping a log" of sorts on the overall operation.

And.......yes......it's worth it to get an OBD I scanner if you going to keep working on this era of E-series. Someone just posted on another topic that Autozone had one for I thing $29, kind of a "close-out" e-bay is a good source for them also, save a lot of time getting codes, and No mis-reads.

The results of your "popping" noise, and "limping" back home, could be other problems, not the low oil level.

First, if the engine is not running correctly, the E40D tranny will not shift as it should.

Second, your working on a "Free" 1994 *26 year old vehicle* with 314K on the clock, there are going to be some problems with age/mileage on the condition of the sensors, EGR system, and dry-rotted vacuum lines, and what not.......

What you really need to do, is put some time aside and really get into this vehicle, pull the dog house, take off the air duct and start checking all wiring connectors, vacuum lines, and check all the sensors.
Post #7 I gave you the Link for checking the senors.

Your limp ride home could be many things, shorted out plug wire, fowled out plug(s) cracked dist cap, Bad fuel pressure/clogged filter.

You have any idea what the last time plugs/wires, timing set was done on this van??

As I wrote before, this is the '94, 5.8 "roller-cam" engine, very durable, very long lasting, very heavy (460# block) but just one sensor, or EGR problem, fowled plug, shorted plug wire, and they run like _____.
And like any other vehicle, they all need routine maintenance and a little TLC to keep them up and running in premo condition

 

To be honest, I know nothing about this van's history. I do know it was likely abused and I doubt any maintenance has been done in quite some time.

As far as all the things you mentioned, it's quite a relief to here. Yeah I had oil pressure in the normal range the entire time before and after the oil screw up.

I'm gonna drain that oil today and fix that and then pull the battery for a while and see how long it will run in normal mode.

 

Did some oil drainage today, and disconnected negative battery cable for 20 mins. I made this video to show you whats going on. Ive got something spraying out and dripping right near the windshield wipers but I can't see it.

Here's a video where you can see it all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1fO...ature=youtu.be

 

Movie Time........ I like video's. Seen a bunch of stuff going on there.

First, if you cleared codes, by removing the negative cable for 20 or so minutes, the CEL came right back on, and either your temp sending unit is not working *which can cause other problems* or you dash gauge is not functioning. In the video, the temp gauge was pegged to the bottom.

The temperature sending unit has an important function on these engines, when the engine reaches operating temperature, of about 190*, it tells the ECU to go into "closed loop" operation. Other wise, the ECU will preform as in first start-up and stay in "open loop" operation.

Next, question.........did you check the coolant level?? Do you have coolant in the radiator and the reservoir?? Super low coolant will cause a miss read with the temp sending unit (and read above) and with the dripping you showed, you could have a coolant leak.

The dripping, from the top of the bulk head, could be several things, One, the cowl where the wiper linkage is, has a drain hole for rain water to get out, on the right side on the body, like over the heater core, if the drain is plugged with leaves, mouse nest, what ever, then the rain water needs a place to escape, so pull the plastic cowl off, and check that out. The water dripping looked too clear to be anti-freeze.

Pull the air duct out, and check for a coolant line or heater line to be cracked/leaking, check the by-pass hose from the thermostat housing to the water pump, that little hose is my worst nightmare, stump me several times on a coolant leak, just very hard to see a crack on the back side of that little hose
A coolant hose leak, could spray anti-freeze up high, and it's collecting and dripping back down where you see the running drip. Also, you have front and rear heating/cooling, that adds additional lines to the system, for more leaks.

The flashing yellow light on the right side stumped me, until the 3rd time I watched the video.........Air Bag light......
I have cut-away's, we're expendable, and don't get the air bags.......

Ok, now to the real problem........
You pulled codes with the jumper, not really the best way, but do-able.
You got a Code(s) 121, 122, and 128.
121
Closed Throttle Voltage Higher Or Lower Than Expected
121
Indicates Throttle Position Voltage Inconsistent With Mass Air Flow Sensor
122
Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Below Minimum Voltage
128
Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Vacuum Hose Damaged/Disconnected

First, if you have a problem with the MAP sensor, the engine would not even run, trust me, I got stumped last year on that one, the ECU will shut off the fuel pump if the MAP is not giving a signal to the ECU. It will try to start, but will not run without fuel.

Basic's - Internal Combustion Engines run on Fuel/Spark/Compression. Period.

From what codes you pulled, it's only showing a problem with the TPS.
It's not showing any codes for the EGR *and that's a good thing*

From the video, it's showing a problem with acceleration.
I wouldn't really call it "cutting-out".
It's more like it's "Choking-out"

So, I'm going to take a good, experienced, Wildman guest here, and say.......
You have a plugged Cat.

It starts up fine, correct? It idle fine, correct? Light acceleration is fine, correct? But.....under heavy load, or heavy acceleration, it bogs down, Correct??

There is a tester for checking a plugged catalytic converter, I don't have one, but I borrow one from a ASE mechanic buddy of mine

One thing, and cheap way to test for this, is remove the O2 sensor, tie it up, or completely remove it so it don't get damaged, fire up the engine, and Yes, it will be loud, as now you have a major exhaust leak, take it for a ride, and hit the pedal, if it don't bog down as bad, you narrowed down the problem.

If you find that this is the problem........couple of things you can do, if you have emission inspections in your 10-20, then you'll need a replacement.
Last cat I bought, cost me $325, and I'm in NYS, and we have a new law here that's kind of like the CA emissions law.
The good thing is, in NY, anything before 1996 (OBD II) does not get emission testing........and I don't have anything made before that date.

If you don't have emission inspections, then you could straight pipe the cat, or pull if off, and clean it out. Punch out the guts and it will act as a straight pipe per-say, If you do that, do not throw out what you took out, there is platinum in that junk, and that's worth some $$$. Any junk/scrap yard will pay you for that junk

A second problem you might have, is the fuel delivery.
By the way, your gauge shows almost empty........
Running the fuel very low, is not a good thing, the fuel pump will run hot, and cause early failure, as the fuel(gas) helps keep the pump running cool. The pump sits right in the fuel, in the tank.

So, without a fuel pressure tester, which you should really do here, you could have a plugged frame filter? Or the tank filter (sock filter) could be plugged, causing fuel to flow, but under heavy load, for additional fuel, it's restricted, and not getting the required flow.

We had a member here couple weeks ago that had a 'no-start' issue, and after many tests, he went the 're-placement fuel injector' route, and fired right up

I'm tossing out 2 items for your issue, I would look into the plugged cat first, and then into the fuel delivery second.

Hope all this helps???

So, read my loong response, see how far you want to go, and let us know the results.

 

Well that's a long response! Haha but thank you so much for all that info. It that popping noise may have been some stuff getting stuck in the CAT when I was driving and has nothing to do with the oil.

I'm working with a limited budget so I can't really get my hands on all the nice testers and such. I do not have emissions checks here which is a good thing so I can straight pipe if I want

As far as fuel delivery, I was kinda leaning that way at the beginning because before all this, if would still stutter really bad under heavy acceleration. I'll check that fuel rail pressure somehow and I am sure the fuel filter needs to be replaced as well.

As far as coolant, I'll check that today. I noticed the temp gauge being pegged at the bottom. Funny thing is, it will move but only to slightly above the "C".

Glad to know that nothing seems to be wrong with my actual engine or transmission yet lol.

So the van will run without the O2 sensor on the CAT?

 

You had several questions, and I wanted to explain solutions for you

Yes, the engine will run with the O2 sensor removed, will turn the CEL on, but that's on now anyways. The O2 sensor is up-stream of the cat.

With the O2 sensor removed, it will provide a way for the exhaust back-pressure to be released, thus providing a 'quick-test'.
You might even want to replace the O2 sensor when re-installing, check the condition of it when it's out, if it's really carbon'ed up, then it should be changed.

I punched out my '94 cat years ago, to solve a couple problems, later installed a new cat, it ran without a problem with an empty cat, acted like a straight pipe, but it tied in the square flange, and the EGR tube off the top of the cat.

My '92 bogged down on a job road trip couple years ago, and I had to deal with getting it back, when I took the cat off, you could hear like a rock rolling around inside the cat. Figured that the "rock" was plugging the outlet of the cat, and killing the power. That I put a new cat on right away.

I understand being under a budget, but if you Need this van to run correct, then it will need some parts and time put into it, and some TLC too.